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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post
    Wow,,,,,,,,,All along through this thread and your other thread I asked how long is your rail. I think everyone believed you were talking about cutting down a 52 inch rail and now you tell us your rail is 83 inches long. I even asked what part you were referring to when you said rail and you never answered. I wanted to know if you were calling the fence a rail. Now cutting it to fit in your shop makes it a bit more understandable. Gee whiz!!

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Wow,,,,,,,,,All along through this thread and your other thread I asked how long is your rail. I think everyone believed you were talking about cutting down a 52 inch rail and now you tell us your rail is 83 inches long. I even asked what part you were referring to when you said rail and you never answered. I wanted to know if you were calling the fence a rail. Now cutting it to fit in your shop makes it a bit more understandable. Gee whiz!!

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  • DavidR8
    replied

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  • Wally in Calgary
    replied
    Originally posted by DavidR8 View Post
    Ok, I think we're speaking the same language, just different dialects.
    The old-style fence you're referring to is a Jet-Lock fence.
    I have a Unifence and there are two editions of those.

    The big visual difference is the parallel adjusters.
    You are correct David. I have the old-style Uni like the grey one in your pic. The only difference is the way they lock. They operate exactly the same way. They can both be moved side to side and front to back. You could move your front rail all the way right and have a more versatile TS. This can be done by just drilling a few holes if needed. The cursors are different too if you ever need one. I cut my fence down into a short one and a medium one. I have a Peachtree arm that I like for most things.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Uni.jpg Views:	0 Size:	430.9 KB ID:	1252843
    Last edited by Wally in Calgary; 09-26-2019, 06:34 PM.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Ok, I think we're speaking the same language, just different dialects.
    The old-style fence you're referring to is a Jet-Lock fence.
    I have a Unifence and there are two editions of those.
    Edition 1
    Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	34.3 KB ID:	1252833
    Edition 2
    Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	39.7 KB ID:	1252834
    The big visual difference is the parallel adjusters.
    Last edited by DavidR8; 09-26-2019, 05:48 PM.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Mine were stamped Unifence Rob on the ends of the tubes front and back bottom. Regardless they were a good fence if you maintained the rear clamping mechanism.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post
    David you have the newer fence if it's the same as the pics in your post #27. The old style fence was on tubular rails and it was basically a steel 1 x 3.
    The tube rails on a unisaw was a jet-lock fence, not a unifence. It is also a good fence especially when compared to cheaper models of Delta saws.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    David you have the newer fence if it's the same as the pics in your post #27. The old style fence was on tubular rails and it was basically a steel 1 x 3.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post
    David that's what I thought but you confused the issue by saying you didn't think it was the newer one.
    Sorry,
    I could only find a manual for the new style fence so so I could be completely wrong that the first generation fence will flip.
    Last edited by DavidR8; 09-26-2019, 05:12 PM.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    David that's what I thought but you confused the issue by saying you didn't think it was the newer one.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post
    David if you add a jig with a flat face to your rail it might work, I/we need a pic of your fence to help with that. The trouble with long bevels is the offcuts that could kick out like an arrow. It's sort of a long story how to do it safely. If you absolutely need the info i'm sure I could post my thoughts which will be argued as they were in the past but I KNOW it works safely.
    Hi Rusty, I totally understand the dangers of bevel cuts that trap the work between the blade, table and fence.

    Reading the Unifence manual it looks like the aluminum part of the fence can be installed on the right side of the fence mechanism which would allow for safe bevels with the right tilt.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    David if you add a jig with a flat face to your rail it might work, I/we need a pic of your fence to help with that. The trouble with long bevels is the offcuts that could kick out like an arrow. It's sort of a long story how to do it safely. If you absolutely need the info i'm sure I could post my thoughts which will be argued as they were in the past but I KNOW it works safely.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doug G
    replied
    Maybe you should try to source a shorter rail and once you have it put your longer rail on the market. Would give you time to evaluate whether the long rail can work for you and if not you might come out ahead if your rail sells for more than the one you buy. You might even find someone with the short rail that wants a long rail.
    Last edited by Doug G; 09-26-2019, 01:43 PM.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by drzaius View Post

    I didn't actually cut them, I got a new saw with shorter rails
    Gotcha! Thanks.

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  • drzaius
    replied
    Originally posted by DavidR8 View Post

    Thanks drzaius. What did you use to cut the rails?
    I didn't actually cut them, I got a new saw with shorter rails

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