Veneering Questions

[Bidule]

Hello guys

I have some nice peruvian walnut that i would like to resaw.
My plan is to resaw it to 1/8 rough and than sand it down to 3/32 with a drum sander.
I am a total noob with veneering, i did some reading on joe woodworker's web site but still not sure how to do it.

He don't recommend PVA glue for veneering, he recommends Ultra-Cat PPR veneer glue. I don't think this stuff is available around here, in BC. What type of glue do you guys recommend that would be available in big box store ?

My panels will be 20" by 47" , is it do-able without a veneer press ? (I don't have one)

If yes, what should i use for the substrate, MDF, plywood or particle board ?
Do i need to glue a layer of that veneer on both side of the substrate ?

[Rob Brown]

Veneering is fantastic. It opens up a whole new world. Some smaller projects to practice with is a great way to learn some of these new techniques. And if you find this really is something you enjoy buy a vacuum system.

The problem with PVA glue is that it causes the veneer to warp. The thicker the veneer, the less it will warp. Having said that I have used PVA glue with thin veneers (1/32") without problem. DON'T apply the glue directly to the veneer, just the core. Another thing when using PVA glues, don't apply it too heavy. And for each veneer there is a slight difference in what is too heavy. Open pore and burled woods will bleed glue if it's too heavy, causing finishing problems. You can also use other types of glues (I'm guessing the one they recommended was their product, but I don't know that) like Unibond 800, etc.

As for cores, it depends. I have used PC (cheap, pretty flat), MDF (very flat, weak screw holding ability, sometimes weak joinery), solid (can be very tricky...not for beginners), baltic birch (somewhat flat, very strong). All have their strengths and weaknesses.

And yes, apply the same, or very similar, veneer to both sides. The species can be different, but they must be the same thickness and have similar characteristics. Also apply them in the same grain direction.

You can use a large, flat board with lots of cauls and clamps, but it is very tricky at that size. Do at least one dry run to make sure you can make it happen quick enough.

Then you have the issue of actually cutting the veneer with the bandsaw. I won't get into that here, as it's a whole article....One that we will cover in the magazine over the next while.

Hope that helps. I've really only skimmed the surface of this topic, but hopefully you have enough info to get started. That reminds me.....maybe even do a practice panel with some cheaper species first, depending on how valuable you feel the Peruvian walnut is.

Let us know how it goes. Take some photos if you can.

[Bidule]

Thanks Rob.

It is a good starting point.
I went to the local Industrial Plastic & Paints and asked for Unibond 800 and they looked at me like an alien.
They never hear about plastic resin glue, and they seemed too lazy to look in their catalog.
Does anybody have a Canadian source where to get plastic resin glue ?

[Rob Brown]

Martin,

Yes, your local store will not know it, as you found out. It's a 2-part urea formaldehyde adhesive (not a plasitc resin) that you must mix before using. Check out http://vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm They are in the States and will deliver. There are other adhesives as well that will work. Everyone has their favourites. With thicker, bandsawn veneers you are likely going to have better results than if you were using thinner veneers.

Like I said before, a test run with some similar veneer will give you a better idea how all this works.

[John JMK]

Check out http://www.veneersystems.com, they are Canadians working out of Buffalo, NY. They ship from both sides of the border. Good and knowledgable.

John