Cutting Board Finish

[Gary M]

I'm making a couple of sink covers for a ladies camper. I know from the sample cover she gave me she uses the covers for a cutting board also.
What finish is best to use concidering they will be cutting food on the covers.
I don't want to use something that could make anyone sick.
Thanks in advance for your help. GaryM

[Bob Hamilton in Forest, O]

The most common finish for cutting boards is mineral oil. It is inert, won't go rancid, and is safe for consumption. Another choice would be walnut oil, which is a curing oil which means that it dries. Enough coats of walnut oil will even build up a surface film. Many people use cooking oils, but there is the chance than they can go rancid in the wood.

Good Luck!
Bob

P.S.: Mineral oil can be obtained in pharmacies in the "laxative" section.

[Gord - Cambridge]

Hi Gary

Here is some information that may intrest you.

http://members.home.net/jdkx2/FOODSAFEFINISHES.htm

[Vic]

Gary, if you are considering any nut oil finish, please keep it in mind that many people have a severe allergy to any kind of nut. Just a thought.
Vic

[Paul O'H Ingersoll]

Vic
Check out this TERRA NOVA, I haven't tried it but it looks interesting
http://www.swingpaints.com/products4.htm

paul

http://www.swingpaints.com/products4.htm

[J.P.Rap Hamilton]

I just read this yesterday on the "Fine Woodworking" web site so I copied and pasted it here.
(Just giving credit were it's due).
J.P.

Edible Finishes
by Jonathan Binzen

In the welter of contrary opinions about which finishes are food safe and which are not, a few naturally derived, unblended, no-hidden-ingredients, certainly nontoxic finishes stand out.

Pure tung oil
Extracted from the nut of the china wood tree. Used as a base in many blended finishes. Available from catalogs and hardware stores. Difficult to apply, requires many coats, good water-resistance.

Raw linseed oil
Pressed from flax seeds. Not to be confused with boiled linseed, which contains metallic driers. Listed as a food additive by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Very long curing time, good looks, low water-resistance, frequent reapplication.

Mineral oil
Although derived from petroleum, it is colorless, odorless, tasteless and entirely inert. Sold as a laxative in drug stores and as a wood finish in hardware and kitchen-supply stores. Simple to apply, low water-resistance, frequent reapplication.

Walnut oil
Pressed from the nuts of the walnut tree. Sold as a salad oil in health food stores and in large grocery stores. Walnut oil dries and won't go rancid. Easy to apply, frequent reapplication.

Beeswax
The work of the honey bee. Can be mixed with an oil to create a better-smelling, slightly more water-repellent finish. Sold in woodworking and turning catalogs.

Carnauba wax
Derived from the Brazilian palm tree. Harder than beeswax and more water-resistant. Can be used straight on woodenware as a light protective coating or a topcoat polish. Sold in woodworking and turning catalogs.

Shellac
A secretion from the lac bug. Harvested in India. Super blond shellac in flake form is the most water-resistant variety. A film-forming finish. Sold in woodworking catalogs and hardware and art supply stores.

Nothing
Available everywhere. Makes a reasonable finish for woodenware. No application time. Free.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-- Jonathan Binzen, formerly a Fine Woodworking editor, is now a freelance writer.

Photo: Jonathan Binzen

From "Which Finishes are Food Safe?," FW #129, pp. 66-69.

[Steve in Kemptville, ON]

I'd try pure Tung oil (not polymerized Tung oil).