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  • Cabinet question

    Just trying to work out how the boxes are constructed for these inset face frame cabinets. The vertical styles of the FF appear to be about 3 inches in width, the rails appear to be 1.5 inches with a 1 inch light valance on the bottom of the cabinets. Do the boxes sit flush with the FF beading on the sides or are they inset 3/4 of an inch. If inset what is the best approach to installing Blum soft close hinges for the doors, if the face frames are 3/4 thick it wouldn't leave much to attach the hinges too.

    Wayne
    Last edited by Wayne; 12-13-2018, 11:10 PM. Reason: Spelling
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  • #2

    Re: Cabinet question

    Originally posted by Wayne View Post
    Just trying to working out how the boxes are constructed for these inset face frame cabinets. The vertical styles of the FF appear to be about 3 inches in width, the rails appear to be 1.5 inches with a 1 inch light valance on the bottom of the cabinets. Do the boxes sit flush with the FF beading on the sides or are they inset 3/4 of an inch. If inset what is the best approach to installing Blum soft close hinges for the doors, if the face frames are 3/4 thick it wouldn't leave much to attach the hinges too.

    Wayne
    If you don't mind losing the space inside the cab then you can place the gable flush with the inside of the FF and leave a gap between the cabinets to allow for the 3" Stiles. Otherwise you only have the 3/4" FF to attach the hinge plate to or you have to build up something inside the cab for the hinge plates.
    Wayne likes this.

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    • #3

      Re: Cabinet question

      Hi Wally,

      I guess I'll have to lose the space, I think it would look better than putting in a 2 inch vertical just for hinges..

      Another question. Here is a close up, the face frame appears to be a single piece, I don't see any joins. Would that be unusual or do you think there would be a join at the upper cabinet were the clock is. -Wayne

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      • #4

        Re: Cabinet question

        Originally posted by Wayne View Post
        Hi Wally,

        I guess I'll have to lose the space, I think it would look better than putting in a 2 inch vertical just for hinges..

        Another question. Here is a close up, the face frame appears to be a single piece, I don't see any joins. Would that be unusual or do you think there would be a join at the upper cabinet were the clock is. -Wayne
        They could have been joined on the bench and the FF applied to the whole run at once. I can't tell if there's a split or not. There also could have been a split that was filled and painted afterwards.
        Some of those painted cabinets were finished on the wall ( just the FFs ) after hanging. There's many ways to do it.
        Wayne likes this.

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        • #5

          Re: Cabinet question

          There are Blum hinge plates available that will sit on the narrow frame but a bit useless as the only have the narrow frame to screw to fix and tend to flex with the strength of the hinge.
          Dependent on what you are planning you only need the 60mm mounting stile on the side of the hinge so maybe keep the division to that side of the FF surround, you have to use a cranked hinge when the doors are inset ( this is better than using big mounting blocks) if you think a big piece of wood inside the cupboard to fix hinges to is ugly then its not an issue as no one will notice, you are better to have solid mounting for those hinges so don't take short cuts.
          If the hinges are back to back as in that picture a piece of FF that width is good other wise the screws clash unless the hinges are off set then that gets more complicated.
          Just suppose the doors were overlay and 2 doors hung on an 18mm division the screws holding the base plates then hit each other unless the hinges are off set.
          I hope you follow.
          Wayne likes this.

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          • #6

            Re: Cabinet question

            I have to assume these cabinets are not in your house. If they were you could open them up and look and obviously match construction and dimensions. If all you want is the same appearance then make your cabinet boxes individually and hang them on the wall. I like to use 3/4 inch prefinished Birch plywood to make the boxes. 2 boxes together makes the connecting divider 1-1/2 inches. if you put a 3/4 inch spacer between the front corners of the two boxes that will give you 2-1/4 inches to cover with a face frame. Then make up a face frame that fits over them using Maple or Poplar. Then just hang your doors normally. If you want a wide face frame at each end of your run don't build the cabinet right into the corner. Just leave it short and put in a filler block. On the other hand the mounting plates that fit on 3/4 inch face frames are solid enough when mounted on hardwood that they won't fail. As for Bob's worry about offsetting hinges depending on how you make the boxes check out the Euro screws to use to mount the hinges. They are heavier and can be quite short and still hold. If you do as I suggest above that problem is eliminated and if you screw to the FF's it is eliminated as well.
            Wayne likes this.
            "Do it Right!"

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            • #7

              Re: Cabinet question

              +1 on Bob’s comment on the face frame mounting brackets. They work fine and mount easily enough, but they do tend to flex. I’ve used them a couple of times on built-ins without issues, but I’d be very reluctant to use them in a kitchen or other application that gets daily use.
              Tim
              Wayne and Wally in Calgary like this.

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              • #8

                Re: Cabinet question

                i can definitely see were the face frame mounting brackets could fail. I have only used them on a handful of jobs but no failures yet and they were on daily used kitchens. I would not plan to use them on any cabinet I build. I do them only on existing cabinets that require a match when adding a cabinet or two.
                Wayne likes this.
                "Do it Right!"

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                • #9

                  Re: Cabinet question

                  I am a fan of Wally's idea. If not, and you do not like the face frame hinges, you could use Soss hinges. I have done that. Awful to work with, very little adjustment, but 100% hidden.
                  Wally in Calgary and Wayne like this.

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                  • #10

                    Re: Cabinet question

                    Thanks Tim, Rusty, bob and Wally. I really like the proportions of that inset face frame cabinet so I want to match the dimensions as closely as possible. After studying the photo for a while, that rather wide FF center mullion appears to be 3 inches so I'll stick with that which means I'd need to use 2 x 3/4 inch spacers between the two cabinet boxes. I don't feel comfortable placing a hinge on the FF and I think the cabinets look better when the FF's are flush with the boxes. Unfortunately I don't have access to this kitchen as it's a photo I grabbed online. Thanks for those pointers Rusty, they pretty much line up with what I had in mind. Prefinished is a great idea, then I just have the FF's and doors to consider.

                    Wayne
                    bkrits and Wally in Calgary like this.

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                    • #11

                      Re: Cabinet question

                      Originally posted by Brad805 View Post
                      I am a fan of Wally's idea. If not, and you do not like the face frame hinges, you could use Soss hinges. I have done that. Awful to work with, very little adjustment, but 100% hidden.
                      Just Googled 'Soss hinges' - they look expensive, but very nice. I'll probably build the FF's flush to the boxes.

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                      • #12

                        Re: Cabinet question

                        Originally posted by Wayne View Post
                        Thanks Tim, Rusty, bob and Wally. I really like the proportions of that inset face frame cabinet so I want to match the dimensions as closely as possible. After studying the photo for a while, that rather wide FF center mullion appears to be 3 inches so I'll stick with that which means I'd need to use 2 x 3/4 inch spacers between the two cabinet boxes. I don't feel comfortable placing a hinge on the FF and I think the cabinets look better when the FF's are flush with the boxes. Unfortunately I don't have access to this kitchen as it's a photo I grabbed online. Thanks for those pointers Rusty, they pretty much line up with what I had in mind. Prefinished is a great idea, then I just have the FF's and doors to consider.

                        Wayne
                        It's so simple to do that Wayne. I always cut a full length strip of ply or solid wood 1-1/2 inches wide to run from the top of the box to the bottom of the box. It's super strong and great backing to fasten your face frame to as well. When you make your face frames you will probably have enough pieces left over to use.
                        "Do it Right!"

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