Table Saw Safety

[glen]

A similar question was posted on a newsgroup and I am interested in the Canadian perspective. While shopping for a table saw recently virtually all salespeople said that the blade guard didn't matter because nobody uses them anyway. When I talked to local woodworking friends I found that they too left off the blade guard. I found so far that I prefer to go halfway. I took off the plastic blade guard but left the splitter and forks on. My question is (more of a survey), do you use a blade safety guard on your table saw?

[Ken in Regina]

I tossed the original guard because there were just too many cuts that I couldn't make safely, or at all, with it. I couldn't be bothered to modify it to save the splitter and anti-kickback pawls because I could never get the splitter to line up properly anyway.

I built my own blade guard that also has built in dust collection. I also built my own splitters. Unfortunately I have not duplicated the anti-kickback mechanism, so I just don't stand in line with the blade when I feed.

[Rick]

Seems that it is the first thing to come off a table saw. Yes it can pose a saftey hazard even in the hands of a seasoned wood worker. Mine is off and when I get into a larger shop I will build a gaurd and dust collector combination. Even with a gaurd and anti kick back I never stand in line with the " Bite " of the saw.
This is just me and my 2 cents worth

[Jim. O'Connor. Sr]

Any kind of guard is better than none. I admit to the occasional time when I remove mine but replace it right away when that cut(s)is done. It is not the best guard but I'll keep it until such time as I can replace it or the saw.

My pennyworth of sawdust.

Jim

[Roman]

I would prefer a safety suit of armour over the safety gaurd. They are required by law only the guys who write the law rarely work on a TS.

On the guards defence, if you are an ametuer or novice woodworker with no second set of eyes watching over you they might save a couple of digits. Kinda like a Christams Angel.

As for a splitter they work great for solid woods so long as the splitter thickness is less than the saw blade.

I hope Santa is good to you all
Merry Christmas

[Ron Evers, Beeton, ON]

Glen, my guard is removed for clarity – since day one. To me, it is a hazard that I do not need. When ripping, (where the most danger is) watch the fence/stock interface and not the blade. Problems occur when your stock comes off the fence. A splitter behind the blade is a good feature to prevent stock from closing (pinching) the blade but again, I do not use one because I often use the saw table for other work with the blade lowered.

Always be aware of your hand/fingers location relative to the blade, particularly in blind cuts such as dados and use a push-stick for narrow cuts between the blade and fence.

This subject is a “Hot Button” issue and usually results in a long string.

Best Regards, Ron.

[Gerry Wittenberg, Agassiz]

The guard, splitter, and kickback whatsits are all under the bench in pristine condition. Never used 'em, and have no intention of doing so in the future. Like Ron says, be aware of where the sharp spinney thing is in relation to your fingers and stay out of the line of fire. I, knock on wood, have never suffered a kickback.

Gerry

[Mike in Ajax]

guard and I have to agree that there are times that it is more of a hazard then help, it is awkward to store so I leave it on most of the time but do remove it for very narrow cuts.

I too have taken the spliter off but I use one board buddy past the rear of the blade. This grabs the board and holds it tight against the fence. Also I will use a feather board in front of the blade to hold the piece tight against the fence when doing narrow rips.

If I could get a pop up splitter to fit the saw then I would get one of these.

Have fun and work safely!

[Mark Eaton]

I have always used mine since day one. It might have a lot to do with the fact that teaching in the shop make the guard a safer saw that with out but now I am used to it and feel weird when it has to be taken off for thin cuts. I do all of my dados and groove with the router so this isn't an issue.

I like it and will keep it

Best wishes for the season
Mark Eaton
The National Router Academy

http://www.thenra.ca

[Werner Hohler]

Tried it, did not like it, its gone permanently, maybe some day if I get a decent TS I'll reconsider.
In the meantime I dont stand in front (never had a kick back) and think the cut through first before turning the saw on, I use push sticks and blocks (made from old mouse pads). I'm rather attached to all 10 of my digits and have no intention of doing an imitation of the knight in Monty Python's Holy Grail, flesh wound or not :-)
Cheers,
Werner in Winnipeg

[Ken in Regina]

Thanks, Werner!! I'm in need of some new push sticks for my jointer and I was trying to figure out what material to use on the face. Coincidentally I was looking at the pile of old mouse pads I've been hoarding, in case I ever found a use for them and thinking I should pitch them. You are definitely a santa ... your idea is a great christmas present. Thanks and I hope you find nice things under the tree.

[Mike in Grand Valley, ON]

Nothing to do with TS safety but the post by Werner about used mouse pads got me to thinking about the 175 gm yogurt cups that I hate to throw out.
Sure, I use them to hold small quantities of stain, paint, poly and thinner. Also to connect dust collector hose to a port with a different diameter. Also, they are great for storing odd screws and other fasteners.
What do I do with the other 275 cups Any other suggestions, or should I just toss them?

Mike

[Werner Hohler]

Ken,
I'm very happy that I was able to give you some ideas with the mouse pads, I wish that I could take the credit it, but its a tip I picked up on the forum earlier this year. A perfect reason to keep lurking around the forum, there's always some idea that someone can use.
Cheers,
Werner in Winnipeg

[Derek in Alcona]

That was the first thing that came off my saw, or I should say never went on. I find them more of a hazard than a safety issue, I can't see the cut with it on, I make sure that I am out off the line of fire when cutting and use push blocks and push sticks to keep all ten digits safe.IMHO, I find that the table saw is safer than the radial arm saw so I use the T.S. in conjunction with a 12" SCMS. just my $0.02 worth.

[Peter (up North,slippery]

No guards here.

Actually have drastically reduced table saw crosscutting when I got a SCMSaw.

Got a stupid kickback the other day, (should have known better) when a little cutoff scrap piece slid back to the back of the blade. Just didn't take the time to push it off. Left a nice welt in the gut.

Think Roman has a good point. Perhaps kevlar plaid shirts would be a popular item.

Peter.

[Mike Johnson]

I personally use the guard every time I can.

[Phil McKenna]

I bought an old Rockwell Beaver contractors saw and it came with out a guard. I had a bench top Craftsman 10" saw and for many cuts I had to remove the guard. The Tablesaws at work tend to have the guards off. I asked around and most of the Carpenters claimed that it was too time consuming to replace and realign the guard each time it is removed for a special cut. I found the same with my benchtop saw. My RAS came with a good guard and it has remained on for all operations. I think that most manufacturers view the blade guard with the same attitude as they do basic fences. They must be a standard item and must work. No finess required. SawStop has the answer to guards. A device which stops the blade and pulls it back under the table in less than 5 milliseconds!!!! This won't stop kick back but will save digits and limbs. Hope this helps. TTFN Phil

[Russ Phelps St Albert AB]

I put the guard on my new saw just to see what it looked like, then just to be fair I tried using it,didn't like it one bit so off it came. Now I would like to find a snap in splitter to use when ripping. Russ