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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Thanks Wally in Calgary that's perfect!

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  • Wally in Calgary
    replied
    Matched belts are cheap and yes they are necessary for complete power transfer. Go to a Motor or Fan supply shop and get them. The last time I got them they were around $15.

    Click image for larger version

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    I took some time last night to dig into the wiring. Turns out I needed to look into the junction box instead. It was simple to change, took less than five minutes. Now I just need to get the correct plug and receptacle.

    I also pulled the top off. Everything underneath looked factory fresh. The motor and arbour bearings are smooth and silent without a trace of play. I brushed and vacuumed sawdust from every nook and cranny I could reach. Used a brass brush to clean the worm gears and pinions. Applied some paste wax to them and now the blade raises and tilts with almost no effort.


    Oh and the belts are toast! I saw a post about a source for belts but I can't find it now. If I recall correctly it said matched belts were unnecessary.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Can you tell the wire colours apart? You can infer that the two on the same post are red and yellow but why do we not see the two going to the switch?
    Rob

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    mbchrapko That would be ideal. Will have to see what I find.

    On a seperate note I need to switch the motor to 110 v till I get 22 v run into my shop.

    Anyone know how to interpret this diagram against what's inside the motor wiring compartment?


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  • mbchrapko
    replied
    If you end up looking to trade for a shorter rail, you could end up wth the newer model of that rail which has additional extrusions that allow positioning anywhere you like. Click image for larger version

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by mbchrapko View Post
    David, you might consider cutting your rail in half and using the off cut on the back.
    I have done this with a 120” rail and it makes a good attachment point for an outfeed and/or extension table. Sounds like 41-1/2” rails might be right for your application.
    Thanks, I put the rail back on the saw today. I tried the second set of holes in the rail as I was hoping that maybe I could shift the fence to the left by 10 in. or so. No luck as they are mis-aligned by about 1/8" so only only one of the two bolts will thread in.

    I don't really have the space for a 40 in. extension and supporting outfeed table unless the outfeed folds down which is a possibility. But that still leaves me wondering why or if I'd ever try to crosscut the middle of a 8 ft. sheet.

    I may end up cutting the rail down (or trading it for a shorter rail) but I want to get the saw set up and running before I make that decision.

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  • mbchrapko
    replied
    David, you might consider cutting your rail in half and using the off cut on the back.
    I have done this with a 120” rail and it makes a good attachment point for an outfeed and/or extension table. Sounds like 41-1/2” rails might be right for your application.

    Leave a comment:


  • DavidR8
    replied
    I found a picture.

    I think I'm missing the grey angle iron seen under the table in this photo. I have the one for the front but not the back.
    Looks like a trip to the metal supplier is in order.

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  • al.m..
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	11.4 KB ID:	1253239
    Originally posted by DavidR8 View Post
    Sorry, I may have been unclear in the reason for my question.
    Context: the front rail for my Unifence came with a length of angle iron which is designed to support the front edge of the side extension table. The angle iron is part of the fence kit.

    It seems to me the the back edge of the extension table needs similar support or it will sag.

    I cannot find a single photo of the rear of a Unisaw with a Unifence and extension table.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    i believe what that is about,the angle iron is to support one end of a extention to the side,or a out feed. It would be bolted to the appropriate side,or rear that you want the extention( or out feed) to extend from,at a height that ,when the extention is attached will be flush or a few tho below the saws surface. The two corners of the extention opposite of the side supported by the angle iron should be supported by legs
    Last edited by al.m..; 09-28-2019, 10:32 PM.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Sorry, I may have been unclear in the reason for my question.
    Context: the front rail for my Unifence came with a length of angle iron which is designed to support the front edge of the side extension table. The angle iron is part of the fence kit.

    It seems to me the the back edge of the extension table needs similar support or it will sag.

    I cannot find a single photo of the rear of a Unisaw with a Unifence and extension table.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post

    Why Rob? You don't need any back support if the side extensions are bolted to the side of the cast iron table top and set on legs at the outside back and front corners and for outfeed tables they don't have to attach at all. Mine is free standing and works perfectly and also allows me to move it all easily if I want to.
    Because if it came with any other fence there would be a back rail for the fence from the factory.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Originally posted by iamtooler View Post

    You had best ask for pic from a unisaw that came new with a unifence!
    Why Rob? You don't need any back support if the side extensions are bolted to the side of the cast iron table top and set on legs at the outside back and front corners and for outfeed tables they don't have to attach at all. Mine is free standing and works perfectly and also allows me to move it all easily if I want to.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Even on uni fence models?

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  • Wally in Calgary
    replied
    Originally posted by iamtooler View Post
    So the extensions were only held along their sides? The HD shaper uses the same extensions IIRC, pretty vulnerable to breaking.
    Rob
    Most people added an outfeed table with some kind of rear support but the only thing on the rear of the tables that I found were some threaded holes. Some never even had those. That pic above is a true Uni extension and legs and was quite sturdy bolted to the wing as it was.

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