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  • Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

    I've decided that i'm sick and tired of moving my dust collector from tool to tool (didn't take long!) and so I'd like to run some basic ducting.

    I have a King 2HP Cyclone. It has a 6" inlet. It's currently sitting on the north wall of my shop as is my jointer, bandsaw and router table. So its logical to simply run some 6" pipe straight down the length of the north wall with an occasional wye take-off to connect to each tool with a blast gate in between. I also have an "island" in the middle of the garage (two car 22x21) that has my cabinet saw and my planer. So, I was thinking of splitting the north wall "branch" a few feet out of the dust collector with a "wye" and taking a second "branch" over head to the middle of the shop, dropping down a conveniently located 6x6 post (the supports some overhead storage) and connecting to the tools in the island.

    The cyclone seems to have good suction, but then i've only ever had a 10 foot long 5" flex connected to it that was connected directly to the tool. I understand I need to keep the ducting to a minimum with a dust collector my size and also to keep the turns gradual.

    I'd like to use metal duct but i'm a little confused. I understand I should get the 26 gauge stuff as the normal stuff for residential hvac might be too thin. That makes sense. I've read that the "wyes" and other fittings for normal hvac are different than those used for dust collection (ie.. the wyes are in reverse). Does that mean I have to source expensive fittings from the likes of Oneida etc? I could make a trip to Welbeck's, but If I can find everything local in Barrie, I'd prefer it.

    I did consider PVC too -- and am not totally opposed to it, but from my understanding as soon as you need anything larger than 4" sewer pipe, it becomes costly?

    Anyone have any suggestions?
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  • #2

    Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

    I don't think you will have any issues with heavy gauge snap lock,have a local tin basher make your wyes and tee wyes as they need to be gradual,same with any 90's ,residential stuff is to abrupt. If you use snap lock ,use duct tape,the real foil stuff to tape all the seems and joints.
    you may want to reduce the dia down to five at the drops
    Last edited by al.m..; 02-03-2018, 05:34 AM.
    Millhouse421 likes this.

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    • #3

      Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

      A 2 hp blower has no chance of collapsing ductwork.
      A 5 hp might but not a 2.

      Your plan sounds good.
      Id go with 5 or 6” overhead main and 4 or 5” drops to the machines.

      Nathan

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      • #4

        Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

        Why can't you use regular HVAC fittings? I don't understand the reverse part. I used regular snaplock pipe and regular fittings which I bought from my furnace guy for a little cheaper than they were at rona. Once I foil taped all the joints, the pipe worked fine as far as I can tell.

        The only thing was the crimping. Often, either on a cut length of pipe or a fitting, I had to crimp and end. In the past I've just done that with needle nose pliers - just clamp on and give a little turn ever inch or so - and that's worked ok, but not the best and it's slow. So when I repiped recently I bought a crimping tool from BORG for $30, which seemed overpriced but it was so worth it. Crimping was so quick and easy then.

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        • #5

          Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

          Originally posted by callee
          Why can't you use regular HVAC fittings? I don't understand the reverse part. I used regular snaplock pipe and regular fittings which I bought from my furnace guy for a little cheaper than they were at rona. Once I foil taped all the joints, the pipe worked fine as far as I can tell.

          The only thing was the crimping. Often, either on a cut length of pipe or a fitting, I had to crimp and end. In the past I've just done that with needle nose pliers - just clamp on and give a little turn ever inch or so - and that's worked ok, but not the best and it's slow. So when I repiped recently I bought a crimping tool from BORG for $30, which seemed overpriced but it was so worth it. Crimping was so quick and easy then.
          Ryan,

          Did you use thicker gauge 26 gauge snaplock or did you use the regular 30 gauge stuff that you can buy at the Borg?



          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          • #6

            Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

            Originally posted by al.m..
            I don't think you will have any issues with heavy gauge snap lock,have a local tin basher make your wyes and tee wyes as they need to be gradual,same with any 90's ,residential stuff is to abrupt. If you use snap lock ,use duct tape,the real foil stuff to tape all the seems and joints.
            you may want to reduce the dia down to five at the drops
            So you think it’s worth trying to find the 26 gauge stuff vs the more common 30 gauge stuff that’s common for residential hvac?

