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Mystery hasps

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  • #16

    Re: Mystery hasps

    yes the locking devices I have are the same as that pictured. Minus the bracket thing. I dont see what that is doing. They do work but they also get in the way of using internal screens or storms.

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    • #17

      Re: Mystery hasps

      it must be a hasp and not a hinge since only one side has screw holes. the pin which protrudes must face the outside of the door. it could be used on a shed or outbuilding.

      if you put a hasp on the door one thing that tends to happen is that you can close the door and the hasp swings around and interferes with the doorjam.

      I think it might be to keep the hasp clear of the doorway so when the lock is off the door. it doesn;t interfere.
      if you envision the hasp attached beside the door, when you open it fully that curved piece goes through a slot and it as a pin to keep it there away from the doorjamb.

      It could also prevent someone from locking you in because they couldn't just come along and stick the lock on inadvertently locking you in. they would need to open the door first and remove the keeper pin to get the hasp closed.

      I know we have a hasp on our shed and it always wants to hit the door. you close the door and it goes wham as the hasp is wagging loose and it wants to hit the edge of the door or get between the door and the door frame. this curved piece prevents it from wagging loose and interfering whit the door as it closes when the hasp isn't being used. it keeps it out of the way.
      Last edited by stickman; 08-18-2021, 12:29 PM.

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      • #18

        Re: Mystery hasps

        yes my house has those sliders. they can work ok but seem to bind sometimes and I keep thinking maybe it's something to do with how they are aligned. all my windows are 100 years old and I dont see any issues whatsoever. if they are rebuilt they will last another 100 years.one of the reasons why they last is because old houses generally have enough overhang that they never really get very wet.

        I've been cleaning off all the paint to show the wood and am working mainly on the casings and sills and baseboards now. I plan to build a steambox to remove paint from the inside and will paint the outward facing parts.
        the windows slide up and down and there is a strip of wood on the inside that guides them , to refit them the windows and these strips just need to be cleaned up to reduce the width o the channel. If one wants to, there are spring bronze strips and they form a more positive seal. after 100 years of sliding up and down the wood channel can enlarge itself and then the window can rattle or fail to seal well. that strip is easy to remove and there is one for the bottom window and another for the top window. with those strips out the windows come out from the inside. origially the upper and lower window ( sash) meet along the parting rail and that gap can wear and be tuned up during refitting. there is a bronze strip available for that as well and some were done originally with the bronze which provides a pretty much air tight seal.

        yes in fall they used to put up storm windows or apply shrink film and in summer the storms can be replaced by screens. there are ways to install inner or outer storms.

        when an old house has it's original windows and you view it from the street you see the waviness of the glass in the reflection and it is actually quite noticeable and an important part of preserving a building is to retain that. from inside as you move about you can notice how things move about due to imperfections in the glass. It is very fast though to chuck the windows in the garbage and put in new vinyl ones with dual windows. they will generally only last maybe 30 years and then fog or suffer plastic decompositon.
        a lot of the old houses get so overdone with mods like that that it becomes hard to tell them from new houses. The craftsman style is often copied but with reduced dimensions. a lot also loose the fireplace and chimney to make room for suites etc. usually they throw away all the old casings which have oversize dimensions and replace them with modern dimension lumber also to save cost and speed things up. doing actual restoration rather than replacement is fairly labor intensive but it's not really expensive, just a labor of love. the original mastic is hard to get. there is some junk called DAP on the market but the better stuff was linseed oil based and the brand name is Sarco. usually the putty is removed and re-bedded as part of proper window restoration.

        old houses usually didn't have big picture windows, divided panes are common, when there was an element of handwork in glass making then the big pieces were harder to come by so the panes were divided. Now they mimic the look in some cheapened way quite often. a lot of old houses had a bit of artwork in the form of leaded glass or stained glass so it can be worth doing restoration rather than replacement to retain the originality.

        my house did not have any plywood originally and also no putty, no plastic parts , no drywall and no MDF. even gutters were made of wood. the frame is all fir not pine like modern ones. a lot of modern houses have trusses which take up the attic space and a lot of the older ones have a steeper pitch and an attic space. back when it was built they didn't insulate houses so the walls were empty , firewood and coal was plentiful so they just burned more. the heating system was in the basement and eat rose up the center of the house by convection , most have had central air added and ductwork, and natural gas. mine included. I added a lot of insulation.

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