Hardwood floor movement

[Pete in the Hammer]

Can anyone tell me if this is a really bad idea: I want to put hardwood (or bamboo) on my basement floor. It has a plywood subfloor over dimple board over concrete. It's a reasonably dry basement in an old house.

Which direction is the wood likely to expand in, and can I lay it in a way to minimize problems? Or should I just forget it?

Let me know if this is too off topic.

pete

[Chris Fournier]

I would go with a floating system for your application. Bamboo would be my first choice.

You could also go with an engineered wood flooring - 3/16" solid over baltic plywood and this could be glued down to your ply subfloor.

Both are very attractive and in the $6.50 to $8.00/sqft. range.

[Pete in the Hammer]

[QUOTE=Chris Fournier;130769]I would go with a floating system for your application. Bamboo would be my first choice.

Thanks for your reply, Chris. What does a "floating system" mean?

Also, why would bamboo be your first choice? We really like that option.

Do you know what kinds of issues there are in having solid wood versus an engineered floor?

pete

[Woody in the Hat]

Bamboo is actually a grass but one of the toughest natural wood/grass products available, which could be the reason for it being Chris' fitst choice. Another reason that bamboo works for this application is how the bamboo flooring is actually made. If you look closely you will see that each piece of flooring consists of several pieces of bamboo laminated together. The way it looks to me is that if this product would encounter movement it would most likely be on the thickness of the flooring rather than the width this is due to the orientation of the pieces.

As far as the floating system goes, the dimple board is an example of such a system. The engineered laminate is installed over a thin layer of foam, not glued down thus it actually floats over the old flooring and/or subfloor.

Solid wood vs. engineered laminates. Engineered laminates may be easier to install, however very difficult to repair and can be damaged by moisture. Hardwood can also be damaged by moisture but can be repaired realtively easily. Scratches and/or gouges in hardwood can be repaired also and if the finish becomes dull you just sand it down and refinish. Pretty hard to refurbish an engineered surface after years of wear, and it does wear.

[Pete in the Hammer]

Bamboo is actually a grass but one of the toughest natural wood/grass products available, which could be the reason for it being Chris' fitst choice. Another reason that bamboo works for this application is how the bamboo flooring is actually made. If you look closely you will see that each piece of flooring consists of several pieces of bamboo laminated together. The way it looks to me is that if this product would encounter movement it would most likely be on the thickness of the flooring rather than the width this is due to the orientation of the pieces.

As far as the floating system goes, the dimple board is an example of such a system. The engineered laminate is installed over a thin layer of foam, not glued down thus it actually floats over the old flooring and/or subfloor.

Solid wood vs. engineered laminates. Engineered laminates may be easier to install, however very difficult to repair and can be damaged by moisture. Hardwood can also be damaged by moisture but can be repaired realtively easily. Scratches and/or gouges in hardwood can be repaired also and if the finish becomes dull you just sand it down and refinish. Pretty hard to refurbish an engineered surface after years of wear, and it does wear.


Thanks for the detailed explanation, Wendall. I did notice the way the bamboo was constructed, and that's one of the reasons I was favouring it for the basement. However, being a novice in wood, I thought I should check with others with more experience, especially because I didn't really understand the implications of that construction.

So, should I instal the bamboo over a layer of thin foam with out nails, or would it be better to nail/screw it to the plywood subfloor?

Thanks again,

peter

[Jason in Sudbury]

I have had success (so far) with a 3/4" maple floor in my basement. The subfloor is 2x4 on the flat with 3/4" ply over top.
I put the hardwood down 2 years ago (2 full winters) and absolutely no issues so far. I do heat that room in the winter (it is our rec room, so I keep it at 72 or better) and I will use a dehumidifier if I see that it gets damp down there.
I also put some felt paper down before putting the wood.


My father had laid down some oak parquet in the house I grew up in and there was just one spot where the floor buckled. But he had installed a monster of an oak bar over top the flooring and I think this contributed to the floor buckling.

[Pete in the Hammer]

Thanks, Jason. That's worth knowing. I do heat the basement in the winter, and may run a dehumidifier in the summer.

peter

[Lee Brubaker in Edmonton]

If you favor the bamboo, you should check with the supplier as to install procedure. If it is of snap lock design there is no need for fastners & that being the case is a "floating floor" & the foam under pad comes in several grades is purchased seperately & depending on the grade selected, can be expensive. However, it may also be the type that requires gluing. So important to talk to the supplier.

Lee

[Jason in Sudbury]

Pete:
The only issue I think you will have, is how will you nail it down?
I am not too familiar with the dimple board (are they those 2x2 panels with the black dimples on one side and osb on the other?), but if the ply over top is anchored into the concrete, then you may be able to nail down the hardwood, but if not, then you may have to go with a floating floor.

Oh, and I used my 15ga. nail gun to nail it down. :wink:

I really looked at the floor tonight, just to see if there was any movement, and none whatsoever. No cracks, no gaps, tight as it was the first day.

[Pete in the Hammer]

Thanks, Lee. I'll make sure to check. I'm thinking it doesn't snap together.

peter

[Pete in the Hammer]

Pete:
The only issue I think you will have, is how will you nail it down?
I am not too familiar with the dimple board (are they those 2x2 panels with the black dimples on one side and osb on the other?), but if the ply over top is anchored into the concrete, then you may be able to nail down the hardwood, but if not, then you may have to go with a floating floor.

Oh, and I used my 15ga. nail gun to nail it down. :wink:

I really looked at the floor tonight, just to see if there was any movement, and none whatsoever. No cracks, no gaps, tight as it was the first day.

Hi Jason,

I used rolls of dimple board, and used tapcons to screw down plywood over the top of it. It's cheaper than the ready-made squares. I think it's probably just as good, if not better. I could nail into it no problem.

peter