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New (to me) General 350 Table Saw

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  • Doug G
    replied
    Yeah when we moved it from his shop we struggled to load it on the trailer he rented, picked it up with straps under the top and couldn't get it over the side of the trailer finally lifted on the pallet and slid it on. So that may explain how it got out of alignment.

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  • timberframe
    replied
    Originally posted by Doug G View Post
    Just checked it at 45 degree tilt, harder to do as the depth probe on my micrometer meets the blade at an angle and easily deflects but measuring from the left (right tilt blade) I get either 5 or 9 thou so average 7 thou same as at 90 degrees, measuring from the right side I get 0 so I'm happy.
    That sounds great to me. Your base may have gotten tweaked into a slight parallellagram during moving or something like that, but it's great you got it sorted out. They are a real reliable workhorse and a pleasure to use, so I think you'll find the work now worthwhile. I plan on taking mine apart and giving it some love when the big move happens in a year or so.

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  • Doug G
    replied
    Just checked it at 45 degree tilt, harder to do as the depth probe on my micrometer meets the blade at an angle and easily deflects but measuring from the left (right tilt blade) I get either 5 or 9 thou so average 7 thou same as at 90 degrees, measuring from the right side I get 0 so I'm happy.

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  • Doug G
    replied
    Yeah, the next check is with the blade at 45 , I was aware of the test method, in fact I posted, with help, the "Supertuning your table saw article" a few years back and still have a copy. Fingers crossed. No reason to think it's not the original top based on what the seller gave as the history of the saw. Maybe it was never bang on from day one and the original owner didn't check or just lived with it. Funny coincidence, when I put the top in place after enlarging the holes, both times, the first reading was around 30 thou out almost the same as where I started at 33 thou out.

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  • Randy in Calgary
    replied
    Originally posted by Doug G View Post
    Hit a bit of a roadblock. Don't know if it was properly aligned before but after moving my saw, the blade was out of alignment by 0.033" front to back. Followed the procedure to adjust it. Loosened all but one bolt and hit the top with hammer and block of wood. Got it to 0.020" but no further. Tried loosening the fourth bolt, still no joy. Tried tightening a different bolt thinking the top might have maxed out the slot clearance with the back right bolt tight. Still no joy. Thought maybe saw was shifting on the base rather than the top shifting on the cabinet so I wedged the cabinet in the base (I need more work on the base but that's a separate issue), still no joy. Thought top was seized to cabinet with rust as the saw has sat for years so I loosened all the bolts. Sprayed WD40 around the top of the cabinet and tapped the top up with the hammer and block, still no joy. Other than applying more force and I'm giving it a good whack with a heavy hammer, not sure what to do next. Here's a picture of my measuring jig which holds the micrometer in the miter gage slot. Any suggestions?
    I also checked it with just an adjustable square and confirmed it is out.
    Yikes. I have adjusted several saws over the years. Two Unisaws, a General 350, and a GI Contractors saw. I have never run out of adjustment room to get the blade square to the slots. Is it the original top I wonder? I wouldn't settle for 17 thou error. Less than 5 would be my go by.
    One other thing to check is the consistency of the alignment as you tilt the blade. If it drifts you will need to shim the top to compensate. This has been discussed several times before on the Forum and there are instructions out there on how to dial it in.

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  • cstephens2
    replied
    Originally posted by Doug G View Post

    Good idea but I hope the 1 1/2 ponies will be enough, have to check if my mag switch and starter would handle 3 HP.
    a 3hp mag switch at Busybee is $99 IIRC.

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  • Doug G
    replied
    It seemed odd that I couldn't make the adjustment without enlarging the holes but I've heard from several people that they had to do the same, on Generals and other brands. Luckily a couple seconds with a die grinder solved it. I spent more time yesterday trying in vain to adjust it than I spent today enlarging the holes and adjusting.


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  • redlee
    replied
    Just seeing this now, Ive had mine apart twice and never had this problem. are you sure nothing else is stopping it from moving ?
    I can move my top both ways and never had a problem.
    Mine is a 3hp.
    Last edited by redlee; 10-14-2021, 07:26 PM.

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  • Doug G
    replied
    Originally posted by cstephens2 View Post

    Keep an eye on kijiji/craigslist/facebook mktplace for a 3hp 1hp TEFC motor.
    Good idea but I hope the 1 1/2 ponies will be enough, have to check if my mag switch and starter would handle 3 HP.

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  • cstephens2
    replied
    Originally posted by Doug G View Post

    Thanks, the motor is 1 1/2 HP so 20 Amps is all I need, 30 was a typo. Here's the motor nameplate, it's wired for 240V. Your correct, 12 Ga is only good for 20 amps so I'll go for a 20 amp breaker. Note the wire run will literally be a couple feet only, after considering it, right beside the panel is the best spot for the outlet, it's even close to the garage door if I ever need it outside.
    Keep an eye on kijiji/craigslist/facebook mktplace for a 3hp 1hp TEFC motor.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doug G
    replied
    Success removed all the bolts, rotating the top to access the slots didn't work but I was able to tip the top up and block it with a 2 x 4 and access the slots which aren't actually slots just oversized holes. Enlarged them slightly, reassembled and got it down to 11 thou, repeated the process and ground a bit more and got it down to 4 thou, tightened up the bolts and remeasured 7 thou. Backed off three bolts tapped it back to 4 thou but when tightened slipped to 7 thou again. Since it was towed out left it at 7 thou.

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  • Doug G
    replied
    Originally posted by Stuart Jacobs View Post
    This is probably not an issue but I'll mention it anyway. Would loosening your fence rails help the top move?
    No, not an issue, the rear fence rail hasn't been installed yet, the front rail adds to the weight but doesn't interfere with rotating the top. In fact I've tried using it as a lever to try and rotate the top.
    I think my next step is to remove all but one bolt, loosen the fourth and rotate the top until I can access the slots and enlarge them.

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  • Stuart Jacobs
    replied
    This is probably not an issue but I'll mention it anyway. Would loosening your fence rails help the top move?

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  • Doug G
    replied
    There is one bolt, front right, that is binding, the other three turn with little effort once loosened. I'll try removing it. I've tried two different blades but I'm now checking against a spot marked on the blade body near the perimeter rather than a tooth.

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  • ErikM
    replied
    Try removing a bolt or two to see if you can figure out which one is binding, you would then know which hole needs widening. Also, do you have another sawblade to compare with as the existing blade may have some variation?
    Last edited by ErikM; 10-13-2021, 11:28 PM.

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