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View Full Version : winding sticks and other bench flattening stuff


matt
09-07-2006, 02:36 PM
Ever get the feeling your winding sticks are lying to you?
While flattening my new bench top I regularly check my winding sticks (couple of pieces of angle iron). One corner of my bench kept showing up as being noticably higher than the rest of the top. Here is a rough idea of what I was seeing.
Position B and C line up perfectly. Comparing A and B (or A and C) show that the grey shaded area was high.
1143
So I worked on this area. A B and C now all line up quite well (I might still might bring down A a smige). It just seems to me that I had to take way more off this area than what seems right. I mean the initial lamination was IMO pretty close .
Does this technique sound right?
1. I stand centred with the piece
2. I crouch down to get my eyes co-planar with the top of the winding sticks
3. I then close one eye...

Here is another question.

When you are flattening stock or a bench, do you work on width or length flatness first?

This time I started first by doing 45s and then went on to planing the width. It seems easy to screw up one while doing the other, but I suspose practice will minimize(eliminate? ;)) that.

Frank D.
09-09-2006, 10:45 AM
Hi MAtt,
Seems like you're not doing too bad. I can tell you what I do, but don't forget that while I do some reading, I'm pretty well self-taught.
When I have a high corner I usually work on the opposite corner (the corner at the other and, on the other side...so the diagonal opposite, if you know what i mean) at the same time, at least a little, to even out the difference.
1. What I do first is take down the 2 high corners.
2. Then I make sure both ends are flat across the width and parallel (with the winding sticks) to each other.
3. Once the ends are flat and parallel, I do both long sides, planing lengthwise. Sometimes this means taking out a hump in the middle (so I start with stopped shavings in the middle and increase their length gradually, till I'm taking full length shavings) or else I have to take down wood on both ends because of a hollow (So I start right away with full length shavings right along the edge, gradually spreading them out toward the middle, but I'm still planing lengthwise). If you do this step correctly, both ends will remain flat and parallel.
4. Once I have both ends flat and parallel, and both sides flat (and parallel: if you kept the ends parallel bot hsides will be too), it's usually just a question of taking any remaining hump out of the middle, so I do this planing crosswise (perpendicular to the long sides).
5. Once any hump in the middle is gone, it should be quite flat, so then I just finish with even lengthwise strokes along the whole surface.

Of course it depends on the board, this can vary a little, but that's what I find myself doing the most.
HTH

Darrell
09-09-2006, 11:37 AM
Matt,

Franks methods generally echo my own experience.

Don't forget that you need a straightedge to go with your winding sticks. I find that the combination of the two tools helps highlight where the high spots really are. My straightedge (well, straight-enough-edge anyways) is just a hunk of aluminum bar stock (1/2 by 3 or something).

Darrell

matt
09-09-2006, 07:16 PM
Thanks Guys,
I appreciate the input. And yes, I do use my straight edge quite a bit to confirm my surface if flat. I think I'm almost done. I've got a very mild dip in one spot that a few more passes should even out (I hope). I can't wait to finish this bench so that I can get on to making a few projects!