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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post
    One of the reasons I'm saying don't cut the rail is most people never stop to consider the fence before they start cutting. Lots of fences are made like "T" squares and require some rail to extend to the right to fasten to. DON'T FORGET TO CONSIDER THIS or you will diminish the usability of your machine. Secondly you need rail to the left of the blade as well, in particular to cut long bevels safely on a right tilt saw. You move the fence to the right side of the blade. Once again the "T" square comes into play.

    Thirdly, with tongue in cheek, If you wanted a "toy" saw you could have bought one. Sorry Frank, Just kidding! David a lot does depend on what you plan to do in terms of projects etc. so maybe wait a bit before you cut it to see which direction you will go and by the way you may even put a router on the left or right side of the blade and use your saw fence in conjunction with a router fence.
    Thanks Rusty I totally hear what you are saying. I actually made the fence on my Beaver 2200 so I'm aware of many of the considerations.

    It is not the current Unifence as far as I can tell as it does not have the large parallel adjustment screws on the body, just two allen bolts.

    Regarding bevels: I'm not sure what you mean about using the fence on the left side of the blade for bevels as it's a one-sided fence (I actually don't like this) and putting on the left side of the blade won't help me cut bevels.

    I'm considering all options as I don't want to mess this up. All I can tell you is that I bought this saw because I needed something larger than my Beaver 2200 and the recently purchased Rockwell 6201, which are likely fall into the "toy saw" category in your eyes.

    I rarely wrestle full sheets of ply etc. on the saw as I prefer to cut them using my straightedge and Skilsaw. So my need to crosscut a 4x8 sheet is zero. I think you would also suggest that a panel saw is the preferred way to go about this anyway.

    I will say that my garage is only 20 ft x 18 ft. and has a pillar smack dab on the middle. I could take out the pillar but I'd have to install a steel I-beam. Like most of us, space is at a premium. So a saw that is over 8 ft wide is a real challenge to deal with in a small space.

    I'm also dealing with the detritus from the prior occupant of the garage so until I can sort that out I'm a bit stuck.
    Last edited by DavidR8; 09-26-2019, 01:51 PM.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    One of the reasons I'm saying don't cut the rail is most people never stop to consider the fence before they start cutting. Lots of fences are made like "T" squares and require some rail to extend to the right to fasten to. DON'T FORGET TO CONSIDER THIS or you will diminish the usability of your machine. Secondly you need rail to the left of the blade as well, in particular to cut long bevels safely on a right tilt saw. You move the fence to the right side of the blade. Once again the "T" square comes into play.

    Thirdly, with tongue in cheek, If you wanted a "toy" saw you could have bought one. Sorry Frank, Just kidding! David a lot does depend on what you plan to do in terms of projects etc. so maybe wait a bit before you cut it to see which direction you will go and by the way you may even put a router on the left or right side of the blade and use your saw fence in conjunction with a router fence.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by drzaius View Post
    I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to cut the rails down. I went from a 52" to a 36" and like it so much better. Even if I had a much bigger shop I'd still go with the shorter rails. But that's me in my shop. Every case is different.
    Thanks drzaius. What did you use to cut the rails?

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  • drzaius
    replied
    I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to cut the rails down. I went from a 52" to a 36" and like it so much better. Even if I had a much bigger shop I'd still go with the shorter rails. But that's me in my shop. Every case is different.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post
    David if that saw has steel handles on the up, down and tilt wheels it is the same vintage as mine. The first pic looked like black handles. Please don't mess with that fence, if you got the unfence with the saw, in terms of replacement until you actually know all of it's features. I don't have one but it is a damn good fence. Slides and flips etc. You will learn to love it.
    Last edited by DavidR8; 09-26-2019, 11:43 AM.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by drzaius View Post
    Looks rough, but at that price, nobody would mind putting some hours into cleaning it up. Can it be fitted with a Shark guard?
    Funny you mention that as I was looking at those last night.
    I think it can be fitted with one.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by iamtooler View Post
    52'' rails or 52'' cut to right of blade? I do not like to have to walk around very wide saws to collect the cut off pieces but 52'' rails would be a shame to cut down.
    Rob
    The measuring tape on the fence rail goes to 52 in.
    The saw was in a sign shop so they dealt with sheet goods all the time.


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  • smallerstick
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty View Post
    David if that saw has steel handles on the up, down and tilt wheels it is the same vintage as mine. The first pic looked like black handles. Please don't mess with that fence, if you got the unfence with the saw, in terms of replacement until you actually know all of it's features. I don't have one but it is a damn good fence. Slides and flips etc. You will learn to love it.
    IMO the Unifence is about the best you can get. There are those who lean toward the Bies with ample justification so it's probably a toss up.. Good advise to clean it up and play with it for a while before deciding.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    52'' rails or 52'' cut to right of blade? I do not like to have to walk around very wide saws to collect the cut off pieces but 52'' rails would be a shame to cut down.
    Rob

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  • Rusty
    replied
    David if that saw has steel handles on the up, down and tilt wheels it is the same vintage as mine. The first pic looked like black handles. Please don't mess with that fence, if you got the unfence with the saw, in terms of replacement until you actually know all of it's features. I don't have one but it is a damn good fence. Slides and flips etc. You will learn to love it.

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  • drzaius
    replied
    Looks rough, but at that price, nobody would mind putting some hours into cleaning it up. Can it be fitted with a Shark guard?

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Got the beast into my rolling stand tonight so I can keep it out of the way for the moment.



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  • DavidR8
    replied
    Originally posted by Coop42 View Post
    And if you got the goose egg/motor cover that’s sitting under the fence extension on the right, you could sell it for more than you bought the saw! ;-)

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  • Coop42
    replied
    And if you got the goose egg/motor cover that’s sitting under the fence extension on the right, you could sell it for more than you bought the saw! ;-)

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Nothing wrong with a unfence and that saw is only slightly newer than mine. It's got the cast iron plinth base.
    Last edited by Rusty; 09-25-2019, 08:16 PM.

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