Re: Used Unisaw

[DavidR8 [OP]]

52'' rails or 52'' cut to right of blade? I do not like to have to walk around very wide saws to collect the cut off pieces but 52'' rails would be a shame to cut down.
Rob

The measuring tape on the fence rail goes to 52 in.
The saw was in a sign shop so they dealt with sheet goods all the time.


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[DavidR8 [OP]]

Looks rough, but at that price, nobody would mind putting some hours into cleaning it up. Can it be fitted with a Shark guard?

Funny you mention that as I was looking at those last night.
I think it can be fitted with one.


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[DavidR8 [OP]]

David if that saw has steel handles on the up, down and tilt wheels it is the same vintage as mine. The first pic looked like black handles. Please don't mess with that fence, if you got the unfence with the saw, in terms of replacement until you actually know all of it's features. I don't have one but it is a damn good fence. Slides and flips etc. You will learn to love it.

It has steel blade adjustment wheels and a cast base.

I am sure it's a great fence I just can'’t deal with the length of the rail, my shop is too small. I do need to get rid of a bunch of crap though.

I will mount it up and see how it goes.

Wonder if there's anyone who wants a longer rail?

[drzaius]

I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to cut the rails down. I went from a 52" to a 36" and like it so much better. Even if I had a much bigger shop I'd still go with the shorter rails. But that's me in my shop. Every case is different.

[DavidR8 [OP]]

I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to cut the rails down. I went from a 52" to a 36" and like it so much better. Even if I had a much bigger shop I'd still go with the shorter rails. But that's me in my shop. Every case is different.

Thanks drzaius. What did you use to cut the rails?

[Rusty]

One of the reasons I'm saying don't cut the rail is most people never stop to consider the fence before they start cutting. Lots of fences are made like "T" squares and require some rail to extend to the right to fasten to. DON'T FORGET TO CONSIDER THIS or you will diminish the usability of your machine. Secondly you need rail to the left of the blade as well, in particular to cut long bevels safely on a right tilt saw. You move the fence to the right side of the blade. Once again the "T" square comes into play.

Thirdly, with tongue in cheek, If you wanted a "toy" saw you could have bought one. Sorry Frank, Just kidding! David a lot does depend on what you plan to do in terms of projects etc. so maybe wait a bit before you cut it to see which direction you will go and by the way you may even put a router on the left or right side of the blade and use your saw fence in conjunction with a router fence.

[DavidR8 [OP]]

One of the reasons I'm saying don't cut the rail is most people never stop to consider the fence before they start cutting. Lots of fences are made like "T" squares and require some rail to extend to the right to fasten to. DON'T FORGET TO CONSIDER THIS or you will diminish the usability of your machine. Secondly you need rail to the left of the blade as well, in particular to cut long bevels safely on a right tilt saw. You move the fence to the right side of the blade. Once again the "T" square comes into play.

Thirdly, with tongue in cheek, If you wanted a "toy" saw you could have bought one. Sorry Frank, Just kidding! David a lot does depend on what you plan to do in terms of projects etc. so maybe wait a bit before you cut it to see which direction you will go and by the way you may even put a router on the left or right side of the blade and use your saw fence in conjunction with a router fence.

Thanks Rusty I totally hear what you are saying. I actually made the fence on my Beaver 2200 so I'm aware of many of the considerations.

It is not the current Unifence as far as I can tell as it does not have the large parallel adjustment screws on the body, just two allen bolts.

Regarding bevels: I'm not sure what you mean about using the fence on the left side of the blade for bevels as it's a one-sided fence (I actually don't like this) and putting on the left side of the blade won't help me cut bevels.

I'm considering all options as I don't want to mess this up. All I can tell you is that I bought this saw because I needed something larger than my Beaver 2200 and the recently purchased Rockwell 6201, which are likely fall into the "toy saw" category in your eyes.

I rarely wrestle full sheets of ply etc. on the saw as I prefer to cut them using my straightedge and Skilsaw. So my need to crosscut a 4x8 sheet is zero. I think you would also suggest that a panel saw is the preferred way to go about this anyway.

I will say that my garage is only 20 ft x 18 ft. and has a pillar smack dab on the middle. I could take out the pillar but I'd have to install a steel I-beam. Like most of us, space is at a premium. So a saw that is over 8 ft wide is a real challenge to deal with in a small space.

I'm also dealing with the detritus from the prior occupant of the garage so until I can sort that out I'm a bit stuck.

[drzaius]

Thanks drzaius. What did you use to cut the rails?

I didn't actually cut them, I got a new saw with shorter rails

[DavidR8 [OP]]

I didn't actually cut them, I got a new saw with shorter rails

Gotcha! Thanks.

[Doug G]

Maybe you should try to source a shorter rail and once you have it put your longer rail on the market. Would give you time to evaluate whether the long rail can work for you and if not you might come out ahead if your rail sells for more than the one you buy. You might even find someone with the short rail that wants a long rail.

[Rusty]

David if you add a jig with a flat face to your rail it might work, I/we need a pic of your fence to help with that. The trouble with long bevels is the offcuts that could kick out like an arrow. It's sort of a long story how to do it safely. If you absolutely need the info i'm sure I could post my thoughts which will be argued as they were in the past but I KNOW it works safely.

[DavidR8 [OP]]

David if you add a jig with a flat face to your rail it might work, I/we need a pic of your fence to help with that. The trouble with long bevels is the offcuts that could kick out like an arrow. It's sort of a long story how to do it safely. If you absolutely need the info i'm sure I could post my thoughts which will be argued as they were in the past but I KNOW it works safely.

Hi Rusty, I totally understand the dangers of bevel cuts that trap the work between the blade, table and fence.

Reading the Unifence manual it looks like the aluminum part of the fence can be installed on the right side of the fence mechanism which would allow for safe bevels with the right tilt.

[Rusty]

David that's what I thought but you confused the issue by saying you didn't think it was the newer one.

[DavidR8 [OP]]

David that's what I thought but you confused the issue by saying you didn't think it was the newer one.

Sorry,
I could only find a manual for the new style fence so so I could be completely wrong that the first generation fence will flip.

[Rusty]

David you have the newer fence if it's the same as the pics in your post #27. The old style fence was on tubular rails and it was basically a steel 1 x 3.