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Moving a Unisaw by myself

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  • #31

    Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

    Here's some more pics of the switch box and the motor label. I didn't even notice the label inside last night. Motor is 1.5HP and wired for 220. I'll be leaving it like that. I had a quick look online for Square-D stuff and it's pretty expensive. So it would be nice it's possible to get this working properly again. I have an electrician friend who works here in the Chemical Valley, so I'll try to get him over to look at this thing too.


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    Click image for larger version  Name:	20201026-unisaw motor switch-5989.jpg Views:	0 Size:	724.5 KB ID:	1301684 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201026-unisaw motor switch-5991.jpg Views:	0 Size:	615.0 KB ID:	1301685 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201026-unisaw motor switch-5990.jpg Views:	0 Size:	750.5 KB ID:	1301683 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201026-unisaw motor switch-5993.jpg Views:	0 Size:	689.5 KB ID:	1301682 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201026-unisaw motor switch-5995.jpg Views:	0 Size:	810.6 KB ID:	1301681
    Last edited by streetcore; 10-26-2020, 10:59 AM.

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    • #32

      Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

      Parts of the Square D starter are missing. The Cutler-Hammer starter mounted in the front of the enclosure is a nice control, I have one of those on a Buffalo drill press. I would look for a magnetic starter of the right size for the saw and keep the Cutler-Hammer for something else down the road. Like Craig says a mag starter is better on a table saw. You don’t have to worry about it starting back up if the power goes off and comes back on. Something like a drill press starting back up after the power comes back on usually isn’t as dangerous as a saw.

      The serial numbers are interesting. I notice one is a Pittsburgh Pa. USA serial number and the other is from Guelph Ont. Canada.
      Are they both on the cabinet of the machine?
      Mike @ Buck Lake

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      • #33

        Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

        Andy, that switch is likely safe for the saw as long as it is set up for 220v but a mag starter is a better solution.
        Erik

        Canada's Island Paradise - Prince Edward Island

        Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club

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        • #34

          Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

          Originally posted by mikeddd View Post

          The serial numbers are interesting. I notice one is a Pittsburgh Pa. USA serial number and the other is from Guelph Ont. Canada.
          Are they both on the cabinet of the machine?
          Yeah, both on the cabinet. US one is on the back and Canadian one on the front. I wonder if it might have been made in US and then exported here. Perhaps after they stopped manufacturing here? The Canadian model and sn might have been required for warranty service here.

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          • #35

            Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

            I got the main table cleaned up today and it looks pretty good. Always nice to get that rust off.

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            smallerstick, tool fan and 5 others like this.

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            • #36

              Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

              Wow! Nice cleanup Andy!! Keep us posted.
              Mike
              streetcore likes this.

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              • #37

                Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                streetcore That's good that the previous owner put a proper motor starter on your saw. It is up to you if you feel it is worth the cost and effort to replace it with a magnetic starter.

                By the look of it, your saw has been used hard for quite some time. Do you know if the motor and arbor bearings have been replaced? They really don't cost much and if you are refurbing the machine, it is likely the right time to put in some new ones.

                How well do the tilt and raise mechanisms function? Probably need cleaning and (dry) lube. Etc, etc.

                BTW, on the Canadian serial plate, it says "Model 34-450SX". I've never seen the "SX" suffix before. The US serial plate has the model as "34 461". I'm not sure how that differs from the more-common 34-450. (More accurately, I can't be bothered to go searching the web to find out!)

                Also, you should be able to look up the US serial number on the Vintage Machinery website to determine when it left the factory.

                Craig
                smallerstick likes this.

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                • #38

                  Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                  I was expecting to replace the bearings and belts on a saw this old. I took the belts off last night and they were dried, cracked, and looked like they may have been original equipment. I haven't got much deeper than that, but tilt and raise mechanisms seem ok and next step is to get the top off and figure out what bearings I need to order. I haven't powered up the motor yet either, and hope to do that later today.

                  I looked up the serial number and it was made in 1975. I will probably post some pics over at owwm.org and see if anyone knows anything about the SX suffix and dual citizenship.
                  WCraig likes this.

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                  • #39

                    Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                    The motor looks like a standard "condem" motor. These had heavier windings and a ton of torque. Some believe they were rated conservatively and I agree. Go to ebay and search the net for art deco style allan Bradley. An old school 709 starter will work just fine. They were superceded by the 509 but you will not need the changes. A three phase starter can be wired to handle single phase if needed. The old school nema class allan Bradley was built like a brick manure house and often outlast the machines they were shipped on. So no issues in using used 709s. This saw looks really good. Keep it at 220 volts to keep amps down. Makes rewire easy.

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                    • #40

                      Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                      Correction. Not condem motor but orig delta motor non the less. It would be nice to see this beast with an art deco 709 starter. Just saying. There were some import issues with canada regarding unisaws. No expert here but it had to do with the USA, canada and general. That is part of the reason that the unisaw and 350 are as close to each other as they are. If you get the shaper top, dont scrap it. It would make someone or you a killer router table.

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                      • #41

                        Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                        Originally posted by streetcore View Post
                        I took the belts off last night and they were dried, cracked, and looked like they may have been original equipment.
                        If you go with traditional v-belts, get a 'matched set' from a v-belt supplier - automotive suppliers typically dont know what you are talking about when you ask for a 'matched set'. The newer style 'link belts' are also good. I run the link belts on my 80's unisaw with no issues.

                        Eg of 'matched set' from a supplier. Be sure to verify what set you need for you model of unisaw.
                        https://www.fremontindustrialsupply....hed-belts.html

                        https://www.busybeetools.com/product...priced-ft.html

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                        • #42

                          Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                          Thanks for the tips. I searched eBay for Allen-Bradley art deco starters, but didn't find much. I'll keep looking

                          I did find a set of belts though that I'll probably order. They're only about $30Cad including shipping from US. May not be best belts, but I'll be using the saw pretty lightly I think, and can always upgrade later if need be.

                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/372672047573
                          Last edited by streetcore; 10-28-2020, 07:57 PM.

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                          • #43

                            Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                            The term art deco refers to an older style of box. You would search for allan bradley starter or contactor with a model number 709. As I recall, you would look for a #0 or #1 but dont quote me. I also recall there was a used industrial controls dealer in South Carolina. I will have a look on the net. I need to get some bulletin 800 switches anyway. Plan is to make a wadkin look-alike starter switch box that looks like wadkin but uses allan bradley switch parts.

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                            • #44

                              Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                              Getting a matched set of belts can be cheaply done through a bearing pulley supplier. Just try to get three belts in consecutive numbering. I did this with my lathe. I got two belts that were slit beside each other and I think one that was two away from of the pair. they didn't charge me any more, but they did tell me if they had to order a consecutive match set it would cost more.

                              Progressively matching belts is really important in Pullys that have 6 to 10 belts. If you can get a matching set or close to, it is better.
                              Last edited by Matt Matt; 10-28-2020, 11:41 PM.
                              For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.
                              Sir Isaac Newton.

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                              • #45

                                Re: Moving a Unisaw by myself

                                I got the arbor apart today and was happy to discover the bearings are very common 6203. I could buy some from Princess for $5 each, but I'll see if I can find some better quality at a bearing supplier.

                                I also powered up the motor and everything seems fine with it. So it shouldn't take much more to get the saw up and running again.
                                Last edited by streetcore; 10-29-2020, 08:06 PM.

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