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  • stevem
    replied
    thanks for that don.
    yeah I think I know how to use a jointer!!

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Originally posted by Don Burch View Post


    Some paint and pitch will clog, but you shouldn’t be sanding that crap any way.
    The drum and hooks are plastic. Unlike the metal drums found on conventional sanders, these would fail under pressure and heat.
    Don
    In post 12 you said it was meant for glue and resin so I was curious. Obviously I have never seen one of these but other experiences with drums have not been encouraging. On belts we use oscillation.
    Rob

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  • Don Burch
    replied
    Originally posted by iamtooler View Post

    why will the paper not clog?
    Centrifugal force raises the hook & loop paper off the drum allowing the paper to flex as it contacts the wood. The paper goes from round to flat while abrading and back to round as soon as the paper leaves the work. Kind of flicks the dust off. Like a flap wheel.
    Some paint and pitch will clog, but you shouldn’t be sanding that crap any way.
    The drum and hooks are plastic. Unlike the metal drums found on conventional sanders, these would fail under pressure and heat.
    Don

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Originally posted by Don Burch View Post

    No tear out based on feed direction? You are sanding, not cutting.
    why will the paper not clog?

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  • Don Burch
    replied
    Originally posted by iamtooler View Post

    Why not?
    No tear out based on feed direction? You are sanding, not cutting.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Originally posted by Don Burch View Post

    This thing is meant for glue, resin and end grain.

    The sleeper is the amount of resistance you need to overcome when feeding. Because the paper does not clog, each subsequent pass flattens the surface creating more contact, more resistance.
    Unlike jointers, you can feed your work in whatever direction you please without fear of tear-out.

    Don
    Why not?

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  • Don Burch
    replied
    Originally posted by stevem View Post
    primarily end grain cutting boards
    I realise there's going to be a steep learning curve, but with end grain, direction of feed doesn't matter
    This thing is meant for glue, resin and end grain.
    Let us know how it goes for you.
    If you look at some of YouTube videos it is quite simple.
    If you can run a jointer, you can run a v-drum. The only learning curve is feed rate, keeping the outfeed pressure consistent. With respect to feeding, once you commit keep going, make adjustments on the next pass. Any rocking can create undesirable coves which require a few more passes to remove. Just like a jointer.
    The sleeper is the amount of resistance you need to overcome when feeding. Because the paper does not clog, each subsequent pass flattens the surface creating more contact, more resistance.
    Unlike jointers, you can feed your work in whatever direction you please without fear of tear-out.

    Don

    Leave a comment:


  • Carlosinthesticks
    replied
    Originally posted by iamtooler View Post

    Sanding uses surface friction unlike planing that slices the wood so power belt sanders use a rubber conveyor table rather than feed rolls on top to pull the wood through.
    Just a clarification. Friction is not the action that removes wood in a sanding operation. The action is the same as planing, the knives are just so much smaller, and produce tiny shavings called dust. Different sanding mediums cut better and last longer than others because the material edges dull slower at which point it is time to change the sanding medium. Think of sanding medium as having many thousands of tiny spiral head inserts.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Originally posted by mike66 View Post
    Just curious and I don’t mean to hijack Steve’s thread and I am certainly no Mathias Wendell but is there a way someone could take an old cheap lunchbox planer and change the head for a sanding head and make a small sander for things like cutting boards. I apologize if this is a stupid idea.

    Mike
    Sanding uses surface friction unlike planing that slices the wood so power belt sanders use a rubber conveyor table rather than feed rolls on top to pull the wood through.

    Leave a comment:


  • Carlosinthesticks
    replied
    Originally posted by mike66 View Post
    Just curious and I don’t mean to hijack Steve’s thread and I am certainly no Mathias Wendell but is there a way someone could take an old cheap lunchbox planer and change the head for a sanding head and make a small sander for things like cutting boards. I apologize if this is a stupid idea.

    Mike
    As they say Mike "There are no stupid ideas, just ideas that need more refining". OK maybe they don't say that, but I do. I see a few problems with the idea, drum heads are larger diameter to extend the life of the sand medium, small planers have small head room, you wood be changing paper alot, the enclosed head would make changing sanding medium a pain in the back. you would need to set up good DC, with the drive components all enclosed in the head including the motor, things would clog up pretty quickly.

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  • mike66
    replied
    Just curious and I don’t mean to hijack Steve’s thread and I am certainly no Mathias Wendell but is there a way someone could take an old cheap lunchbox planer and change the head for a sanding head and make a small sander for things like cutting boards. I apologize if this is a stupid idea.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott Walsh
    replied
    If you're patient, you can find a 26" dual drum sander on Kijiji for less than $500. I've seen at least two come up for sale this year.

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  • John@Hamilton
    replied
    Had one, gave it away.
    John

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  • Don Burch
    replied
    I have owned a 30 inch Flatmaster since shortly after they were introduced along with several fences and hold downs. Handfeeding a rough 10 to 12 inche board into a 120 grit roller takes some strength and traction as losing control of your feed can lead to some gouging. It surfaces just as the jointer does. It is better if you have a few extra inches on one end to help establish a reference surface to focus pressure onto the out feed table.
    Like the jointer, aka surfacer, this sander is not meant for accurate thicnessing.

    Don

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  • stevem
    replied
    primarily end grain cutting boards
    I realise there's going to be a steep learning curve, but with end grain, direction of feed doesn't matter

    Leave a comment:

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