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North Bennet Style Tool Box Build or How I Embraced the Covid 19 Lockdown

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  • #76

    Re: North Bennet Style Tool Box Build or How I Embraced the Covid 19 Lockdown

    Originally posted by WoodBob View Post
    If not too late, I highly suggest putting a panel between each drawer like I did below. A tool box especially could get a lot of stuff jammed between drawers.
    Thanks Bob for the suggestion. I never thought of that. I am doing this build as a practice for making a dresser which will have the dust panels incorporated into the dividers. For this build, I was following the North Bennett Street School Tool Chest video by Matt Wadja on FWW. North Bennett does not insert divider panels in any of their chest designs but I think it is a good idea. I know how difficult it is to reach in between the dividers with my hands (impossible in the top three) and I have a slight build. Getting something dislodged out of a drawer in the back would have to be done by removing them from the bottom and working up.

    Perhaps these cabinets are intended to use drawers where tools are organized with dividers so that items are difficult to dislodge over the back edge of the drawer. I will say that the drawers are cut to fit very tightly between the dividers probably to minimize this occurrence. I'll forewarn my daughter for whom this Cabinet is intended--no miscellaneous drawer.

    Beautiful work on your chest!

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    • #77

      Re: North Bennet Style Tool Box Build or How I Embraced the Covid 19 Lockdown

      Spring Joint, Panel Raising and Another Chance to Disguise a Mistake

      When assembling the panels for the case, I had used spring joints but had not taken photos as I had not thought of posting this thread yet. The door panel offers a chance to take some photos. The advantage of the spring joint is the use of one clamp to accomplish what formerly would have required at least 3 Bessey K clamps. I think that a superior surface alignment of the joint results as well.

      The door panel was initially two boards joined in the centre with a spring joint. The grain pattern was carefully chosen to be two opposing cathedrals with the grain of both boards flowing in the same direction for easy planing. The photos reveal a change in the panel composition when an error in the panel raising cuts forced the addition of a small board to to the panel. This gave a opportunity to photo the gap in the spring joint that wasn't taken during the initial glue up.

      Photo 1 shows the addition of a small board to add width back onto the panel using a spring joint. The joint was formed by folding the top board back over the bottom one to form one surface from the 2 board edges and planing the gap out of the middle of the surface. This joint is 24" long. I used a #4 plane and took a cut about 6" long out of the middle of the joint. Then I moved back and took another cut about 12" long again out of the centre. Moved back again about 2" from the end of the joint to cut again stopping 2” from the end. These cuts require increasing pressure on the plane toe for the first half then decreasing pressure on the toe and increasing down pressure from the tote for the 2nd half of the cut, swooping down at the start of the cut and then up at the end. Finally a cut is made full length of the joint. A gap of about .006" results in the middle as shown the light behind the joint.

      Glue is applied liberally, spring clamps press the surface even at the board ends, then a pipe clamp pressed the joint closed in the middle while testing with a finger to ensure that the entire surface is coming together evenly. The clamp pressure from the screw is applied directly over the edge of the boards being joined. If the joint is not meeting perfectly, the clamp pressure points can be adjusted to move the surface either way by altering the pressure point of the clamp screw from the centre of the board. As the joint closes, the squeeze out will move from the edges to the centre.

      The panel was planed to a nice surface. The panel was sized and cut to fit inside the groove of the frame so that the panel would leave a 1/32nd" space at the groove bottom. To raise the panel, the table saw was set to a 7 degrees angle cut 1.5" high. As it turned out, the door panel was too wide and needed trimming.

      The saw setup was changed to rip a little more off the door panel. Returning to recut the raised panel the 7 degree saw angle was not restored. Dah! As photo 1 shows. I had to add the 2” piece back on and then recut the raised panel. So much for the planning of the grain on the panel.
      Last edited by cfbuck; 07-21-2021, 07:56 AM. Reason: Photo captions and corrections

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