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  • #16

    Re: Dead Water Heater

    For a multitude of reasons, and I looked and consulted a lot of pros on this, no tankless for me. They're also not the energy saving devices manufacturers claim they are as well versus tank units. There's a lot of tanked units nowadays that are so efficient that they rarely run out of hot water. We just swapped out an old 32 year old John Woods 40 gal two years ago for a 50 gal Bradford Whte and have yet to have a situation where the water available was running cool even after all three of us have taken showers baths sequentially. The JW model was still working, but I knew being that old it could disastruously go anytime, so when our A/C needed replacing and we knew the furnace was inadequate that got thrown in by the previous owner 20 years ago, we did all three at once. What a difference all around, especially the furnace. No more cold rooms upstairs. For the furnace and A/C we went with Daikin. They had a 12 year non-pro-rated warranty, no others we had quoted had that long.

    But back to your heater. Our Bradford White has a 10 year warranty we just had installed a couple of years ago. Have you checked to see that yours is not still under warranty? I don't even think BW is a primo brand for water heaters. I would have maybe liked a Smith, but the company we were going with didn't offer that brand and they were much more expensive, but their tanked heaters are actually true continuous supply rated water heaters when sized properly IIRC.

    https://www.aosmith.com/About/Brands/

    Failing that. have you tried calling around different water heating companies that sell/install them and try to pick their brains for free? Or even try calling the manufacturer in that regard and see what they say. Seems strange you have some kind of error coding that is not identified in the owner's manual.

    You may want to try the Ridgid Plumbing Forum site as a resource. It's almost all real pros on there, and there is a lot of discussion about water heaters. I read a lot on tankless stuff there years ago in addition to consulting plumbing guys I knew personally about tankless stuff. I was hell bent on getting a tankless for years for when we were to replace our old water heater, but I did eventually change my mind.
    Last edited by Lost in the Woods; 03-17-2019, 10:37 AM.
    Kevin

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    • #17

      Re: Dead Water Heater

      Originally posted by Lost in the Woods View Post
      There's a lot of tanked units nowadays that are so efficient that they rarely run out of hot water..
      This is what we found also. Instead of the tankless unit, we went with a Rheem,poly tank, super insulated electric unit of 40gal CDN size. This unit had the best energy rating of any electric heater that we could find.

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      • #18

        Re: Dead Water Heater

        Originally posted by John Bartley View Post

        This is what we found also. Instead of the tankless unit, we went with a Rheem,poly tank, super insulated electric unit of 40gal CDN size. This unit had the best energy rating of any electric heater that we could find.
        And that's another good point I failed to mention, gas units are way more efficient than electric units. We have gas for everything we can.

        As clothes dryers are especially nice. Your clothes don't tend to come out blistering hot to the touch almost scorched. The heat from being done with gas I think is a humid heat and doesn't 'cook' your clothes. At least that's what I perceive between the two types of gas and electric dryers.

        I'm looking at installing an outdoor sauna for wifey this summer. Leaning there also heavily to a gas unit versus the much more commonly installed electric sauna heaters. Harder to find gas units, more expensive initially also, but the ongoing heating cost is a lot cheaper, they tend to last a lot longer, and they also take a lot less time to heat up than electric units.
        Kevin

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        • #19

          Re: Dead Water Heater

          Lets switch to suana's lol.. I have had one for 30 + years. There is really nothing wrong with an electric unit for the run time they need. Insulate it really well as no need to go to large in sq feet. Line it with a heavy tinfoil material before you put on the ceder. Once heated to the area of 160F with an electric takes less then 30 minutes. Then you go in for 10 minutes. Come out for 10 minutes. In for 10 out for 10, in for 10 and your done. If you open the door and get in and out fast the unit won't kick in that many times. I add water only for the last 3 to 5 minutes as the humidity is going to go from almost none to 99% in seconds and you will think you are going to catch fire, lol. The temp actually drops a little. The ones you can play in that are in hotels etc will not let the heat get high enough to actually have a real sauna bath. They are afraid of people dropping dead. Once you come out on the last session you can roll in the snow or break the ice on your pool and slip in. Best money i ever spent. Anyway, sorry got off topic, if the gas unit and the pipe line is more then an electric unit you'll never recoup your money as it does not run that long.

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          • #20

            Re: Dead Water Heater

            Originally posted by RV Sam View Post
            Lets switch to suana's lol.. I have had one for 30 + years. There is really nothing wrong with an electric unit for the run time they need. Insulate it really well as no need to go to large in sq feet. Line it with a heavy tinfoil material before you put on the ceder. Once heated to the area of 160F with an electric takes less then 30 minutes. Then you go in for 10 minutes. Come out for 10 minutes. In for 10 out for 10, in for 10 and your done. If you open the door and get in and out fast the unit won't kick in that many times. I add water only for the last 3 to 5 minutes as the humidity is going to go from almost none to 99% in seconds and you will think you are going to catch fire, lol. The temp actually drops a little. The ones you can play in that are in hotels etc will not let the heat get high enough to actually have a real sauna bath. They are afraid of people dropping dead. Once you come out on the last session you can roll in the snow or break the ice on your pool and slip in. Best money i ever spent. Anyway, sorry got off topic, if the gas unit and the pipe line is more then an electric unit you'll never recoup your money as it does not run that long.
            While I don't want to steal this thread either Sam, I really appreciate your sauna comments. I may PM or tag you with a future thread I may start on this subject for more insights when I get to the actual build and final decisions which likely will be sometime this summer. I've already got the footings in place and the lumber sitting in my yard and would have gotten to the actual structural build last fall, but winter came fast at us and I chose to finish a small lean-to build I also had on the go instead so I could store my snow blower closer to my driveway rather than drag it from the backyard.

            But in regards to installation costs, my gas is already right near where the sauna will be and I have a gas fitter buddy who I contra other work for that will do it for nothing except for materials costs. Getting another 6/3 line there is possible, and I also have another buddy who is an electrician who also does work for contra for free also, so I could go either way really, but I'm really leaning towards gas.

            Maybe I'll start another thread on this sooner rather than later for my sauna build. I'm in my busy office work season til mid June at the earliest, but I should maybe start lining my ducks up early on this build. Hope you'll join me when I do start that thread, and thanks again for chiming in. I wondered whether anybody here on this forum had done sauna stuff and now I know there is at least one member who has.

            Kevin

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