My lathe is completed. and Wood Gloat

[pumpjocky]

Well I finally completed my lathe, now just ironing out the small glitches in the test phases. It is powered by a 1 hp leeson motor, and the main support is 6" x 6" H beam with 1/4 plate welded on both sides. The bottom supports are 3/8" thick 3" x 3" angle. low speed is around 300 rpm. I had put a large unbalanced blank on it last night and it is very stable with no vibration or movement. I would have to thank my father in-law for the use of his welder. Also after I told him my heavy duty lathe was almost completed he dropped of the wood in the other pictures. I may have exaggerated the capabilities of the lathe to him.
Thanks to everyone here for the help with the speed reduction questions I had ...couldn't have done it with out you.

[Chimera]

Wow! What kind of wood are the burls?

[J. Vibert]

Very cool... ...and extra points for creating something I've never seen before...

Excuse my lathe ignorance, but is this meant to solely do bowls, or the like...?

FWIW, I know this has been discussed to death in other threads, but you should consider swapping out the decora light switch for something rated to break induction loads.

[Brad in Aurora]

Wow! I am a fan of home-made equipment. This is great, the equivalent of an expensive bowl lathe. It looks like you used a heavy duty jack shaft for the headstock. How did you get the theads for the end of the shaft?
Great score on the wood too.

[pumpjocky]

Thanks Chimera , The wood burls are yellow Birch. still trying to decide how to start cutting them.
yes it is primarily a bowl lathe but I am already thinking of designing a tail stock as well that could be attached to the tool rest anchors. The switch was just extra sitting in the garage so i have used it for now...What kind of switch would you suggest, it never occurred to me that it would not suit the purpose.
Thanks

[J. Vibert]

The switch was just extra sitting in the garage so i have used it for now...What kind of switch would you suggest, it never occurred to me that it would not suit the purpose.
Thanks

Motor type loads (inductive) arc heavily when the circuit is opened. Standard light switches aren't made with the contacts rated for breaking such loads. All this really means, is that your switch will have a much shorter life span compared to something designed for the application. However, you can buy a couple dozen builder grade light switches for the same cost as manual motor starter (switch)....lol.

My "official" recommendation is to buy a properly rated switch, but if it were me, I wouldn't ...

Here's an example: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/Produ...31&language=US

[Andrew_K99]

I bought a few of these switches and they work great, and the price isn't too bad either.

http://www.busybeetools.com/products...N-2HP-CUL.html

It might not be a bad idea to relocate the switch to somewhere more accessible while working 'just in case'.

AK

[BLOWN454]

You could also try your local Princess Auto and have a look in the surplus section. They do have these ones, it would allow for reversing as well.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...versing-Switch

Capture.jpg

[pumpjocky]

thanks for the info guys. The switch may move as I see what works best but i thing for the price for now i will use it
The main shaft is 1 1/4 and that is the only part I had to send out, a machine shop made it for me and keyed the other end for 75.00.
I had seen a picture somewhere last year and I just happened in January to see a big....Free Chunk of H beam and then it hit me.
I mainly built it for roughing out large blanks that make my other lathe walk all over the shop.

[Murray in Brights Grove]

Jason,
great job on the lathe, I was thinking of something like that for backyard summer turning. Now to start looking for materials! Habitat for Humanity Re-store regularly has industrial 3 phase switches for 480volt lighting or motor starting. They are always cheap (I paid $1 for one) as nobody knows what they are for. They have 3 screw terminals on both sides and each is an independent contact. They are usually rated for more hp than you have, just look at the switch as the rating is almost always on the switch. They never burn out, if they do move your wires to another contact on the switch. I burnt out 3 light switches on my 3/4 hp tablesaw before installing one of these and have had no problems since.

Murray

[J. Vibert]

I just removed an used Allen Bradley, 120/240v, 1hp, 1ph motor "switch" from a line we're decommissioning. Not sure where you're at Jason, but it's yours pro bono if you want it. Comes with the designed enclosure as well...

[Downwindtracker2]

If you look in your local Rona,they should have 20amp light switches,they are the cheap answer . I used one for 25 years with a 1hp Baldor on my jointer.

[J. Vibert]

So far we have the $1 habitat re-store option, and my free properly rated/designated offer.... I'm willing to bet the larger 20a bandaide won't be cheaper.....

[Downwindtracker2]

Your're right.I was warned not to use household 15a switches as they can weld themselves on.

[stevem]

Your're right.I was warned not to use household 15a switches as they can weld themselves on.

they can and will!! i have had that problem, couldnt turn off my lathe one day. the contacts literally welded themselves closed.

nice job on the lathe, ive been considering one too, but made up of extra beaver 3400 parts because i have so many!! posibly compact enough to throw in the travel trailer when camping

[hoss10]

Cool Jason very cool! Homemade Lathe were fairly common back in the day. It looks like you have done a good job. A couple of quick ideas, do put the switch somewhwere you can get to it quick I like a spot I can hit it with mt knee. I know guarding has been over done but I would look at putting something over the top of the headstock. Years ago I used an old lathe with open step pulleys on the top and I found I would often rest my hand there while sanding. Never lost anything but scared myself a few times.