Mission/Arts and Crafts Buffet and Hutch Build - FINISHED!

[Gary Zimmel]

Last night I got all my pieces down to 3/8", so this morning I was able to get the final machining done to make my T&G for the back.
First thing to do was to rip the stock into my widths that I will need.
Five pieces at 1 7/8", one at 2" and one at 2 1/4" for each section.

I put my groove in first with just my rip blade in.
Two passes to make sure the groove is centered.

T&G 1.jpg

Next I put 1/4" worth of dado blades in and set up with a sacrificial fence.
My grooves were 1/4" deed so we set up to take off just shy of the 1/4".

T&G 2.jpg

With the T&G now machined I make a quick trip to the router table to knock 1/16" off the groove side.

T&G 3.jpg

Last thing to do is to knock the 1/16" off the tongue side. Router table won't work for this.
For this I have a couple of options.
First is to do all the pieces with a block plane.
If there were just a couple of pieces I would do this but with 24 pieces we will set the table saw up which is my second option.
With my blade tipped over to 45 degrees and just barely protruding we send a couple of test pieces through to get the correct set up.

And after these have gone through I have all my T&G made.

T&G 4.jpg

As I am only working with 3/8" stock my width had to be only 1 5/8" wide.
With the narrow width of each board the 1/8" reveal fits in nicely.
Now a little test fit and these 28 pieces will get pre- stained.


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[dwoody]

Took me minute to follow how you did it but very elegant.

[Gary Zimmel]

Thanks Dennis.

With a little extra shop time today I got my T&G sanded and got to do a test fit of the back.
Everything has gone to plan and she fits like a glove.
First and last pieces are made a tad narrow to allow for wood movement.
Now we get to knock everything down and do a little staining....

back 5.jpg

back 6.jpg

back 7.jpg

I am real happy the way the back has turned out. It took a few extra BF of oak to do but it sure was worth it.
Even got the thumbs up from the boss again..

You got to love it when a plan starts to come together....
Hope everyone is getting a little shop time this weekend!


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[Gary Zimmel]

The next couple of nights will be finishing my staining.
I find on a project like this it's a lot easier to stain all the parts and then put it back together.
Now is when I finally see how my board selection has turned out.

stained side.jpg

All in all pretty good I'm thinking.
The two stiles were from one piece that had lots of ray fleck.
Panels have very little ray fleck so they don't compete with the other pieces.

As I have been staining I've been watching for any bleeding that happens.
In these pieces I have had a couple of spots that have bled.
Nothing ruins your day like a dried stain run on a nice chunk of wood....That you find next morning.

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[jason_31]

this thing really is beautiful, after finally getting to do some mortise and tenon work myself, i have an even greater appreciation for your work.

[Jerome]

It looks really beautiful Gary. The rays are really popping, and great matching.

[Harry In Ottawa]

Love your work Gary!! Excited to see it all together!

Many thanks for sharing
../Harry

[Gary Zimmel]

Thanks for all the comments guys...

Typically one would build a face frame to complete the front to make sure there is no edge or end grain showing.
Being that my face is only 3/4" and I want everything real nice and tight I am adding the final trim after the hutch has been glued up.
Biggest thing I have to watch for is glue squeeze out.
This we can't have as we now are working on finish stained parts or finish sanded parts.
Would be a real task to get into some of the nooks and crannies to sand any glue spots now....

To make sure I don't have any squeeze out I put a cross cut blade in the table saw and have 1/16" of the blade exposed.
I couple passes through the saw and I have channels to catch the glue...

final trim 1.jpg

Now we can get the last pieces of trim that will make up the face done.
Lots of clamps and some rags to protect the finished side.

final trim 2.jpg

This takes a little extra time but the result is well worth it....
Hope everyone got a little shop time this weekend!

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[dwoody]

OK I'm curious. Why did you do the cross pieces before the vertical. I would have done them vertical then horizontal. That way I am cutting the horizontals to length which is pretty easy. I know if you put the cabinet on its side then they are reversed so what's the difference. But anyway I learn from all your posts so i am just curious. Great idea for the squeeze-out by the way.

[Gary Zimmel]

Verticals were put in first Dennis.
The two horizontal pieces have just been fitted but not glued in the pic....
I cut them close and then shoot them to get a nice snug fit.

Now cutting the horizontals and then fitting the verticals would be real wood working!

[dwoody]

Thanks. If anyone could do it horizontal then vertical, it would be you.

[Gary Zimmel]

With the last of the trim on (with no glue squeeze out ) I was able to get the last of the staining on the carcass done.
Not a lot to say but with the trim and stain she sure looks different.

stained 1.jpg

The shadow on this one is just the way the light is coming through my shop door.

stained 2.jpg

To add a little detail the front stretcher sits 1/4" back from the face trim.

stained 3.jpg

stained 4.jpg


Next on my agenda will be to make the two doors.
I was considering having a glass panel with a leaded design made for me.
However I don't want to wait 4-5 weeks to have them made or pay the 200 bucks a panel.
So we will do the doors with mutton bars that will give us six small glass panels on each door.
I'm thinking it will still add some interest and a little elegance to the piece.


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[mreza]

Looking good Gary, really good!

[Gary Zimmel]

Thanks Mo. Won't be long and I will get to try out that new HVLP.
I may have to have you come over to show me how to use it.

[mikeddd]

Looks great Gary, thanks for sharing.

[Wally in Calgary]

Thanks Mo. Won't be long and I will get to try out that new HVLP.
I may have to have you come over to show me how to use it.

Looks real good Gary -- Did you think about your shelves when designing your doors?? They will spoil the look of your doors if they don't line up with the muttons. Just asking --- FWIW.

[Gary Zimmel]

Thanks for the heads up Wally. I completley forgot about that shelve. The shelve is adjustable but I will make sure it does fall into the right place.

[Jerome]

Wow
I love your projects they always turn out so amazing.

[Gary Zimmel]

Finally got a couple of shop sessions in to get my hutch doors started.
With these having the mutton bars in them the process is a tad different for me than a straight flat panel.
My stock is down to final thickness and rails, stiles and bars cut to length.

doors 1.jpg

First trips through the table saw give me all the grooves I need.
1/4" wide and a 1/4" deep. Mutton bar parts have the groove on each side.

doors 2.jpg

Next was to do the mortises that are 3/4" deep for the rails to fit into.
1/4" bit in the mortiser that is set to the 1/4" grooves and in short order we have the holes for the main tenons.
I use the table saw again for the tenons. Test piece gets me dialed in for a snug fit.
As I did the mortises I had them set back 1/4" to accept the haunched tenons.
We will use this method to make sure we have a clean edge where the tenon goes into the mortise.
As the haunch matches the width of the groove I can use the table saw to do the haunched tenons.

doors 3.jpg

Next shop session will be to get a good start on getting the mutton bars to fit together and then to do the mortises for them.

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[dwoody]

If the shelf is adjustable it can be set so it won't be hidden behind one of the cross pieces. I made a corner cabinet years ago with a fixed shelf that was not directly behind a cross piece. It was deliberate and it doesn't bother me, but my wife thinks it is a mistake. Just food for thought. Great work as always.