Re: Top 10 Underrated Tools

[callee]

callee Have you ever tried to use an old plastic gift/membership/credit card for any of those applications?

No, never tried one of those. I imagine it would probably work just as well, though. The aluminum might be a bit more durable than plastic over the long run, maybe. I think I really just grabbed the aluminum though because, as usual, we were out on an island in the middle of the bay, and out there you tend to find ways to work with what you have. Also, I think mrs. callee would probably want me to my a gym membership card to better use!

[Randy in Calgary]

Thanks.

I’ve got a few items that have reworked brass or copper plumbing items in use.

Most of my turning tools have shop made handles. I used brass plumbing fittings as ferrules on several of them. Fairly easy to machine the corners off and make them round with HSS wood turning tools as long as you take your time. I finished them up with a fine file and progressively finer sandpaper. Copper pipe works just as well and requires no machining.

[KenL]

I liked Rob's original list of tools and thought I would have a go at my own list:

1. Boston pencil sharpener and LV H pencils (two things I know but they work together as a tool)
2. Small saddle square
3. Coffee stir sticks (epoxy mixers/glue applicators/clean up tools/etc; often used with alterations effected by #8 following))
4. Small brass try square (mine is shop-made)
5. Block planes (any/all of the many; another combo but I use these things all the time and cannot choose a favourite!)
6. Pencil gauge
7. 12 & 18 inch stainless steel flexible rulers
8. Utility and X-Acto knives (go to tools that get very regular use)
9. Adjustable combination square
10. Small back saws/bench hook combination

These guys don't receive the attention that good planes, chisels, saws etc. get but they are used the most frequently in my woodworking endeavours. It was too hard to pick only 10 items out of the horde so I listed combinations as tools since that is how I use them!

Ken

[smallerstick]

Stir sticks as has been noted plus popsicle sticks and tongue depressors for such a variety of tasks; mixing glue/sawdust, epoxy, glue spreading.......
Painters tape. How can we live in the shop without it?
my 4" combo square and double square.
Skew block plane

[Jacques Leclerc]

Dental pics.... Don't laugh, I used them a lot to remove the crap off the set screws on my turning tools, Somebody on this forum was giving them away a few yrs ago, I wish I had kept his name, could use some more. lol..
Jacques

[davezedlee]

Camera phone, so i can remember how i set my jigs up last time

Shop blower or can of compressed air

Those short Bessey metal clamps with the 4” throat, all four of them

2” wide chisel

High beam bike headlight, cuz i’m going blind

12 gauge extension cord

1/2” foam insulation to stand on when on a concrete floor

Toe warmer packs for when its -15C in the garage

[Doug G]

Maybe not all tools but useful items.
Block of paraffin wax to lubricate screws when screwing into hardwoods or to lubricate drill bits or band saw blades
Wooden stir sticks to spread glue on small glue ups or mortices or mix epoxy
Wire cutters (side cutters) to cut the glue covered end off the wooden stir stick if I forget to wipe the glue off before it dries
Yogurt container lid to mix small batches of epoxy
Used prescription bottles to store small screws, router chucks etc.
Elastic bands for small glue ups.
Magnets for holding drill press chuck keys, posting notes, finding metal in workpieces, picking up dropped screws (magnets with extension holders)
Hooks in the ceiling to keep hoses and cords off the floor and avoid tripping

[flairwoodworks [OP]]

7. 12 & 18 inch stainless steel flexible rulers

What do you use them for? I’ve never thought of an application for a flexible rule to justify buying one.

[al.m..]

Tooth brush,apron plane,shark guard

[KenL]

What do you use them for? I’ve never thought of an application for a flexible rule to justify buying one.

I use Wescott brand rules which are very high quality made in USA tools. The cork backing makes them non-slip in use, especially so to use as a cutting/trimming guide for veneers, balsa, tape, etc. They are the best thing ever for measuring and layout on compound curves such as wing ribs; fuselages; boat and canoe frames (a 24 inch is particularly useful for the latter task) and are versatile layout and set-up tools for the table saw, lathe (a 6 inch is really handy at the metal lathe and there are occasions when the 4 inch one that I got from LV is even better suited) and so on. I have quite a few measuring tools but these Wescott rules are the most often used of the lot. They can substitute for French curves in gentle curved applications such as one finds in paddle blades and canoe frames too.

Does that illuminate the situation. Oh, and they are very accurate as well.

Ken

[Jerome]

So to add to the laser level I mentioned before here is what else I would suggest not ten but what I can think of.

1. Papermate Sharpwriter Mechanical Pencil has a shock-absorbing tip so leads don’t break and always sharp.
2. 6 “ Precision Double Square
3. Miter Square.
4. Fien multi-tool

[flairwoodworks [OP]]

KenL Your applications do make sense. When I’m working with curved surfaces, I usually am not concerned with drawing straight lines or making precise layout. I suppose that’s why I’ve never seen a need for one.

For cutting veneer, I like my heavy steel straightedge.

[flairwoodworks [OP]]

[*]Papermate Sharpwriter Mechanical Pencil has a shock-absorbing tip so leads don’t break and always sharp.

Wasn’t aware of this pencil. They’re cheap! $6.99... for a dozen!

https://www.staples.ca/products/2780...il-07mm-12pack

[Randy in Calgary]

Wasn’t aware of this pencil. They’re cheap! $6.99... for a dozen!

https://www.staples.ca/products/2780...il-07mm-12pack

They are plastic and disposable which would be a show stopper for me. There is a hack on YouTube that shows how you can replace the lead and eraser.

[KenL]

They are plastic and disposable which would be a show stopper for me. There is a hack on YouTube that shows how you can replace the lead and eraser.

I agree wholeheartedly Randy! The 0.7mm lead is rather coarse too. I find that mechanical pencils with the 0.5mm lead are not the best in the shop because the lines are too coarse, especially for small parts (I have "professional"" quality draughtsman's pencils of this type and only use them for hack jobs/sketches!). I confess that I didn't know there was a YouTube "hack" to figure out how to pull the eraser out of a mechanical pencil; who knew!

Ken