A Tale of Two Craftmaster Table Saws

[stevem]

Steve, sure looks good, by the way does my bandsaw 3300 needs tuning or anything else...
Merci
Jacques

i havent looked at the bandsaw yet, its in three pieces in the back corner!!

i'll pull it out this weekend, but a quick once over when it got here indicated its pretty good, good tyres and good blade tells me it was used recently and cared for. motor is toast though

[stevem]

resolved the issue with the blade wobble, turns out the blade washers are different even though they fit and look the same. i guess the one intanded for the inside of the blade is machined somewhat flatter.

runnout at the blade washer is now 1 thou, at the blade about 5 thou, pretty good for a cheap 8 1/4 freud blade

power is the next issue, the 1/4 hp of course just isnt enough. so an upgrade to 1/2 hp instead. of course the one i had ran the wrong way and different shaft size. naturally!! so rewire the motor, find another pulley, bolt the new motor on etc etc

[Jacques Leclerc]

Great stuff, am I ever glad that those tools are in your hands, because I don't know a things about fixing-up tools,. Can the 1/4 hp be use on the band saw, or this motor is just too small for just about any power tools.
Merci encore Steve for everything.
Jacques

[J. Vibert]

1/4hp would be great for a scrollsaw/little drill press or something that would see the same level of work load...

[LightSabre]

i missed the bit about "groove around the middle", there shouldnt be one. the set screw in the arbour bracket should be ligned up with the flat bit machined in the pin. the pin rotates with the arm. the groove in the end of the pin is for the other locking setscrew that has a small section of the threads machined off

file the middle of the pin all around to remove any burrs and it should come out easily

Actually that pin doesn't turn at all. That's why I was considering getting something on there to get it moving again. Just not sure how carefull I should be?

In the meantime I'll get back to painting it up. Looks so much better with some fresh paint!

[stevem]

Actually that pin doesn't turn at all. That's why I was considering getting something on there to get it moving again. Just not sure how carefull I should be?

In the meantime I'll get back to painting it up. Looks so much better with some fresh paint!

so the arbour arm rotates on the pin but is tight in the trunnion? take the two screws out and get that pin out!!

the trunnion and arm are pretty solid, there's probably a raised burr where the arbour arm set screw was installed wrong.

[stevem]

Great stuff, am I ever glad that those tools are in your hands, because I don't know a things about fixing-up tools,. Can the 1/4 hp be use on the band saw, or this motor is just too small for just about any power tools.
Merci encore Steve for everything.
Jacques

total success!! the 1/2 hp is definetly the way to go. its a good motor, not very old compared to some i have. but i wanted a light weight motor because it hangs on the back of the little saw. an old 1/2 hp RI motor would weigh more than the saw itself.

the 1/4 hp definetly wont be enough for the bandsaw except for setting it up

[LightSabre]

so the arbour arm rotates on the pin but is tight in the trunnion? take the two screws out and get that pin out!!

the trunnion and arm are pretty solid, there's probably a raised burr where the arbour arm set screw was installed wrong.

Both screws are already out. It looks like that pin is siezed into the trunnion. Every other part moves but that one. I tried soaking in WD40 and applying heat then attempted to tap the pin out and rotate the pin with some vice grips but no luck. Gonna try tomorrow again but all I have is a propane torch for heat. Not sure if I can get it hot enough... Maybe I'm being too afraid of breaking things?

If the penetrating oil I put on last night hasn't done anything by this afternoon I'm going to try shock therapy - heat it up as best I can with the propane torch then dumping it in a bucket of cold water.... wish me luck!

