Re-handeling a handsaw

[Bill in NL]

I am making a new handle for an old handsaw. Actually the handle is done, mostly. I traced the pattern from the old broken handle, cut it out with a jigsaw, and shaped it with a rasp and drill mounted sanding sleeves. It turned out very well, I think. I made it out of some cherry I had in the shop.

Here's the question; What's the best way to cut the kerf that the saw blade fits into? I was thinking of:

1. clamping the handle to my bench, flat on it's side
2. clamping a peice of scrap that measures half of the handle's thickness right next to it
3. use the scrap as a guide for my backsaw, laying the backsaw on it's side and cutting the kerf horizontally.

Any advice here would be appreciated. I don't want to shag it up, and alignment of the cut to the handle is obviously going to be very important.

[Ed in Oakville]

Hi Bill,

Is the saw blade straight, angled or curved where it sits in the handle? This will determine how you can tackle the cut.

Straight or angled you can use a bandsaw if you have access to one. Set up the fence to be half of the handle thickness from the blade if you doing it free hand. Othewise clamp the handle to a piece of MDF/Plywood and set the fence as previous but include the thickness of the MDF/Plywood.

Or you can use a backsaw or a regular handsaw although the former would be the better.

For a curved or arched blade it will be more challenging. Mike Wenzloff of Wenzloff and Sons uses a thin kerf blade on his table saw but he had it custom ground as he makes saws for a living. Assuming you do not have a table saw blade available, I would still use the a backsaw or bandsaw and cut on a angle to fit the highest point of the arc.

You should also consider holding the handle in a vise (if your workbench has one) has one or a mechanic's vise if going the handtool route. The point being you will have better luck getting the cut straight if you're cutting vertically.

Also important is to use a saw blade (handsaw or bandsaw) with the same kerf thickness (blade thickness and set) as the saw blade you will be inserting. This will prevent any blade movement.

Here is a link to a tutorial that may help you.

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/saws/D-8/index2.html

Best of luck.

Ed

[Bill in NL]

Ed:

Great site, the process is much the same as I went through; the marking, cutting, and shaping, but I don't have a bandsaw or a specially ground table saw blade. The cut does not have to be arc shaped, a straight cut will do. I'm a bit nervous about clamping the handle in the vise and making the cut with the backsaw vertically, because I don't want the cut to wander off course. I'm leaning toward cutting it horizontally, using the backsaw and a scrap guide, almost like a shooting board for a plane. I have two backaws, a 15 inch one (cheap hard point), and an old Disston 30" one, really nice, but needs to be sharpened. If I go out to the shop tonight, I'll take a few pictures and post tomorrow.

I just thought of a way I can do it vertically. I can make a stepped jig, with a flat board and another exactly half the thickness of the handle, then put both in the vise and lay the backsaw vertically on the guide peice, with the teeth resting on the handle. By keeping the backsaw firmly against the guide, I'll keep everything in line. This is hard to explain without pics, I'll post my idea tomorrow.

[Ed in Oakville]

Hi Bill,

I understand your concern about getting the cut straight. I've been making dovetail saws and cutting the handle for the blade is the most challenging part for me. Here are a couple of pics...

I think I understand you plan. If you go this make sure the "sandwich" is clamped/held below the depth of the cut. Otherwise as the cut is made the pressure of the hold may bind the saw blade in the handle.

Good luck.

Ed

[Bill in NL]

Ed:

Those dovetal saws are really nice, great job.

I cut the kerf for the handle last night, and I set and filed the saw. The blade needed needed some gentle persuasion to come straight, it had a couple places with a mild bend, no kinks or anything serious. I ended up cutting the kerf with a backsaw, and put the "sandwich" into the end vise and cut it vertically. It came out better than I expected, right down the middle. I used a digital caliper, and marked the centerline, and drew guidelines for the cut. The backsaw worked out great, but I had to widen the kerf with my other handsaw, the backsaw was too thin for the big old blade. Here are the results. I finished the cherry with two coats of minwax polyshades, to give the cherry a little colour.

[Ed in Oakville]

Great work Bill. I am happy to hear it turned out to your liking. You should be proud you accomplished what you set out to do with the tools on hand. I find the hardest part is just getting started without over-thinking on a task.

Regards,

Ed

[Frank D.]

Yes,
Congratulations Bill! I also have a tendency to run out and buy tools istead of making do with what I have. Way to go!

[derekcohen]

Here's the question; What's the best way to cut the kerf that the saw blade fits into?

Hi Bill

What I do ..

I clamp the rear end in a vise with the section to be cut held vertically.

Having marked the line, I cut the kerf with a backsaw.

This backsaw needs to have a blade of the same width as the blade that will be used. It is important to get a snug fit.

Here is a recent replacement for a 1950s Spears & Jackson 10" crosscut.

Regards from Perth

Derek