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  • fill these cracks?

    big leaf maple burl with some cracks that i think i have to fill with epoxy. after treating with polymerized tung oil, i think this thing is bound to keep splitting, but since it's my first time working with a hardwood burl, i just don't know for sure. my gut tells me it's gonna keep splitting if i don't epoxy fill. what do you guys think? in one picture i sprayed it with water to see what it will look like finished.
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  • #2

    Re: fill these cracks?

    Consider stitching it up with wire that will make it a feature.
    Egon
    from
    The South Shore, Nova Scotia

    Comment


    • #3

      Re: fill these cracks?

      Hi Earl, yes splits will always get larger, I have had some pics that would split if left without controlling that.

      As a couple crotches had bark in them and I knew they would open up, so I made staples from some harder Stainless steel wire, a bit heavier than regular staples.

      Drilled small holes for the staples and hammered them in, some right as I was rough turning and then removed and replaced them to a better spot afterward.

      Some pictures should make that clear I think.

      I als have used brass wire and laced the longer split that was already in the log before turning the bowl, turned it because it showed nice curl in the wood.


      Have fun and take care
      Leo Van Der Loo

      Comment


      • #4

        Re: fill these cracks?

        I have found that using Pentacryl slows the drying, and tends to make the cracks stop where they are.

        I slather it on, and weigh it daily watching the weight drop, then stabilize.

        In a paper bag or not does not seem to have made a difference, for the projects I've done this way.

        So far, that's what has worked for me.
        Noel

        "Being so impressed with the beauty of nature, I never cease to be amazed at how the
        'touch of the human hand' can transform it into another kind of beauty that is so uniquely human.
        "

        John Snow, Outdoorsman and Retired Teacher

        Comment


        • #5

          Re: fill these cracks?

          Love the suggestions with the Pentacryl and the wire stitching, but I think Leo's staples might be the ticket.

          I don't think Pentacryl is an option since this piece of wood is about 7 years old and dry as a bone. Due to the multiple cracks and thickness of the burl, I don't think the wire stitching is an option for this piece either. I love the look and will probably incorporate it into a monterey cypress slab table i'm working on a little bit down the road. Never heard of it / seen it before and your work, as usual, looks fantastic, Leo. Thanks for the suggestions.

          Since the wood is so old and dry, it's going to keep splitting. i've got to stabilize it somehow and i'm liking the staple you incorporated, Leo. That might be my best option other than epoxy. The thickness of the wood is between 6-10cm. Too thick for a stitch, but maybe perfect thickness for a 1.25" stainless-steel staple.

          If I staple, i can wait until i have completely finished the piece before adding them.

          Using my air-powered commercial grade stapler might shoot the staple too far into the wood. I think i would have to pre-drill pilot holes and gently tap the staples into place. I'll be able to control the placement better that way. I'm thinking a size like this https://www.fastenerusa.com/staples/...m-minipak.html

          Does this sound correct?

          Comment


          • #6

            Re: fill these cracks?

            https://www.ispinwood.com/stitched--sutured.html

            https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/596164069395799347/

            wire stitching should work on thicker wood. Lots of internet examples.
            Last edited by Egon; 02-14-2020, 01:13 PM.
            Egon
            from
            The South Shore, Nova Scotia

            Comment

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            • #7

              Re: fill these cracks?

              Noel if you re using dry wood, the brown paper bag has not much affect, as it works like a kiln, that is for wet wood to remove a large amount of water in a controlled manner where you keep the moisture level high around the wood to prevent checks and splitting, if you don’t use this method you will end up with the checks and splits as showing in your Ash turning, arrows show only the larger ones, there are several smaller ones also.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	Ash bowl & plate.jpg Views:	0 Size:	40.6 KB ID:	1270772

              I have enough experience to even tell where splits can develop if not prevented, even much later after the bowls have dried and are finished, I often use CA when just rough turned before there is a split/check, like on knots and at the pith area on the rim of a bowl.

              I have two picture here that show a split I knew was going to happen, and when an acquaintance liked the bowl I told them that it would develop a split later, so the bought something else.

