Need Router, Table and Fence Advice

[Doug]

I'm in the market for a router, table and fence.

My immediate need is to make some replacement 3/4" teak handrails for a sailboat and I also eventually want to do dovetail joints for a blanket box and for drawers.

It seems to me the basic router insert from Lee Valley (the phenolic one that you drill yourself) routed into an MDF top plus an MDF fence and two clamps should do most of the round-over work and template work I'll need for making the handrails. (Plus I can make the top and fence bigger than the steel top that LV sells).

The full blown Incra jig system sounds like it should do the joinery and seems more versatile (and less expensive?) than a Leigh jig. Would be nice to find some less expensive solution for dovetails, though.

Thinking of the Hitachi M12V. All-In-One Wood in Mississauga (www.allinonewood.com) has it on sale for $320.

I would appreciate any and all comments. Thanks!

[Bryan R Cowing]

I have this Porter-cable router in fixed base. Good 1 1/2 hp router, not too heavy and easy to ajust height. I would only get a 3 hp router if you want to use the extremly large bits like panel raising, etc. A large heavy router ( especially a plunge which is top heavy) is hard to use free hand. A mid-size router will do 90% of the work you intend to do. my .02c

http://houseoftools.com/hot/Assets/product_images/P/POR-693PK.jpg

[phil malo]

I have the Porter Cable router pictured in the response and i have also the Lee Valley phenolic insert.
I was lucky to get a piece of black phenolic about 3/4 inch thick.It is about 3 feet by 2 feet.
The Lee Valley instructions were almost perfect.
I built my own fence out of some really great stuff.It is 3/4 inch plywood which is sanwiched between some 1/8 inch aluminium.I just use some CT
clamps to attach it to the base.
It is completely portable.I can install it practically anywhere between 2 sawhorses or on a BD workmate.
The only upgrade i can think of might be if i planned to do some raised panels and needed the really big router bits.From various comments in this forum and from various woodworking articles,i understand that the speed of this router would be to high.I would either need a bigger variable speed router or some kind of router speed control.

I am quite happy with the PC router and the Lee Valley insert.

Phil

[Randy Gillard]

I have the PC combo and can raise panels using a vertical bit in a horizontal router table. Alternatively you could use a normal router table and a very high fence.

The only time you have a problem is if your door design has arched features. My approach only works for rectangular doors. For arched, you need the big router and the horizontal bit.

Cheers
Randy

http://www.accesscable.com/~rgillard/cupboards.jpg

[Kelly Dukes , Rosetown Sk]

Doug: I just happen to have the LV round plate which I mounted in a 24in.by 40In table, also have the Hitachi M12v. True the M12 is a bit heavy for some hand work,but I find that is a small price to pay for all the other benifits of a router with lots of HP.I recently bought a small fixed base router B&D at a sale for $25.00, and now I have a good setup I am certain you would never regret buying the M12V. Kelly

[Rodger Curtis from Eden O]

Hi Doug -- Rodger here -- I have a Hitachi TR12 which is a single speed router that I got 15 plus years ago before variable speed routers came out.In all the years I have been using it the only thing I have had to do to it was replace a bearing.I made a 12 x12 in.plastic plate that I screw the router into.Then I have a 36 x 20 in. piece of plywood that I have an opening that I can drop the router and plastic into which I have only about 1/2 in. clearance going in.The reason for such a large plastic bace is to give me more support when I am using the router free hand as it gives me more support when I am routing near the edge.I also have a crank on it so I can raise or lower the bit
without taking the router out but if I have to change a bit it only takes a 1/2 min. to pop the whole thing out.I just clamp my router table to my work bench to use it then stand it in a corner when not in use.Simple but efective for me.

Rodger over and out

[Larry in Kamloops]

I bought the MV12 this year on the advice of many others on the forum. They were right...it's a great router, you won't be sorry. Spent the 2nd week of July on Saltspring, had a great time!

[Wayne]

I have the Oak Park Router Table and have found it to be well worth the money for it. It is available at All-In-One as well
Regards,
Wayne

[Roman]

Hi Doug just a thought, here, ever hear of a Dazuki ( phonetical spelling) dovetail saw. A japanese saw that cuts through wood like butter, a very sharp chisel and cut your own.

There is nothing quite like the look of the a well done hand cut dovetail and if you have time its cheap and then again boys and there toys, the more buttons dials and thinga me jiggys the better.

Regards Roman

[Ron Evers, Beeton, ON]

Doug, at the link below you can see the Stow-Away router table that I made. It economizes on space.

http://grampasworkshop.virtualave.net/r-e--routertable.html

Good plans for a table and fence are free at the following link.

Best Regards, Ron.


http://www.wood-worker.com/plans/router/index.htm