[stevem]

im sure it will come out, a propane torch should provide enough heat to loosen it

support one of the "ears" of the trunnion on a solid flat heavy surface with a large socket underneath(bigger than the pin), hit the pin with a smaller socket and a hammer

of course the other option is to just live with it, but adjusting blade height is compromised, changing the bearings is still easy with the trunnion attached

[stevem]

jacque's saw is complete.

had to use a modern motor due to weight restrictions, but everything works great

motor mount system was non existant when i got the saw, so i made up a mount using a couple of beaver 1200 parts, some rectangular tubing and a piece of 1/2 inch rod

this saw was designed like the beaver 1200 and 2200 in that the motor didnt tilt with the arbour, i tried a couple of cuts at 45 bevel and its works fine but you have to slide the motor over a bit on the rod for belt alignment

electrical isnt mounted to the saw, didnt want to drill/tap holes in the cabinet until jacques decides where to mount the switch

lost the locking lever for the fence, so made a new one on the lathe and im hoping dave will find another height adjustment handle

mitre guage is from a beaver 1200, i have a CM mitre guage but its a 3/4 bar, the saw has 5/8 grooves

[LightSabre]

im sure it will come out, a propane torch should provide enough heat to loosen it

support one of the "ears" of the trunnion on a solid flat heavy surface with a large socket underneath(bigger than the pin), hit the pin with a smaller socket and a hammer

of course the other option is to just live with it, but adjusting blade height is compromised, changing the bearings is still easy with the trunnion attached

I'll give that a shot next for sure! I could live with it but raising and lowering the arbor arm would involve leaving that screw loose and result in a saw that was almost impossible to keep aligned and that is not acceptable to me. I plan on building some decent simple but nice furniture for the basement we are finishing this year and I don't want to do extra work correcting for bad cuts.

I actually bought another identical saw for parts but it is in perfect working order other than missing the arbor nut and washer. I had planned to "lend" it to my father in law after I got mine painted and back together but until I get that pin out (the ONLY problem with my dad's old saw at this point!) it's still my backup plan.

If I do get that pin and and have two workign saws - any idea where I may get my hands on arbor nut and flange that will fit these old saws?

[stevem]

sure the beaver parts will fit except for the nut

the beaver washers and virtually any other will fit easily, but the nut is a lefthand thread on the CM because its a right tilt saw and the arbour spins the opposite way to most saws

[LightSabre]

Success! It took a while and I tried everything I could find until I finally heated it up pretty hot then dunked it fast into cold water. Pin came out fairly easily after that. Hurray!!!

Sanded down the pin with some 100 then 400 grit sand paper and now the pin slides in very easily and doesn't bind when rotating it in the trunnion.

For the left handed nut - I actually work in an industrial area and we have several bolt and fastener dealers in the area - Acklands-Grainger, Brofasco, Allied fastener, etc. so I don't expect too many problems tracking one down. The machinest who first looked at it, replaced the bearings and shot-peaned it (but was too afraid to free that trunnion pin) told me it's a 5/8" left-handed fine thread. For the washer - Is the diameter of the flange a standard size? Could I use a "modern" stepped washer? I'm just concerned that it will be bigger/smaller and that may affect clamping a blade in there.

[stevem]

i told you so!!

just cleanup any burrs and when you reassemble the saw, make sure that the arbour bracket set screw lands on the flat section of the pin

the other(adjustable) set screw with the unthreaded end engages that groove in the pin to allow rotation without lateral movement

for the missing washer, i would use any thick heavy washer, the origanal was flat on the blade side unlike the fixed one, it has a shoulder machined on it, that one was my problem with the blade wobble
a shouldered washer would be better on the outside too(it should be flatter) but my(jacques) saw seems to be ok

[LightSabre]

i told you so!!

just cleanup any burrs and when you reassemble the saw, make sure that the arbour bracket set screw lands on the flat section of the pin

the other(adjustable) set screw with the unthreaded end engages that groove in the pin to allow rotation without lateral movement

for the missing washer, i would use any thick heavy washer, the origanal was flat on the blade side unlike the fixed one, it has a shoulder machined on it, that one was my problem with the blade wobble
a shouldered washer would be better on the outside too(it should be flatter) but my(jacques) saw seems to be ok

I wonder if the one for Jaques saw had been worn flat? I know the inner flange on my dads was so badly worn you could barely tell that there was a step on it at all - another one of the things the machinest fixed for me. But the outer washer on mine looks identical to the flange - step and all. And it was flat too. Maybe someone in the past decided to use and inner flange as a washer too? We'll find out in a couple weeks when I go look around. Maybe these fastener places will have some kind of stepped washer to fit.,

Thanks for all your help Stevem!