can the pitting on this plane be lapped away?

[fullpampers]

I have a Stanley bailey no.4 that i want to put to use.

I've been lapping it with 50 and 80 grit on a glass place whenever i have a little time loose. I wanted to ask if the pitting can be lapped away, or if I'm doing more harm than good here.

photo(4).jpgphoto(5).jpgphoto(6).jpgphoto(7).jpgphoto(8).jpgphoto(9).jpg

[Darrell]

You can probably lap out the pitting, but you're liable to make the sole convex in the process. And get tennis elbow. And it won't affect the plane's use at all. Rub some paraffin wax on the sole and put it to work. The pitting you have there won't affect the plane's performance. Those pits are far less deep than the corrugations on a #4C.

Darrell
whose favourite jointer plane is pitted that much, and it works great...

[michaely]

Ditto Darrell's comments.

In addition, "successful" lapping that gets rid of the depth of pitting shown is going to significantly open up the throat opening in sole, which will deteriorate the performance of the plane as smoother.

The three points on the sole that need to be flat with each other are the toe, the area immediately around the throat and the heel..... the photos show the first two areas well and there appear to be flat with each other; if the heel similarly is flat with first two areas, pretend you have a corrugated sole handplane as the pitting is in a non critical area.

good luck

michael

[Arminius]

I would suggest you spend some time lapping, but don't worry about the pitting too much. The area in front of the blade is clean, as long as the other areas don't allow movement, it will work fine. A little bit of lapping on sandpaper on a flat surface (float glass, reference plate) will clean it up quite a bit.

[Egon]

Maybe use some phosphoric acid or Naval Jelly to get rid of all the rust you cannot see.

[fullpampers]

When i got the plane it was covered in rust, i dipped it in a tub of evapo-rust for a couple days, taking it out from time to time to clean it. When all the rust was gone i cleaned it thoroughly, dried it with a hair dryer, and rubbed it with beeswax. I also have a no.8 with lots of surface rust that is awaiting the same treatment. If I see in time rust comes back, I'll give naval jelly a try (I might just try it on the no.8 to see how it works out)

I lapped it some more the day before yesterday, it still has some pitting, but it doesn't seem to interfere with planing, like you guys said it wouldn't. The iron was in bad shape when i got the plane. I got it to a point where it is usable, but I'm not satisfied of how it is cutting. I'll put more work into it and see how it goes. I do have a veritas blade i could use in it too.

The only two problems i can see now, is the frog seems to be a little out of square with the sole, so to get a straight cut, i have to skew the blade a lot ( i saw another post about this recently). I'll take it out to see if i can do something to make it square. And the handle seems to spread outwards a little to the left (looking at the back of the plane) I hadn't noticed that before. I guess with time, I'll adjust my hand angle as i use it. if not I'll try to find another handle, or try my hand at making one.

Thanks!

[Cowtown_eric]

it's a #4, as common as the day is long.

Lapping it out? waste of time. Wanna get it shiney, use a stationary belt sander, after all that's how stanley put the finish on them.

Then, bright and shiney, they you can lap away with scareysharp methodology to yer hearts delight.

Someone said that you might open up the throat. well the frog is adjustable, so you can compensate for the few thou opening of the throat.

A #4 is a real good way to explore just how much you can grind away. Then when you get the !=#1 or #2 you know how much you can "get away with"

What I see in the pix wouldn't give me cause for concern though.

And besides, nobody says you have to do the rehabbing all at once.....

Make it functional, blade, chipbreaker are much more important,

Once it becomes utilitarian, and an essential part of your kit, then you are nituvated ti make it more shiney and bright.

As the architects say....form follows function.

Eric in Calgary

["TobyC"]

I lapped it some more the day before yesterday, it still has some pitting, but it doesn't seem to interfere with planing, like you guys said it wouldn't. The iron was in bad shape when i got the plane. I got it to a point where it is usable, but I'm not satisfied of how it is cutting. I'll put more work into it and see how it goes. I do have a veritas blade i could use in it too.

The only two problems i can see now, is the frog seems to be a little out of square with the sole, so to get a straight cut, i have to skew the blade a lot ( i saw another post about this recently). I'll take it out to see if i can do something to make it square. And the handle seems to spread outwards a little to the left (looking at the back of the plane) I hadn't noticed that before. I guess with time, I'll adjust my hand angle as i use it. if not I'll try to find another handle, or try my hand at making one.

You've got the idea, do what's necessary to make it work, and don't worry about the cosmetics.

Toby

[Cowtown_eric]

I concur...why bother. pretend its random corrugations!!!!

Sometimes rehabbing tools can get a tad OC, Nobody says you have to do it all at once either.

Next time the plane hits the sharpening pile, you do a tad more.

Eric in Calgary