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Thread: Scroll Work & Inlay of a Curved Moose

  1. #1

    Default Scroll Work & Inlay of a Curved Moose

    This is a scroll saw method but I assume you can do the inlay thing other ways as well. The whole process took less than an hour not counting the glue-ups. Do the inlay on the top piece only.

    If you want to do an inlay on a curved medium like a chair back first make up some home made veneer about 1/8 thick slightly larger than the finished piece.

    Make a small piece of dark wood 1/8 thick slightly larger than the inlay.

    Stick the pattern on the dark wood with spray on contact cement and stick it to the top layer in the proper position with double sideded tape.

    Set your scroll saw table at about 8 degrees left tilt and cut clockwise around the pattern. This will create a tapered inlay that will fit tightly into the hole created.

    Lower the dark wood into the resulting hole with glue and press it flat for an hour.

    Laminate the remaining pieces on the curved mold and voila.
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    E.G.


    P.S. Your table setting will vary depending on the thickness of the inlay and the size of the scroll saw blade. Test on scraps until you get the right taper for a perfect fit.
    Last edited by Lost in the Woods; 01-16-2009 at 09:49 PM.
    You stop learning the instant you start talking...
    And start again when you stop thinking how smart you are.

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry in Fort Sask, AB View Post
    Yes, that is cool. Oh great! Now I need a scroll saw!:cry:

    Kerry
    Just for fun, I did an inlay using a razor knife and some small chisels.

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    I much prefer the scroll saw method as it takes less time doesn't require a bunch of work cleaning out the relief. I can also do a better job on the fit as this example shows. However a little practice and the knife works well too.

    E.G.
    You stop learning the instant you start talking...
    And start again when you stop thinking how smart you are.

  3. #3

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    Jeez Ed, thanks for the tips and info. Appreciate it. I too don't have a scroll saw but I can borrow one if need be.
    That being said, I still want to have a solid piece of wood for the rocker headrest. As I get close to that stage I'm sure I'll figure a good method. Just have to figure out how others do it.
    Any suggestions for a contrasting wood for the inlay on the mahogany? The plugs are ebony so I was thinking of using the same ebony.

    BTW the person who commisioned me to make a mahogany rocker like my last one wants it all mahogany with no walnut for the back slats. Hmmmm...lol.
    Last edited by Bri in Mtl; 06-04-2007 at 05:25 AM.

  4. #4

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    Brian: I see no reason why you couldn't cut the back slat a bit thicker then slice 1/8th off the inside, do the inlay, then glue it back on. It shouldn't be to hard to do the inlay on a slightly curved 1/8 inch piece. You should probably make a form anyway. It seems you are doing a lot of these chairs and a laminated back would allow you to pick the finest piece of wood to start with. No need for it to be 2 or 3 inches thick. A little over 1 inch would probably be enough to get 6 - 1/8th slices for a full lamination. Some people would probably like a middle layer in a contrasting wood too.

    You could even send me the slice and I would do the inlay for you until you get a scroll saw with some practice built in. :p

    E.G.
    Last edited by Edward G. Burlington; 06-04-2007 at 04:54 PM.
    You stop learning the instant you start talking...
    And start again when you stop thinking how smart you are.

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