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How do I reattach "formica" counter topping?

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  • billh
    replied
    Originally posted by dave_k View Post

    This method works with carpenters glue as well. I use it for paper backed veneer. You roll on the glue on both surfaces and leave it overnight to dry then the next morning apply the veneer with a hot iron with a cloth interface. never had a call back or failure using this method.
    Thanks to you and bkrits for the great heat and stick tips!
    billh

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  • beachburl
    replied
    Follow-up:
    I used my "melamine edge-tape attaching iron" from my shop set at 'cotton,' and used an old T-shirt to protect the surface.
    Went slowly, but not too slowly.
    Used Talon, and One-Way Chucks, 2 bottles of Mott's Garden Cocktail, and a couple of wine bottles as weights.
    Seems to be fine.
    Thanks

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  • dave_k
    replied
    Originally posted by bkrits View Post
    Long ago when talking to a glue supplier about adhesive for shoe sole repairs he recommended standard contact adhesive but to let it dry totally then warm it with a heat gun and put the 2 parts together he told me it made the contact cement more waterproof and stronger.
    This method works with carpenters glue as well. I use it for paper backed veneer. You roll on the glue on both surfaces and leave it overnight to dry then the next morning apply the veneer with a hot iron with a cloth interface. never had a call back or failure using this method.

    Leave a comment:


  • bkrits
    replied
    Originally posted by Just another hack View Post

    This was the point I was trying to make. I have made lots of post formed tops with the long heating element, and I’ve had to redo lots of tops because they were overheated or not heated enough. The problem is if you overheat it and it pops, the top is garbage. Apparently the consensus is heat does reactivate the contact cement, so I guess it’s up to the original poster if he wants to do it. As for mixing wood glue and contact, I’ve done lots of tight radius tops with both glues and had success. When doing a postformed top with both, if it pops and has to be removed, it will have to be chipped off where the white glue is. Perhaps it’s the difference of old glue versus new glue. Don’t know...all I know is it’s worked for me
    Yes I can relate to what you were involve with, I used to be involved with the kind of shop you worked in here in NZ, one wall was covered with rejects tops it was costly when things went wrong, then I was asked to oversee the sale of all the rejects I got a big one myself I cut off the damage and had a good top, some of the rejects top I almost gave away at the time, we also had a workshop making tops from the man made composite marble type stuff we bought in from Australia and that had just as many problems.

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  • bkrits
    replied
    Long ago when talking to a glue supplier about adhesive for shoe sole repairs he recommended standard contact adhesive but to let it dry totally then warm it with a heat gun and put the 2 parts together he told me it made the contact cement more waterproof and stronger.

    Leave a comment:


  • drzaius
    replied
    Originally posted by bkrits View Post
    If you apply too much heat to formica it will burn bubble and blister, formica is made of brown paper and epoxy when they bend it called post forming they heat it using a long heat bar and timed to the second then bend it as for the upstand for a sink splash back I have seen whole tops remade because someone timed it wrongly, be careful.
    I've used a regular household iron on high heat on plastic laminate & never had any ill effects. I do use a thin cloth between it & the iron & keep the iron moving.

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  • Just another hack
    replied
    Originally posted by bkrits View Post
    If you apply too much heat to formica it will burn bubble and blister, formica is made of brown paper and epoxy when they bend it called post forming they heat it using a long heat bar and timed to the second then bend it as for the upstand for a sink splash back I have seen whole tops remade because someone timed it wrongly, be careful.
    This was the point I was trying to make. I have made lots of post formed tops with the long heating element, and I’ve had to redo lots of tops because they were overheated or not heated enough. The problem is if you overheat it and it pops, the top is garbage. Apparently the consensus is heat does reactivate the contact cement, so I guess it’s up to the original poster if he wants to do it. As for mixing wood glue and contact, I’ve done lots of tight radius tops with both glues and had success. When doing a postformed top with both, if it pops and has to be removed, it will have to be chipped off where the white glue is. Perhaps it’s the difference of old glue versus new glue. Don’t know...all I know is it’s worked for me

    Leave a comment:


  • bkrits
    replied
    If you apply too much heat to formica it will burn bubble and blister, formica is made of brown paper and epoxy when they bend it called post forming they heat it using a long heat bar and timed to the second then bend it as for the upstand for a sink splash back I have seen whole tops remade because someone timed it wrongly, be careful.

    Leave a comment:


  • RV Sam
    replied
    Originally posted by stevem View Post
    heat will reactivate old contact cement.
    use an iron on a medium setting working away from the still attached area and toward the edges
    use a stiff roller to press the laminate down while its cooling. a laminate roller is ideal, I use one when i'm fabricating laminate tops, if yopu can use your hand to press it down its not hot enough!
    That's how it is done.

    Leave a comment:


  • bkrits
    replied
    Put some turps or acetone in the joint that will soften the glue put a piece of wood over the top and cramp it for a week, it may work it depends how much contact is in there, if its all dry work in some new contact adhesive hold it open till it dries then cramp it together for 12 hours.

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  • beachburl
    replied
    Thanks Tom but we're not coffee drinkers and have no coffee maker.

    I'll ask SWMBO which of the other suggestions she'd like to attempt, and then do it.

    Will report on results in a week or two, once I've had the opportunity to see what happens.

    Thanks for the suggestions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doug G
    replied
    Originally posted by drzaius View Post

    Wood glue won't stick to old contact cement.
    Agree, in fact very few glues will stick to old dry glues. That's why I suggested trying to reactivate the old contact cement.

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  • drzaius
    replied
    Originally posted by Just another hack View Post
    I’d be wary of using heat. Don’t think it will reactivate contact cement and I know you can easily overheat the laminate and ruin it. I would just use a good wood glue like titebond 2. Glue and clamp with a block of wood or piece of plywood to spread out the pressure. Wood glue sticks to the scarified back of laminate and squeeze out is easily cleaned off the laminate face
    Wood glue won't stick to old contact cement.

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  • drzaius
    replied
    I've had success reattaching with an iron.

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  • dave_k
    replied
    I agree with what Steve said above. I use an old iron on the highest setting with a t-shirt weight rag to keep it from marking the surface. If you don't have a j roller a 2 x 4 held in your palm so you can get your weight onto the edge like a roller works and if you can get a clamp onto that block of wood before it cools even better

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