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  • Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

    I have quite a few cutting boards, and serving trays I have started making for gifts this year..I have seen two products out there, Walrus Oil and Wax as well as Odies Oil and Wax...I am leaning towards Odies, although it is quite expensive to purchase as opposed to the Walrus product, everything I see on you tube is impressive to say the least.
    Personally, I prefer some type of buffed finish to provide a sheen after the oil has been applied..
    Just inquiring as to what everyone out there uses, and if you could provide some guidance.
    Dan
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  • #2

    Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

    A browse through Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" will tell you that oils and waxes are not finishes but surface treatments at best. They all wash of/wear off and must be renewed. They make the product look good and that's all.
    Having said that, I prefer fax oil or hemp oil from the kitchen store. Inexpensive, edible and either one does the job until it's time to renew. The new proprietary oils IMO are not worth the huge price.
    The difference between a master and a beginner: The master has failed more times than the beginner has even tried.

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    • #3

      Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

      I use a mixture of 1 part beeswax to 4 parts mineral oil heated in a pan of water. Then pour it into 1/2 cup mason jars. I give a jar with each board so it can be reapplied as needed.
      I apply a good amount on to the board before giving them away.
      Jerome
      Canada's South Coast

      Port Colborne On.
      Every loaf of bread is a tragic tale of grains that could've become beer.......but didn't....

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      • #4

        Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

        Dan, Walrus oil ??, I would think that any animal fat/oil would be bad a idea, certainly to go rancid and stinky after a bit.

        What Peter is pointing out is true, with at least two exceptions, least costly one is the so called BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) it does Polymerize (that is not the same as drying) Polymerizing is a chemical reaction of the product with Oxygen in the air, where the product changes and it becomes a different material that you can not wash off (BLO also has added salts(heavy metals) to speed up the Polymerization).

        Finishes like Danish oil and others do very often use BLO in the makeup of the product.

        The next one is Tung Oil, it is also a Polymerizing oil, it can be bought pure and also as Polymerized Tung Oil, where the oil has been heated in inert atmosphere (no oxygen present) to do part of the polymerizing process, the outcome makes the PTO (Polymerized Tung Oil) harden up faster and harder than the pure Tung oil and also BLO.

        PTO is what I use, in a warm place it will be hard in a matter of hours, I usually have it sit overnight, and can then add the next coat on it, I wait for a couple of weeks if I want to polish it, just to have it harden thoroughly.

        One caveat here, Pure Tung Oil and PTO is NOT the same as Tung oil FINISH, as the word FINISH is a way to lie, and make most consumers thing it is, or there is Tung oil in that FINISH, NOT SO, it means that according the makers the finish will LOOK LIKE a Tung OIL FINISH, without there being a single drop of Tung Oil in it.

        I personal do not like a very shiny finish, too plasticky looking for my taste, but here are a couple pictures that are a bit more shiny, just PTO used on it and later polished.


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        smallerstick and Paul Smith like this.

        Have fun and take care
        Leo Van Der Loo

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        • #5

          Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

          Thanks guys for all your input...Leo, thanks for the extensive lesson...When turning bowls I usually finish up with wet sanding them with boiled linseed oil..Then let them dry for a week or so then use the Beal Buffing system to finish them off...I like the look of the Boiled Linseed Oil as I find it makes the grain, colour of the wood pop.
          My understanding is BLO is non toxic after drying fully.
          The pics of the bowls with the Polymerized Tung Oil are awsome.
          Do you think the Polymerized Tung Oil will stand up to the cutting boards?
          Would that product be more suited for bowls and serving boards, and stick to a product like Clapmans Beewax Salad Bowl finish for the Cutting boards.
          Lastly, would I be able to use boiled linseed oil or mineral oil to make the colour of the wood pop, then coat over top with a product like Calpmans?

          Thanks again for all your patients!
          Dan

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          • #6

            Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

            From the net:

            https://gimmethegoodstuff.org/is-linseed-oil-toxic

            https://artdec.ca/en/blog/7/how-to-f...-butcher-block
            Last edited by Egon; 11-22-2019, 09:12 AM.
            Egon
            from
            The South Shore, Nova Scotia

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            • #7

              Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

              Originally posted by Dan M / Barrie View Post
              Thanks guys for all your input...Leo, thanks for the extensive lesson...When turning bowls I usually finish up with wet sanding them with boiled linseed oil..Then let them dry for a week or so then use the Beal Buffing system to finish them off...I like the look of the Boiled Linseed Oil as I find it makes the grain, colour of the wood pop.
              My understanding is BLO is non toxic after drying fully.
              The pics of the bowls with the Polymerized Tung Oil are awsome.
              Do you think the Polymerized Tung Oil will stand up to the cutting boards?
              Would that product be more suited for bowls and serving boards, and stick to a product like Clapmans Beewax Salad Bowl finish for the Cutting boards.
              Lastly, would I be able to use boiled linseed oil or mineral oil to make the colour of the wood pop, then coat over top with a product like Calpmans?

              Thanks again for all your patients!
              Dan
              Dan yes the BLO is safe after it has totally hardened, as it has heavy metals (very little) and salts to speed up the polymerization, these products are locked in by the polymerization process, the end product is a nice finish, but tends/will yellow and darken over time, it isn’t as tough as PTO (Polymerized Tung Oil) and is not as shiny if that’s what you want, PTO also hardens faster than BLO, make sure you do remove rags etc that you used, as they can ignite spontaneously, fires have been caused by this, both PTO an BLO oils will do this.

              I would say that PTO is tougher than BLO, so if BLO works PTO would also, though we never have any finish on out cutting boards, woods in their natural state have proven to be a safe product for cutting boards without any finish on it, as some oils or other finishes have shown to diminish the safety of the wood itself.

              You can coat over PTO after it has polymerized with anything as no thinners or other acids or food products will affect it, it becomes totally inert
              Last edited by Leo Van Der Loo; 11-22-2019, 03:44 PM.

              Have fun and take care
              Leo Van Der Loo

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              • #8

                Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

                Leo and all, Walrus oil is just a gimmick name. its actually Beeswax, Mineral oil and Coconut oil. Same old recipe, newer name

                i am in the middle of 10 boards for Christmas, and i hope to try out Walrus and Top oil from Osmo. i have used mineral oil in the past and Odies oil. i am not a fan of Odies....

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                • #9

                  Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

                  Hey Chris..What was your chief complaint as far as Odies Oil?..I got myself a jar so am going to try it..It was that or the Walrus Oil and I pulled the trigger on the Odies.
                  Let us know how you make out with Walrus Oil..
                  Dan

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                  • #10

                    Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

                    I put odies on just about everything I make. It is very versatile and very easy to fix if something goes wrong. You can sand an area and just apply more. Caution has to be used when you get rid of the rags they can self combust. It was originally designed for use on wide plank wood floors. Then they started using it on tables. Now it is used on everything. Check out their site as well as youtube and instagram for more info on this. I won't use conventional finishes again. This will be my goto finish on everything. Plus its food safe.
                    https://www.facebook.com/gregsreinventions2016/

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                    • #11

                      Re: Oldies Oil / Walrus Oil

                      Here is their Youtube Channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/OdiesOil
                      https://www.facebook.com/gregsreinventions2016/

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