1941 Wadkin RM 26" jointer over 24" planner

[jgarrett forsberg]

OK looks like I got the drive side all work out as far as mechanical goes. I still need to find a cheep 600 volts VFD for speed control but as it stands I have the stock feed rates of 20/30/46 FPM. I got the 145 frame motor mounted on an old foot mount I had in the rat hole using a peace of 3/8 steel plate. So I have belt adjustment and the shaft height I needed to work with the guards. works just great with the wadkin motor mount.



Now I just have to get this mount Jackified


jack
English machines

[jgarrett forsberg]

boys handle are the pits. 1 as is,2 electrolysis,3 jackified.




off with the tables



jack
English machines

[Kelwynne]

Can you still get lead shot at the sport camping store/gun shop. I am not a hunter so I would not know. Does it cost a lot for say 5 lbs. Or are there any other sources for lead that are cheep?
there will be an opening in the counter weight of about 3/4".
jack
English machines

Cabella's has shot listed on their website for ~$26 for a 5lb package. Locally you might want to give That Hunting and Fishing Store or le Barons a call for pricing/availability.

Some other suggested sources that came up were:
- soft gym weights sometimes use lead shot
- old wheel weights (call tire store/mechanic) that you could melt down to a usable size.


On another note, have you ever had an open house or given a tour of the old arn?

[J. Vibert]

On another note, have you ever had an open house or given a tour of the old arn?

Funny you should ask that.... I was at Jack's yesterday and got a little Wadkin temple tour . I swung by his place on my way back to Barrie from Montreal.

The cutting head for the RM really needs to be seen to grasp it's incredible size. The thing is massive....

Admission isn't free though... you need a Wadkin decoder ring to get the password....lol.

[jgarrett forsberg]

[QUOTE][Locally you might want to give That Hunting and Fishing Store /QUOTE]

I was going to try there as my first stop.

On another note, have you ever had an open house or given a tour of the old arn?

As J said I have had tours What he forgot to mention was I let him make a cut on the PK as I watch his facale expressions. I did enjoy the viset form the 2 members here on CCW. J got to see the PK with saw dust on it. PM me Kelwynne for particulars on a tour as you seem to be up the street. In the meen time i did do a shop tour(youtube) over a year ago but the stenner mortiser and othere machines like the Brookman dovetailer are not in it You can find them on tool613 youtube.


back to the the rebuild::::::::::::::::::::::

135lbs motor mount. jesssssssssss.




jack
English machines

[jgarrett forsberg]

This Wadkin RM came with the special order pattern makers in feed table. What's a Pattern makers table?
When making wood pattern for the foundry sand cast forms, the patterns had to have draft. What's draft?
Draft is a small taper in the pattern forms so that it would release from the sand. So for a joiner to be a Pattern makers the front table has to tip side to side. The table will no longer be coplaner and the wood will be removed more on one side than the other.
The under side of the table has a large pivot and a thread crank. The edge on the table is milled so that when it is lowered it will go back to co planer when the two machined surfaces meet.


This thread crank sets in the table

The first time I have ever seen this in a Wadkin piece. There is nickel weld in some of the cast to fill in a void in the sand cast. A war machine from 1941 and to wasteful to replace the casting is my guess.

Next is the rise and fall ways. you can see the planed surfaces that mate the tables.

Pined to the table

When theses two surfaces meet the table is co-planer.

A gauge to read draft. So fine is the machining in this table that even the gauge is flush with the front edge so as not to upset rabbiting.

Don't let the short table fool you this is a finely tuned machine. All the ways have been scraped in. that pattern on the ways is hand work done with scrapers for a fit that is better than any grinder.

The other half of the rise and fall and the plate for moving the table in and away from the cutter block for molding.
there are no gib plates to adjust for ware and fit to the side walls, just a hand scraped in fit. By the looks of the ways this 70 year old machine appears not to need them.could just be the size on the ways.


The out feed table should be a breeze.

jack
English machines

[Donna H]

Love this thread and what you have done. Great explanations. I almost feel as though I know what you are talking about.
Might I add I covet your buildings! Driven past a zillion times, greatful I haven't driven off the road while gawking.

[stevem]

wow, maybe i'll have to visit either before or after our trip to nb in august

love to see the old british stuff

[Jerome]

drool drool drool.

[Rusty]

Jarrett that's a beauty. I'm going to love seeing you fix it up. I'm pretty sure you'll rival Jack's rescue but it's going to take some time for sure. Is your plan going to be to find the parts first and then proceed?

