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Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

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  • #16

    Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

    If the stairs are made the correct way (as stated above ) they will be set in a groove in the stringer with wedges it could all be glued and nailed through the stringer, the riser could be glue blocked to the tread so taking out the treads will be a mission ( can you get underneath the stairs to see how they are made) stairs are made in a way to prevent them squeaking they take a lot of load and incorrectly made stairs often move and squeak, what ever you do afterwards will need to be done so you have no problems later and if you can't get in behind them that could be difficult, with all that in mind I wouldn't be removing the treads.

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    • #17

      Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

      Originally posted by nnieman View Post

      It will take longer to remove the staples than the carpet....count on at least 2 million per tread ;)

      Nathan
      Low estimate.

      Noel

      "Being so impressed with the beauty of nature, I never cease to be amazed at how the
      'touch of the human hand' can transform it into another kind of beauty that is so uniquely human.
      "
      John Snow, Outdoorsman and Retired Teacher

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      • #18

        Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

        I would do everything possible to maintain the rise and run as it is.
        "Do it Right!"

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        • #19

          Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

          You could maintain the rise and run *and* keep the old treads if you, for example, routed/planed/chiselled/whatever a 1/4" off the top of the tread, and installed a 1/4" hardwood tread "cap" (tedious and annoying to do in place, no doubt... but... )

          I'm not recommending this, as I don't know if this is wise... I'm curious to hear from the pros on this approach.

          On the one hand, you keep the same height of the tread, but on the other hand, you're reducing the strength of the existing tread, and then hoping that the glue bond with the tread cap is at least as strong... I'm not sure if it would be. I'm also a bit concerned with laminating hardwood on top of existing softwood treads (I'm assuming under the carpet will be construction grade 2x lumber). Would that be a concern? Presumably the softwood and hardwood would expand contract differently with the seasonal moisture changes?

          --Jeff

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          • #20

            Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

            Not sure how clear I was in my post. I would remove treads and risers for sure and install new. Anything else is time consuming and a patch...
            Chris
            I only excel at fixing my my goof ups

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            • #21

              Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

              If you really want them correct take off the cappings at the side get in and cut the nails that hold the stringers to the wall and lift out the whole stairs.
              You would need to have a new set made to your liking to drop in place or you will be using a ladder, we used to say 3/4 an hour per tread to make a set of stairs I could never do it that quick and given what you are talking about it would take longer but not a difficult project just scary if you've not done stairs before, if you think it through you can use the same shape wedges for the treads as for the risers just set up the routeing jig to suit the wedge angle the tread thickness and the riser thickness, mark the stringers out as a pair or guaranteed one will be longer than the other, been there done that.
              ED McDermid likes this.

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              • #22

                Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                Building a new set of stairs is not really difficult...I would be more than happy to help you Randy...20171210_134929_Film4.jpg

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                • #23

                  Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                  The present carpet and underlay will have thickness. The new rebuild may be able to just replace this thickness.

                  After the carpet is gone and what is there is seen refinishing plans can be made.
                  Wally in Calgary likes this.
                  Egon
                  from
                  The South Shore, Nova Scotia

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                  • #24

                    Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                    If you add 3/4 of an inch to the main floor you can add 3/4 of an inch to each tread and 3/4 of an inch to the top floor and everything will be equal. if any of them change your stairs will be off.
                    nnieman likes this.
                    "Do it Right!"

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                    • #25

                      Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                      Originally posted by Rusty View Post
                      If you add 3/4 of an inch to the main floor you can add 3/4 of an inch to each tread and 3/4 of an inch to the top floor and everything will be equal. if any of them change your stairs will be off.
                      I have no plans on doing anything with the main floor or the basement floor at this juncture. The main floor (top of the stairs) is tile and will likely never be replaced. The carpet in the basement may be replaced at some point, but likely with more carpet.
                      Cheers
                      Randy

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                      • #26

                        Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                        Randy I was just pointing out what Mark had said in post #3. If everything is equal you won't notice any difference in the rise. As has been mentioned the carpet is stapled in place with or without underpad. Yank it off with pliers. The stringers are covered and stapled as well. Whatever you add, if you want consistency should not exceed the thickness of the tile on the main floor. You will have a slight difference on the bottom but you probably have that already. I always warn people about hardwood steps and how slippery they can be but you're probably aware of that already.
                        "Do it Right!"

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                        • #27

                          Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                          Originally posted by Rusty View Post
                          Randy I was just pointing out what Mark had said in post #3. If everything is equal you won't notice any difference in the rise. As has been mentioned the carpet is stapled in place with or without underpad. Yank it off with pliers. The stringers are covered and stapled as well. Whatever you add, if you want consistency should not exceed the thickness of the tile on the main floor. You will have a slight difference on the bottom but you probably have that already. I always warn people about hardwood steps and how slippery they can be but you're probably aware of that already.
                          Thanks Rusty. I hear you on the slippery part. I have had many comments to that effect. We had hardwood stairs in a previous home and it wasn't a problem for us. My wife is adamant she wants hardwood, so that's the deal. I guess if the slippery part becomes an issue, then we can consider one of those decorative centre runners.
                          Cheers
                          Randy

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                          • #28

                            Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                            It is probably worth measuring what is already there as once the carpet is gone the top riser may already be higher than the others due to those tiles as for the bottom one who knows till you measure it, also you don't notice 20mm difference when you walk on them, if it was half a tread difference then it becomes a problem.

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                            • #29

                              Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                              also you don't notice 20mm difference when you walk on them, if it was half a tread difference then it becomes a problem. [/QUOTE]

                              Not so, at my brothers home I found myself constantly getting tripped on the same step when ascending his stairs, they are tiled with wood nosing.
                              One day I decided to measure the rise on each step, the step in question was less than 1/4” higher than the others yet it was a problem.
                              20mm is just over 3/4”

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                              • #30

                                Re: Hardwood Stairs - How to get started

                                I recently tackled the same project. My staircase was made of spruce threads, risers and stringers all glue together and finally covered with carpet. I thought about removing the entire thing and starting fresh however I decided it wasn't worth the trouble.

                                Once I removed the carpet, I cut the bull nose off flush with the riser. Then added MDF skirts, MDF risers leaving a gap to slide the thread under the riser. Once all the MDF parts were complete, I sanded and sprayed. I then slide the finished pre-fitted oak threads under the risers and secured them to the original threads with PL glue, and screwed from below the staircase using shims to make sure everything was level.

                                In the end, I am very happy with the result. The top step has less rise where it meets the main floor due to me adding my threads on top of the original threads but I can't tell. Its been finished for over a year now and no creaks or gaps.

                                Here are some photos
                                Attached Files

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