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  • Long-Bladed Marking Knife

    A couple years ago while working on a chair [link], I found myself needing to layout the position of the seat slats on the centre rail, which was basically a cross-lap joint. Normally, I'd use my marking knife for this operation, but due to the thickness of the components, my marking knife wasn't able to reach.

    So I grabbed an old chisel and quickly ground a spear point on the end to make my marks, then proceeded to complete the project.

    For this build, I intend to turn transform that roughly-ground chisel into a fine, long-bladed marking knife.
    Chris Wong
    http://flairwoodworks.com

    If you have a hard time getting things perfectly level, maybe you need a First Guess Gravity Gauge.
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  • #2

    Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

    Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

    This is what I started with. (Testing image size)
    Click image for larger version

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    Chris Wong
    http://flairwoodworks.com

    If you have a hard time getting things perfectly level, maybe you need a First Guess Gravity Gauge.

    Comment


    • #3

      Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

      Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

      Originally posted by flairwoodworks View Post
      This is what I started with. (Testing image size)
      Chris -- TRY THIS and you won't have to resize any pics at all.

      Comment


      • #4

        Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

        Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

        I think that at some point, somebody used the chisel with a steel hammer without a handle in the socket, so the inside taper had a lip. Since I want a handle for the marking knife, I started by filing the taper smooth.

        Click image for larger version

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        I lapped the back on my coarsest diamond stone.

        Click image for larger version

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        I applied blue layout fluid to the back of the knife and used my regular woodworking tools to layout the shape of the knife point.

        Click image for larger version

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        With my bench grinder's tool rest at 90 degrees, I ground the profile of the knife.
        Click image for larger version

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        Then, I tilted the tool rest and ground the bevels. Here are the finished bevels.

        Click image for larger version

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        Chris Wong
        http://flairwoodworks.com

        If you have a hard time getting things perfectly level, maybe you need a First Guess Gravity Gauge.

        Comment


        • #5

          Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

          Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

          Of course, as soon as I finished grinding the edge, I dropped it on the floor. Fortunately, I have these great mats on the floor that protect my feet, dropped tools and wood parts.

          Click image for larger version

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          I selected a piece of dogwood with interesting grain and mounted it on the lathe.

          Click image for larger version

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          I turned a taper on the end, and test-fit it frequently with the knife socket. By rotating the handle in the socket, I was able to see where it was rubbing. I removed those parts and kept checking the fit until the parts mated well.

          Click image for larger version

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          After messing up the taper once, I cut the blank shorter and tried again, this time successfully. Here's a picture of the handle blank with the proper taper, with a handle I used for shape inspiration on top of the lathe.

          Click image for larger version

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          I shaped the handle and sanded it up to 180-grit on the lathe. I like using old Abranet discs, as they let the sawdust pass right through them and consequently allow me to more easily create a smooth, even surface. At this point, I used a hand saw to cut off the handle and hand-sanded the end.

          Click image for larger version

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          Here's the handle after a coat of Minwax Antique Oil. I might do one more coat, or I might not.

          Click image for larger version

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          While the oil was drying, I finished the blade. I used a Medium Rust Eraser to remove tarnish from the blade, lapped the back of the blade to 600-grit, and ground the bevels flat (mostly for aesthetic reasons). I finished sharpening the knife with a leather strop charged with Veritas honing compound.
          Chris Wong
          http://flairwoodworks.com

          If you have a hard time getting things perfectly level, maybe you need a First Guess Gravity Gauge.

          Comment


          • #6

            Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

            Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

            Here is the completed handle.

            Click image for larger version

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            Here is the completed long marking knife.

            Click image for larger version

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            Chris Wong
            http://flairwoodworks.com

            If you have a hard time getting things perfectly level, maybe you need a First Guess Gravity Gauge.

            Comment

            • Thread Continues Below...

            • #7

              Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

              Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

              Nice looking knife, Chris. What is the overall length?
              Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

              Comment


              • #8

                Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

                Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

                Nice work Chris

                Well done.

                Comment


                • #9

                  Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

                  Re: Long-Bladed Marking Knife

                  Hi Mark,

                  The usable length of blade is 4-1/2", and the tool is 8-1/4" long overall.
                  Chris Wong
                  http://flairwoodworks.com

                  If you have a hard time getting things perfectly level, maybe you need a First Guess Gravity Gauge.

                  Comment

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