OOPS. sorry wrong thread.

[Mark in Burlington]

If you don't have a disk sander I bet it on your list now
jack
English machines

Jack, How do you find the Progress belt and disk? I just picked a P-12-60. Is yours the 60" belt? The belt is not supported along the entire length and I was thinking of building a bigger platen for the machine. I didn't realize, being in a hurry, the belt does not flip up which is a PITA for more floor space. I could not pass up having another Canadian machine in the shop.
Cheers, Mark

[jgarrett forsberg]

Mark
Its got it good point and bad. Mechanically its easy to work on a fix as the parts are of the shelf. well made thick welded plate not tin too.
It would be better with a 16" disk but the 12" disks are cheep and you can get them every where even Crappy tire.I find the disk more useful in my work and would opt for there 108 side sander. Yes its the 60" belt and i get them made at the saw doctors. I see theses more in metal shop when in wood shops. I think the reason the platen is short is so it can drop out(wing nuts on the inside lower the platen by 6") for a soft sander. i have used this feature lots. the platen is weak and by no means as ridged as the cast wadkin BGY or the General 100. As you know Progess only makes sander and for what they are they are simple and work well.for a small stroke sander I think there the best made. Mine came with a 2HP tree faze and that is plenty. It was a machine I got when picking up the wadkin BRS spindle moulder and i got it for 100 when the guy offered it up. At first I thought I wanted the old school cast Wadkin BGY with the flip up features but I am not sure i want the fixed platen now. If any thing i would get the wadkin 36" double disk.


jack
English machines

[Mark in Burlington]

Mark
Its got it good point and bad. Mechanically its easy to work on a fix as the parts are of the shelf. well made thick welded plate not tin too.
jack
English machines

Thanks Jack for your reply, I figured for the $150 it cost me and its 2hp single phase if I end up with another machine down the road, no money lost. I was thinking of making up a clamp on thick plate that slides over the other to increase the platen size. I have an Progress edge sander, so I know they are well made but not sexy.
I am still thinking of the big 36" Max disk sander... But after see your Brookman I would really like a dovetailer next. But there is no shop space left damit without invading the bench room...
Cheers, Mark

[Mark in Burlington]

Mark
If any thing i would get the wadkin 36" double disk.
jack
English machines

BTW with the 1/2 dozen high schools closing in the Hamilton area in the next few years, I know a couple of the shops are full of Wadkin stuff.

[jgarrett forsberg]

Mark I am looking for a drawer sander the wadkin GF. if you come across on let me know. i will look for a Brookman.

not much to report but I did get the rise and fall works out of the RM and I did not brake anything. the bed roller adjustments where rusted solid and were a lot of work to get apart and clean then shine.
the out feed table is ready/done. One thing with the large machine is you have to let the paint cure before you handle the parts(2 weeks). I will be working on the main frame next.




For body work I start with cast grinding after a pressure wash. I like to clean the shapes up a little and get the line to flow better. some may not agree with this so look away.









jack
English machines

[Andywoj]

Very nice work.
I too am a fan of Wadkin equipment. I currently have a 12" jointer and an 18" Bandsaw.
Always in the market for more Wadkin equipment.
It is really nice to see the quality that went into the manufacture of this equipment.

Andy

[jgarrett forsberg]

thanks Andy.

if any of you have never used a needle scaler for restoration look at this video. its a must tool in the owwm kit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2ftL6pn8bA&feature=plcp

jack
English machines

[mikeddd]

I never heard of a needle scaler, very cool.

[J. Vibert]

I bought a needle scaler some time ago for working on owwm... My overal impression is "meh". It certainly makes a hell of a lot of noise though....lol.

What I did find was that it was good for revealing (breaking up) that deeper layer of rust after you've ran the wire wheel over the area. It also does quick work of areas that have an excessive build up of whatever. However it wouldn't be the first tool I would reach for, for removing paint ymmv.

[jgarrett forsberg]

However it wouldn't be the first tool I would reach for, for removing paint ymmv.

What The scaler excels at is nooks and crannys that the wire wheel just can't get into. They don't ware down ether like a wire wheel does. when your working large casting most of the work is with hand tools. not like you can bring it to a wire grinder. So unless you have a VS angle grinder your going to throwing a lot of wire from the wheels working small areas . Don't ware shorts and T shirt DAMHIK. The best thing about OWWM is you need to buy more tools and the scaler is cheep and should be added to your tool box. Its really no good for tin machines as its to aggressive but for cast ARN and hard old paint and rust I would not be with out one IMHO.



jack
English machines