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Best rust remover.

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  • bogmer
    replied
    Originally posted by baymoe View Post
    Brass wire wheel on a drill seems to work well for me. Wipe it down with acetone (but don't think it's really necessary), then follow up with a bit of wax.
    A lot of time when using a brass or iron wire wheel it doesn't remove the rust but polishes it and yes you can polish rust.

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  • baymoe
    replied
    Brass wire wheel on a drill seems to work well for me. Wipe it down with acetone (but don't think it's really necessary), then follow up with a bit of wax.

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  • DavidR8
    replied
    I use a purple Scotchbrite belt on my belt sander to remove surface rust from a new-to-me bandsaw.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	before.jpg Views:	0 Size:	144.3 KB ID:	1297558
    Click image for larger version  Name:	after2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	75.5 KB ID:	1297559

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  • Cushak
    replied
    When I get "new" (read:used) tools with cast iron surfaces in need of some TLC, I've always used WD40 and super, superfine scotchbrite-type pads on an older ROS I have laying around. (This last time I tried out the Mirka pads they sell at LV. Going 1600-2200) Then I clean the top off with lacquer thinner, and then use white scotchbrite (the one with no abrasives) to apply just a little bit of Maguires #26 car polish. Really go at it buffing it off with shop towels after. It's pretty dry here so that helps, but it's kept the rust off for a loooong time. When the tops are looking a little dirty, or at the first sign of some staining I just reapply the #26 with a really fine grit pad.

    For rust on small parts I just recently did a batch using an electrolysis tank with an old PC power supply. It made the job so easy. Took only a couple hours and all the deep rust was gone.

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  • bogmer
    replied
    All it is is surface rust right guys... It's not like supper pitted embeded crusty rust. It's the stuff that starts to show up when the wax starts to go on the tablesaw.

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  • Stuart Jacobs
    replied
    Originally posted by Egon View Post
    Naval jelly works well.

    However the rust is removed it should be followed by a neutralizer.
    I have used this as well, on steel, but not on cast iron. Don't know why it wouldn't work well. As Egon said, follow with a neutralizer.
    Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver 16-Fluid Ounce (553472)

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  • Jim DaddyO
    replied
    WD-40 and 400 grit. Clean up with naptha (lighter fluid) and then wax. I make up a combination of furniture wax and about 25% 3 in 1 oil.

    If I ever find anything really heavy I think I will just invest in some Evapo-rust, but I haven't yet.
    Last edited by Jim DaddyO; 09-12-2020, 12:37 PM.

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  • QC Inspector
    replied
    Originally posted by Glenn McBride View Post
    I have also heard Hydrogen Peroxide either alone or with baking soda but have not tried yet.
    I would be very surprised if it didn't make things worse. Hydrogen Peroxide is water with an extra Oxygen atom that is loosely bonded to the molecule. It will jump to the next atom with a stronger molecular attraction, the Iron in your saw's table. Water by itself is problem enough but to add more Oxygen to the equation makes no sense to me.

    I have use Evaporust (LV has it) a little and would use it or try the other product LV sells that works the same way. If it was a big rust removal job I would try electrolysis. Other stores sell them along with similar products but I patronize those that are woodworking focused.

    https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...t?item=56Z8061

    https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...ntrate-and-gel

    Pete

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  • Egon
    replied
    Naval jelly works well.

    However the rust is removed it should be followed by a neutralizer.

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  • GJW
    replied
    OK, dumb question time. Why not use an actual rust remover? The automotive section of most hardware stores is full of various product design to remove rust. It doesn't matter if its body steel or saw steel.

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  • ErikM
    replied
    For years I have used citric acid from the wine shops. Mixes with hot water and very cheap. I don’t leave metal there overnight, I monitor it and scrape with a brass brush to remove the black oxides. Once rust is gone, hot water rinse, treat with WD40 to drive moisture from the cracks and crevices. Good to go.

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  • John Bartley
    replied
    Originally posted by bogmer View Post

    After trying the CLR... Don't bother. It did take out the rust but I wonder if it was me rubbing or the actual CLR doing it. It's really not worth because after a couple of days the rust just came back worst than it was before I used it.

    In other words do not use CLR on your tablesaw.

    I now have a table saw ready for vinegar... I will try this and get back to you...

    Right now carb cleaner worked the best for me
    I am surprised. I have used CLR "Rust Remover" for years with great success. CLR has several products. This is the one I have used, BUT .... I see that it is now advertised as "environmentally safe" etc, which is all fine and good, but that is not the bottle that I have ... Maybe they have changed it.

    EDIT :: a bit of research shows that they took the Phosphoric Acid out .... so that they could advertise it as "phosphates free". Hmph!

    This is the "new" bottle:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	CLR.JPG Views:	0 Size:	31.1 KB ID:	1296208

    This (below) is what I always used ::


    Click image for larger version  Name:	CLR2.JPG Views:	0 Size:	35.8 KB ID:	1296209
    Last edited by John Bartley; 09-11-2020, 07:21 AM.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    clr works on my shower head if It soaks in it for a couple of days. Vinegar is an acid, it will cause corrosion if not removed completely.

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  • drzaius
    replied
    [QUOTE=bogmer;n1296180]

    After trying the CLR... Don't bother. It did take out the rust but I wonder if it was me rubbing or the actual CLR doing it. It's really not worth because after a couple of days the rust just came back worst than it was before I used it.

    In other words do not use CLR on your tablesaw./QUOTE]

    I am most underwhelmed by CLR. It definitely does not work well as a rust remover, and doesn't seem to remove scale any better than vinegar.

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  • bogmer
    replied
    Originally posted by John Bartley View Post
    CLR or Vinegar.
    After trying the CLR... Don't bother. It did take out the rust but I wonder if it was me rubbing or the actual CLR doing it. It's really not worth because after a couple of days the rust just came back worst than it was before I used it.

    In other words do not use CLR on your tablesaw.

    I now have a table saw ready for vinegar... I will try this and get back to you...

    Right now carb cleaner worked the best for me

    Leave a comment:

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