Door Hinge Dilemma

[Walter]

I just recently installed two doors on a hutch. The hinges used were non mortise hinges. There are three hinges on each door. The problem is the doors do not close completly. Seems like the hinges are tight and will not allow the doors to close. The doors will close to within approx 2 inches then you have to gently force them close. When you let go the doors will spring open. How do I fix this problem open door delema.

regards
Walter

[Bill Simpson]

Pictures would be a big help. What kind of hinges and the install???

Butt Hinges? Are the screws hitting?

[asindero]

Three hinges are generally used for heavy doors. The doors being heavy, two of the hinges are always close together at the top. Putting a hinge right in the middle is nonsense and will only cause misalignment like you are having now.

[Walter]

The hinges installed are Lee Valley 00H52.14 Finial End No-Mortise Hinge.

[bender]

Maybe you need to bevel the edges of the doors?

[Blaine in Kitchener]

Three hinges are generally used for heavy doors. The doors being heavy, two of the hinges are always close together at the top. Putting a hinge right in the middle is nonsense and will only cause misalignment like you are having now.

Asindero has the correct answer. It's tough enough to line up two of these no mortice hinges. When you put three of them in play you have an almost impossible task. If they are the least bit out you'll get the kind of binding you describe.
I'd suggest a heavier hinge if your doors are that heavy I'd suggest you use a different hinge and only use two.

Blaine

[GolfSteve in Calgary]

Undo the screws on the middle hinge and see if the problem goes away.

[Walter]

I installed a set of cabinet magnets to keep the doors closed. Seems to be working.

[Walter]

Did that and they still stay open.

[Jim in Burlington]

If you have screws that are larger than will completely recess into the space allowed you will have that problem.

[stevem]

i just installed doors with those exact hinges and they were a pain, never again.

make absolutely sure that screws in the door side and frame edge are perfectly flush, use the next size smaller screw if needed

rounding the edges of the door and frame where the hinge sits very slightly will help too, those hinges are bent to shape and have a slight radius in the corners

[Alexander]

i just installed doors with those exact hinges and they were a pain, never again.

make absolutely sure that screws in the door side and frame edge are perfectly flush, use the next size smaller screw if needed

rounding the edges of the door and frame where the hinge sits very slightly will help too, those hinges are bent to shape and have a slight radius in the corners

Agree! they are a pain. By the time you've got a srew head small enough to be perfectly flush it's a screw that's not worth using. I ended up drilling holes into the doorframe and door to make space for the screw heads. Doesn't look so smart when the door's open though.

[Toolguy]

Take a small mill file and file the heads of the screws flush with the hinge after you've installed them. Should solve the problem (hopefully!).

Neil

[Mark in Burlington]

If the above does not work, If you cut in the hinge with a slight angled mortise, it will mean the hinge has a little more breathing room and not bind. It does not need to be much, scribe out the hinge mounted to the wood. and carefull to cut a slight angle inward mortise from nothing on the outside down to about 1/16 on the inside. This was often done on many traditional cabinets using butt hinges in the past.
Good Luck, Mark

[Walter]

Ok You asked for photo's I hope that these help show the problem.
First photo is the no-mortise hinge.
Second photo shows the maximum position of the doors closed without forceing them.
Third photo shows the position of the hinge.
Forth photo shows magnet.
Fifth metal to magnet.

[Walter]

Some more photo's.

First photo shows doors closed and holding with the installed magnets. This unit sits on top of the secretary.
Second photo shows dentil molding made that has to be attatched with crown molding when it is made.
Third close up of molding.
Molding in jig.
Photo of base unit that the Hutch will sit on top of. Will be heavy when the two pieces come together.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Take a small mill file and file the heads of the screws flush with the hinge after you've installed them. Should solve the problem (hopefully!).

Neil

Use a sraight edge to install the hinges and be very particular at lining them up, works for me, but one other thing here, European and American parts don't use the same angle on the screws and hinges.

This might be the problem and fix, if that is the case.

[Bill Simpson]

Leo's detail about the countersink is correct, also I see in the first picture, you have a small stop lip on the caseing ... Is there sufficiant clearance when the door closes? This could cause some pushing out. Stick a dollar bill in the joint, hold the door closed and see if you can pull it out easily (along the whole length of the door) I think you can find your problem spot this way, either the jam or hinge compression will easily show up with checking if a dollar will slide out when closed. (just like checking to see if there is a good seal on the fridge door where you don't want the dollar to slide)

[Patrice]

That is the type of hinge I used for the corner shelf unit I just finished. A very slight bevel on the hinge edge of the door, about 3 to 5 degrees, solves the problem mentioned. If you think the screw heads are too proud color the heads and close the door - proud screw heads will leave a colored mark on the opposite edge. Then you know where to trim. A very sharp 3/16 chisel and very shallow cut should suffice and is not as ugly as a drill hole. Apply stain and finish to the chisel cut and no one will notice.