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  • #16

    Re: Non graded lumber

    Steel studs come in different weights. (Thicker webs and flanges) Commercial projects usually use the heavier version, even if the wall is not loadbearing, because it may not be known at the time of construction what will be attached to the finished wall. For example, shelving in a retail store. Where the walls are loadbearing an engineer would specify the studs to be used in a commercial building. These heavier studs are not a typical item at a lumber yard. The lighter version should be plenty strong enough for a residential application. (Unless you know you are going to say attach wall cabinets to hold very heavy items. even then you could reduce the stud spacing)

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    • #17

      Re: Non graded lumber

      My intro to steel was working with a friend that does commercial interiors. On that job it was 14 ft ceilings in a strip mall and he added two rows of stiffener channels. They were 25 gauge studs separating two businesses in a strip mall and were done with a building permitThese Stiffeners slide into a knock out on the steel studs. They add rigidity to the wall and spread any stress across the face of the wall. I have hung many cabinets from steel studs in office environments. When attaching cabinets to steel studs I use a toggle type fastener called Toggler and place them right into thr flange of the stud and they were 25 gauge studs. If you are concerned about strength you can always go with a 20 gauge and they will give you a wall that you can hang anything from. I always line any door or window openings with 2x lumber just to make it easier to trim.
      If your dreams don't scare you, you are not dreaming big enough

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      • #18

        Re: Non graded lumber

        Originally posted by Inspector Ron View Post
        The lighter version should be plenty strong enough for a residential application. (Unless you know you are going to say attach wall cabinets to hold very heavy items. even then you could reduce the stud spacing)
        This is a good reason to spec plywood under drywall in new construction kitchens and bathrooms and any other room that you may be attaching heavy objects to.

        beachburl likes this.

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        • #19

          Re: Non graded lumber

          What thickness, John?
          Noel

          "Being so impressed with the beauty of nature, I never cease to be amazed at how the
          'touch of the human hand' can transform it into another kind of beauty that is so uniquely human.
          "

          John Snow, Outdoorsman and Retired Teacher

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          • #20

            Re: Non graded lumber

            Originally posted by beachburl View Post
            What thickness, John?
            I'm not a building expert, but personally I'd probably be happy with 1/2" as a minimum. When we installed cabinets that we built during my two years in a cabinet shop, we installed them into the coarse screw-in drywall anchors that are available at any hardware store. That would only be in addition to finding a stud, OR if we couldn't get to a stud. Most of what we did was gov't installs, estimated for a five year life span. Given how much those anchors into frywall could hold, I would think that 1/2 ply would be more than enough.

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            • #21

              Re: Non graded lumber

              We are very lucky in my area as we have some great local contractors. The last kitchen I did in Norwich was a new build. I spoke to builder as it was being framed and they installed a ribbon of 2x4 for the upper and base cabinets. Sure avoids looking for studs. Did a kitchen a few years back on new construction where the builder, as a matter of course , had 1/2 inch plywood behind Kitchen,closet and bathroom walls. This was done solely to assist with the installation of cabinets, closet rods etc. This builder also painted the floor sheathing as he claimed it helped in controlling dust when the homeowner took possession.
              John Bartley likes this.
              If your dreams don't scare you, you are not dreaming big enough

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              • #22

                Re: Non graded lumber

                Originally posted by Steve in Ayr View Post
                Could somebody explain the rationale for requiring graded lumber to hold up drywall and paint.
                While you may be only holding up drywall and paint the next person who owned the house may need something stronger for support. You say that the lumber you have is ok but I may want to use crap if I was to do it by the Building code specifying graded lumber at least we have a known minimum standard.
                Jerome
                Canada's South Coast

                Port Colborne On.
                CARPENTER noun. (car-pun-ter)
                1) A person who solves problems you can't.
                2) One who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data, provided by those of questionable knowledge. see also: wizard, magician.

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                • #23

                  Re: Non graded lumber

                  For years and maybe still is framing ( graded ) lumber was allowed 10% utility grade . I'm not against standards but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know the difference between a good piece of structurally sound lumber and one that isn't.
                  Bob just past Ayr likes this.

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                  • #24

                    Re: Non graded lumber

                    If you see some of the people that come into our lumber yard you would understand why they have to use graded lumber.
                    Jerome
                    Canada's South Coast

                    Port Colborne On.
                    CARPENTER noun. (car-pun-ter)
                    1) A person who solves problems you can't.
                    2) One who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data, provided by those of questionable knowledge. see also: wizard, magician.

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                    • #25

                      Re: Non graded lumber

                      Originally posted by Steve in Ayr View Post
                      Could somebody explain the rationale for requiring graded lumber to hold up drywall and paint.
                      If you used wood full of unstable knots or punky wood you could tap the wall and destroy it. Hence why the grading so the wood isn’t below this minimum standard. Now if you use ungraded wood over the studs that probably is fine so a board might fall off but the wall won’t fall over.

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