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As Egon has noted, what has worked for me is the 45 bevel cut on the TS followed by a clean-up on the router table with a 45* bit. Ensure that you have the material confined well with hold-downs for better results. Roy
Are you solving the problem, or becoming part of it?
Depending on what it is that you trying to build, one method is this:
a- cut a piece 2x the needed width of what you need plus your margin or error (~1/4" to 3/4') at 90deg blade b- set the blade to 45deg as close as you can c- rip the piece described in "a" in the middle (remember: the blade's entry point into the wood is not the center of the piece, so consider that in your measurement) d- flip the pieces and mate the beveled edges to get a perfect 90deg inside/outside corner
But then again, we still don't know what it is exactly you are trying to build. That info very useful in selecting the method. Otherwise we may be spinning our wheels for nothing.
In order to understand recursion, one must first understand recursion
Ok it's a bevel cut! How long? What wood? What is it for? The sears link didn't show a saw for me. What model # is it? [Jack asked that too] Is it a left tilt or a right tilt saw? etc.
FYI an uncontrolled bevel cut can be one of the most dangerous operations you can do on a Table saw. Make sure nothing valuable is standing behind the saw. Including your kids, or girl friend, etc.
Hmm... that Sears link works for me. The saw that is similar is Craftsman 21807. Just a cheap 10" sears table saw. The blade tilts only to the left.
I am making a jewelry box and usually rabit the corners but I wanted to miter them at 45 degrees this time. The wood is 5/8" cherry and the box will by 6" x 4" when it is done. (actually a jewelry box/music box)
I do like the idea of the 45 degree router cut using my router table. That might give me a more accurate cut. But I don't think I have a router bit that is big enough to do that sized cut. Also i don't understand how to make this cut on my jointer. It is end grain I think the jointer is not going to do well on it.
Also it is not that I have the saw set wrong, it is that every cut I make is slightly different than the previous. No consistency. I don't think I will ever get a proper cut from this saw with a tilted blade.
One method that gives you a perfect 45* bevel every time is a large chamfering bit in your router table. For doing the end of a narrow piece you must use a sled or keep it held securely to a sacrificial piece of wood. Works very well for beveling long pieces as well. For the end a toy box for example, you can use a clamped straight edge to guide your router. Just get a decent bit with a 1/2" shank. Personally I hate cutting bevels on the table saw, too many things to go wrong.
Use a router table with a 45 degree bit (chamfer).
If you have to use the table saw you can get good results (exact 90 degree after assembly) even if your bevel angle is not exactly 45 by doing the following assuming your pieces are not too big (which sounds to be the case): cut one piece flat on the table and cut the other piece vertically running against the fence (or a sacrificial fence). In this case make sure the fence is 90 degree to the table. The error in one cut will be compensated by the error in the other cut and you get 90 degree once you join them.
Remember, we are here to share, learn, and enjoy. Relax.
Hmm... that Sears link works for me. The saw that is similar is Craftsman 21807. Just a cheap 10" sears table saw. The blade tilts only to the left.
I am making a jewelry box and usually rabit the corners but I wanted to miter them at 45 degrees this time. The wood is 5/8" cherry and the box will by 6" x 4" when it is done. (actually a jewelry box/music box)
I do like the idea of the 45 degree router cut using my router table. That might give me a more accurate cut. But I don't think I have a router bit that is big enough to do that sized cut. Also i don't understand how to make this cut on my jointer. It is end grain I think the jointer is not going to do well on it.
Also it is not that I have the saw set wrong, it is that every cut I make is slightly different than the previous. No consistency. I don't think I will ever get a proper cut from this saw with a tilted blade.
Four inches is a tad to short for the jointer. You may have to work a wider piece and then cut to size.
Working in those dimensions the router mounted in just a small table may be what will work best. The bit can be found. Different ways to set it up.
Miter Saw with clamped wood work piece would also work well. The way cut the bevel and hold the wood should be considered. Keep the bevel down.
I have a Craftsman table saw several levels better than the 21807. I tried making a cabinet with bevelled edges all around a couple of years ago. It was about 10 inches wide. I had no end of trouble getting reliable, accurate cuts. Fortunately the cabinet was intended to hold chisels so as a shop box it was OK eventually. I found no matter what I did the wood wandered slightly so the end cut was not exact. I think you are asking too much from your saw as others have already suggested.
Other than this one situation the saw has performed very well.
Well thanks all this was very helpful. I won't waste my time and wood trying to get this saw to make the bevel cut anymore. I do have a fairly good quality 12" miter saw I will make some test cuts with that one and see how accurate and consistent it is. With smaller pieces though I am hesitant to use it. Also I should probably get a better finish blade the one on it is ok but not super.
I have been playing around with my dovetail jig. On my test piece the end of the piece chipped out the last entire pin. I was attempting a half blind joint. I think I am pushing too hard and maybe not running the router at a high enough speed. It's a brand new bit. It is tricky for sure I am very tempted to just going back to rabits!
I would keep working on a bevels and DTS. Every new skill is a challenge at the start. In my shop, there are some things that look impressive that are actually easy for me to do - but that's only because i've been doing those things for a while, and all of them were challenges at the start. Just keep working at this, and one day you'll catch yourself whipping off a perfect bevel joint or DT with ease, and you'll smile at the memory of the time that it was hard for you.
Well thanks all this was very helpful. I won't waste my time and wood trying to get this saw to make the bevel cut anymore. I do have a fairly good quality 12" miter saw I will make some test cuts with that one and see how accurate and consistent it is. With smaller pieces though I am hesitant to use it. Also I should probably get a better finish blade the one on it is ok but not super.
I have been playing around with my dovetail jig. On my test piece the end of the piece chipped out the last entire pin. I was attempting a half blind joint. I think I am pushing too hard and maybe not running the router at a high enough speed. It's a brand new bit. It is tricky for sure I am very tempted to just going back to rabits!
Well thanks all this was very helpful. I won't waste my time and wood trying to get this saw to make the bevel cut anymore. I do have a fairly good quality 12" miter saw I will make some test cuts with that one and see how accurate and consistent it is. With smaller pieces though I am hesitant to use it. Also I should probably get a better finish blade the one on it is ok but not super.
I have been playing around with my dovetail jig. On my test piece the end of the piece chipped out the last entire pin. I was attempting a half blind joint. I think I am pushing too hard and maybe not running the router at a high enough speed. It's a brand new bit. It is tricky for sure I am very tempted to just going back to rabits!
I'm going to guess the smallest piece you are cutting is 4 inches long and 4 inches tall. Any good miter saw will do that cut safely and with ease. If you are worried about safety, clamp the piece securely in place. You do need a decent, solid saw and a good sharp blade though.
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