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  • Brian @ Muir
    replied
    Like the vanity idea. I agree that they make a lot of trailers to a minimum standard. I had a 14 ft cargo trailer with tandem 3500 lb axels. I sold it and ordered a 16 ft and paid extra for 5200 lb axels. Huge difference in stability when towing down the highway and am carrying no more weight than my 14 ft. I have to be careful on my goose neck trailer when hauling lumber not to get heavier than what I am licensed for. I use my Neighbor’s truck Scales that he has at his corn storage silos. Good to see you around.

    Brian

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  • mreza
    replied
    Thanks John.

    Tom, those are some good improvements.

    I know realize how they sell these rigs for so low, they are built cheaply with bare minimum things.

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  • mreza
    replied
    Jim, there is no difference between weighing the load on tongue and the axle. There are three points of contact with the ground where the load of the trailer is transferred to ground (the tongue and the two wheels). If you measure the load at each contact point, as long as you are not lifting that contact point significantly (which causes significant weight transfer to other contact points) you have measured the load at each contact point pretty accurately. It could very well that the number you get at one wheel is more than the other (e.g. if the load inside the trailer is not balanced).

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  • Kayak Jim
    replied

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  • mreza
    replied
    Originally posted by QC Inspector View Post
    Just curious if the axle is beefier to carry the extra weight does the frame also need to be beefed up too?

    Pete
    That question is a natural one to come up. As far as I could measure all trailers of this size and a bit bigger (with dual axle) have the same thickness frame.
    I admit I haven't done a detailed engineering calculations for the frame stiffness for them but I suspect the weakest link is actually axle/wheels (and they still have a safety margin).
    Now just to put things in perspective, although I changed the axle/wheel from 3500lb to 6000lb (with a hitch load of around 500lb, for a total of under 4000lb) I am fairly confident I won't be loading the trailer above the 4500lb. I just didn't like the idea of having a blown tire on a single axle trailer at highway speed (I've experienced it once with a cargo trailer and it's not fun).

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  • beakie
    replied
    Oh yes, the stock bumper is mostly for looks, and carrying your sewage pipe.

    I opted for two 18" receiver hitches from Princess Auto, welded them under the frame & bumper. Added some thicker plates to the bumper so it had more material to weld too. Some angle iron bridging the frame & added hitches, with the side benefit of lowering the corner jacks for the back end.

    With this setup from day one, we have carried 4 bikes and about 50lbs of "stuff" in that box, from GTA to the East Coast and back, upto Thunder Bay, countless Ontario Prov Parks... about ~20,000km total with no issues.

    See additional pics, and sorry to hijack your thread.


    IMG_20200713_172614_copy_2000x1500.jpg
    IMG_20200713_172642_copy_2000x1500.jpg

    IMG_20200713_172652_copy_2000x1500.jpg

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  • John Bartley
    replied
    Great work Mo. And, nice weighing jig. The notches for the pipes makes it easier to use.

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  • QC Inspector
    replied
    Just curious if the axle is beefier to carry the extra weight does the frame also need to be beefed up too?

    Pete

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  • mreza
    replied
    Thanks Steve, yes cargo carrying capacity. Yes, our trailer sits lower and has only one step, and we are fairly light weight people so nothing I felt needed change but yours looks like a good upgrade.
    I had added a 100w solar panel a couple of years ago but this year added two more (so 300W total), changed the battery, made the upper bunk better/wider, changed the mattress on it, etc. In one of our trips I tried to mount 3 bikes to the bumper and upon arrival noticed how thin the bumper metal is actually. It had started to tear the actual metal around the welds (so on the way back bikes were secured inside the trailer). Next step is to change the thin metal bumper to something beefier and secure it properly (like a hitch) to the frame with a few strong bolts (just like a car hitch).

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  • schor
    replied

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  • beakie
    replied
    IMG_20200713_165352_copy_2000x1500.jpg

    IMG_20200713_165400_copy_2000x1500.jpg

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  • mreza
    replied
    20200605_093400.jpg 20200605_112227.jpg 20200605_101008.jpg
    Next thing was to change the kitchen tiny little sink into a bigger one. The old sink then made out to a vanity I added to the bathroom, which only had a toilet and a shower.
    Due to lack of space I made the vanity swing over the toilet or the shower base depending on which is going to be used:

    20200607_154547.jpg 20200607_154526.jpg
    There are a couple of magnets/latch to hold it whatever position. There is an extra bungee cord to secure it while driving so it doesn't bounce left/right.

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  • mreza
    started a topic Trailer upgrades

    Trailer upgrades

    20200518_123357.jpg 20200518_123402.jpg 20200518_142811.jpg
    I figured my accuracy/error is about 1% which is pretty good (based on the change in the value measured after filling the water thanks).
    So definitely I was very close to the limit when loaded (if not slightly overloading it). So decided to change the axle/spring/wheels.
    Ordered a new axle/spring/wheel set and, after giving it a new coat of paint, the change over was pretty straight forward.

    20200604_115331.jpg 20200604_131604.jpg
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