TS sled

[Mike Lowden]

I want to build a sled for my TS and I'm looking for ideas on how to ensure I get a perfect 90 deg. fence. I'm thinking about 18"x 40" with a piece of square stock (maple?) to run in both mitre guide slots. Should I spring for good Cabinet grade plywood, or would something else work better. Thanx

[bob oswin]

I use MDF for mine as it is less prone to warping.
Consider them disposable.
Bob In edmonton

[Hendrik Varju]

Hi Mike: I used 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood. It is relatively flat in short sections and is very strong. It gives you something substantial to screw into. MDF will work in theory, but it is very heavy and won't hold screws as well. You can buy BB ply in 60" x 60" sheets, which will cost you something like $40 in 1/2".

As for the runners, use any hardwood like oak, maple or beech. Using quarter-sawn stock makes them more dimensionally stable so that they don't bind in the slots in the summer and get sloppy in the winter (the growth rings should be vertical). I would recommend oak just because maple and beech have higher rates of expansion and contraction than oak.

Good luck.

Hendrik

http://www.passionforwood.com

[Gord in Newmarket]

Mike, it seems to me that the sled material is not as important as the runner material. I've used plywood, mdf, and particle board and haven't had a problem with any of them. True, weight can be a concern and screw holding ability is only a concern if you drive screws into it. The one I use now is made out of particle board and if I have to screw into it I use threaded inserts instead.

The largest problem that I see is the constant use of hardwood or plastic as runners. I can't see the point of playing with these tempermental things. I use steel, that's right, steel, the same material that your mitre gauge rides on. No need to worry about expanding and contracting with changes in humidity. These suckers ride true all year round. After all why do you think your table saw came with one for the mitre gauge.

Run on down to your local Metal Supermarket and buy a few feet of the stuff, tap it and use machine screws to fasten through your wooden sled. I personally use 10/24 machine screws for this job.

By the way, the front and back wooden rail of the sled should not be screwed into the sled, the wooden rails should be screwed to the sled from underneath.

[Alberto]

Nice idea Gord!!

Is there any Metal Supermarket in the New Market/Aurora/Richmond Hill area?

Alberto//

[Gord in Newmarket]

Alberto, I think the closest one to you is in Concord, It seems to me thats where I bought it a few years ago. Tell the guys what you want it for and they will help you out. Years ago, and I mean years ago, when I had an old Beaver table saw, I even got 3/16 X 3/4 material for my table saw sled for that saw. That's how long I been using metal runners.Never had a problem since. Good Luck and keep me posted. Gord.

[Mike Lowden]

Thanx, lots of good ideas - I think I'll do the metal runner deal - there's a Metal Supermarket close by. Should I just trust my rafter square for the Fence?

[Gord in Newmarket]

Use a framing square instead and check the square for square before using it. Gord.

[Wally]

Mike -- There is a little trick I use when making sleds and panel jigs. My saw cuts perfectly square so I cut the panel first then position the fence close to the saw blade and use it to position the panel square to the miter slots. I use the polyethelene runners from LV that are quite slippery and easy to adjust. I put the runners in the slots and tack from above when the panel is square to the fence, then you can turn it over and screw it from the bottom. If you countersink your screws then the amount you tighten them determines how tight the fit will be. Then your fence will just align with the edge of the panel. It sounds like a long process but it is actually very quick.

Wally/Calgary

[J.P.Rap (Hamilton)]

Fasten your runners on first. use the distance from the blade to the miter slot and add 1/4". then install the sled and cut off the extra. Your runner and the blade side of the fence are now perfectly parallel. use an accurate square along that edge to set your fence.
Do you know how to check your square for square?
J.P.

[Ken in Regina]

J.P.,

Mike might know how to check his square for square but I don't. I have long suspected that my framing square might not be. I sure would appreciate a tip.

...ken...

[Bryan Cowing, Innerkip On]

If you use an oak runner you can make it ajustable with 1/4-20 T nut. Sand a pocket in the runner so the t-nut does not drag. Apply paste wax to runner.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/010/xN/b4/SN/k786106.jpg

[wayne at the crow]

Ken, to check a square for "square" lay the square on a straight piece of wood, board etc,any thing with a true edge, and draw a pencil line along the blade.Next turn the square over and redraw the line right beside the first mark. The two lines should be exactly parallel. Any difference between the two lines represents twice the error that the square is out. Hope this helps. LoL wayne

[Mike Lowden]

Thanx guys - you've been very helpful. I'm going to try to find time tonight to work on this - My son and daughter both have wiring they'd like done in their homes and that's scheduled for today. THanx again!

[bob oswin]

I used a caulking gun on a slider to hold down difficult cuts and long boards.
I also used MDF so I could sacrifice the material at will when cutting angles and replace same cheaply. The on side of the "KERF" i s screwed on so I can replace it.
I made it 26" wide and haven't need more width - Yet. The little box with the plexi top helps protect me from my inate clumsiness.
Bob in Edmonton

http://www.photoloft.com/view/exportImage.asp?s=fshp&i=8387965&w=256&h=192> (http://www.photoloft.com/view/exportImage.asp?s=fshp&i=8387965&w=256&h=192>)
http://www.photoloft.com/view/exportImage.asp?s=fshp&i=8387965&w=256&h=192>

[Mike King, Sherwood Park,]

Only scared me for a little while. I got 8' of the stuff waiting for my sled, holddown and tenon jigs to be built. I'll be using 5/16 MDF for the base with a replaceable kerf insert. I think it's important to be able to have zero clearance on the sled. I like Harry's holddown idea too.

[Mike Lowden]

The caulking gun is a neat idea - You are definely thinking outside the box.

[Ken in Regina]

Thanks, Wayne. That makes sense. Now, do you have any idea what I can do if it's off a little? Is my only option to toss it?

...ken...

[J.P.Rap (Hamilton)]

After determaning witch way the square is out, lay the corner flat on a pc of steel.Using a pointed punch strike a dimple in the corner of the square. If the square is more than 90deg. -strike it near the outside corner. if less than 90deg -strike near the inside corner.This will make a slight adjustment. Recheck and repeat if nessasary.
J.P.

[Ken in Regina]