              A year or so later it did split and I used the brass wire to keep it from opening farther up, I still have this bowl, I don’t like to sell something like that.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	Black Walnut.jpg Views:	0 Size:	50.1 KB ID:	1270773Click image for larger version  Name:	with split.jpg Views:	0 Size:	64.8 KB ID:	1270774


              Last edited by Leo Van Der Loo; 02-14-2020, 01:22 PM.

              Have fun and take care
              Leo Van Der Loo

              Comment


              • #8

                Re: fill these cracks?

                Those stapels could very well work for you Earl, though I did make mine for the reason that the width and length are often not what a commercial staple is, often need to wider and some need pretty short legs, yes you can cut them shorter.

                The holes I drill are slightly under size so the staple does fit tight in the wood, that is important as the wood can exert quite a bit of force on them.

                I did the first one nearly 20 years ago and there was no-one doing this on turned bowls, though I had seen some turner that had used a zipper on a very large open split, so the idea then came to use something like it on a split bowl, the zipper looked good on a vase no so much on a bowl and the brass wire looked better on the dark wood than copper wire with I tried as well, so thats when I made a picture of that bowl and showed it on a couple of forums.

                With the latest fad of slab tables, the splits that they have or get are asking for some pleasant looking fixes, and I’ve seen wiring is one of the ways the do this though I like the Dutchman wedges better if well done, good not everyone likes the same
                Last edited by Leo Van Der Loo; 02-14-2020, 01:53 PM.

                Have fun and take care
                Leo Van Der Loo

                Comment


                • #9

                  Re: fill these cracks?

                  Originally posted by Leo Van Der Loo View Post
                  Noel if you re using dry wood, the brown paper bag has not much affect, as it works like a kiln, that is for wet wood to remove a large amount of water in a controlled manner where you keep the moisture level high around the wood to prevent checks and splitting, if you don’t use this method you will end up with the checks and splits as showing in your Ash turning, arrows show only the larger ones, there are several smaller ones also.
                  Thanks Leo. I know about wet and dry wood. The cracks were in the original piece, and it was turned - with their knowledge - for the neighbours who 'lost' the tree, as a memory of a tree which their kids grew up with.
                  Noel

                  "Being so impressed with the beauty of nature, I never cease to be amazed at how the
                  'touch of the human hand' can transform it into another kind of beauty that is so uniquely human.
                  "

                  John Snow, Outdoorsman and Retired Teacher

                  Comment


                  • #10

                    Re: fill these cracks?

                    Originally posted by Leo Van Der Loo View Post
                    Those stapels could very well work for you Earl, though I did make mine for the reason that the width and length are often not what a commercial staple is, often need to wider and some need pretty short legs, yes you can cut them shorter.

                    The holes I drill are slightly under size so the staple does fit tight in the wood, that is important as the wood can exert quite a bit of force on them.

                    I did the first one nearly 20 years ago and there was no-one doing this on turned bowls, though I had seen some turner that had used a zipper on a very large open split, so the idea then came to use something like it on a split bowl, the zipper looked good on a vase no so much on a bowl and the brass wire looked better on the dark wood than copper wire with I tried as well, so thats when I made a picture of that bowl and showed it on a couple of forums.

                    With the latest fad of slab tables, the splits that they have or get are asking for some pleasant looking fixes, and I’ve seen wiring is one of the ways the do this though I like the Dutchman wedges better if well done, good not everyone likes the same
                    upon further examination, the cracks encompass multiple areas and the staple or wire technique just isn't going to work. i've decided upon using silver or bronze mica dust mixed into epoxy. i think the proper finish order is going to be:
                    1 coat of polymerized tung oil sealer
                    1 coat of polymerized tung oil (maybe 2)
                    1 coat of dewaxxed shellac
                    epoxy fill on the cracks

                    this is gonna take a while....

                    Comment


                    • #11

                      Re: fill these cracks?

                      Originally posted by earl of vincent View Post

                      upon further examination, the cracks encompass multiple areas and the staple or wire technique just isn't going to work. i've decided upon using silver or bronze mica dust mixed into epoxy. i think the proper finish order is going to be:
                      1 coat of polymerized tung oil sealer
                      1 coat of polymerized tung oil (maybe 2)
                      1 coat of dewaxxed shellac
                      epoxy fill on the cracks

                      this is gonna take a while....
                      scratch that.....going with CA (starbond) to stabilize the cracks.....i can ditch the shellac too....much easier all around.

                      Comment

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