            Also these Wyes look good to me.... should I be looking for something else? In 6 in of course.

            https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.5...000178923.html



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            • #7

              Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

              The "reverse" part is where most furnace fittings are made to blow air not suck. If you are creative enough you should be able to work with it. I used mostly 4" thin wall drain pipe from my local stores. My main run is maybe 8 feet.

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              • #8

                Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                Originally posted by mwarning View Post

                So you think it’s worth trying to find the 26 gauge stuff vs the more common 30 gauge stuff that’s common for residential hvac?

                Also these Wyes look good to me.... should I be looking for something else? In 6 in of course.

                https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.5...000178923.html




                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                26 gauge should be off the shelf at most building centres,Home Depot for sure,and I agree the wye looks ok.The long sweep 90's may be more difficult to find

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                • #9

                  Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                  Originally posted by mwarning View Post

                  Ryan,

                  Did you use thicker gauge 26 gauge snaplock or did you use the regular 30 gauge stuff that you can buy at the Borg?



                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  Honestly not sure. Like I said, I just asked my furnace guy if he could supply me, and him being a good guy, he said sure. It cut and crimped pretty easily, so it's probably the thinner stuff. I've certainly never had any issues with the pipe collapsing or anything though. Quite often the DC will be on while I use one tool, then I shut that tool off, close the gate, and go over to the next tool, set it up, then open its gate and go to work. The point there being that there are times when the DC is running but no gates are open, and so if there was going to be a collapse then I've sure it would be then, but I haven't seen anything close. The DC is a craftex, 2 or 3 hp, I forget which, and like nathan said, I can't imagine it could ever be a problem.

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                  • #10

                    Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                    IF you had a very long straight piece (10')directly off the DC,
                    AND you had every gate closed at the same time it COULD collapse regular 30gauge duct work

                    but as Nathan pointed out, a regular 2hp DC really isn't at risk of creating that much vacuum.
                    My 3hp industrial cyclone has a few feet of 30gauge duct and it is fine.


                    look around, find the best price and go at it.
                    as much time, research & effort as some people (including myself) have spent trying to get the absolute BEST system, I would have been better off just building the system and getting back to actual woodworking.

                    collecting 75% of the dust is better than anything less, and when the machines are hard ducted with as big a duct as possible (6" ideally) than you can always upgrade the actual dust collector if you want to improve the amount collected.
                    [insert something witty here]

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                    • #11

                      Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                      My first DC in 2004 was a 2HP Craftex and not knowing a whole lot at the time I just did an install with the snap together duct and regular fittings. It was probably 30 ga. It was continually oil canning and I eventually collapsed a 15' section beyond repair. When I got my Clearvue CV1800 I installed 6" PVC sewer pipe. While poo pooed by many I run 6" PVC ducting available at reasonable price from most places that sell septic systems. Easy to install, modify and abundant fittings. They added bonus is true 6"+ inside diameter, joints don't have to be glued or sealed. A lot of myths about static floating around but the fact of the matter is there are no reported incidents and metal has a long track record of dust related explosions.

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                      • #12

                        Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                        Originally posted by beakie
                        IF you had a very long straight piece (10')directly off the DC,
                        AND you had every gate closed at the same time it COULD collapse regular 30gauge duct work

                        but as Nathan pointed out, a regular 2hp DC really isn't at risk of creating that much vacuum.
                        My 3hp industrial cyclone has a few feet of 30gauge duct and it is fine.


                        look around, find the best price and go at it.
                        as much time, research & effort as some people (including myself) have spent trying to get the absolute BEST system, I would have been better off just building the system and getting back to actual woodworking.

                        collecting 75% of the dust is better than anything less, and when the machines are hard ducted with as big a duct as possible (6" ideally) than you can always upgrade the actual dust collector if you want to improve the amount collected.
                        Should read “every gate open”. Every gate closed = no air is flowing = no vacuum in the circuit. The fan is doing no work so the motor can spin it at no load rpm.
                        Don

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                        • #13

                          Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                          Alright, so I think I have my plan in place. Found 26 gauge snap lock at Lowes. I also found the wye fittings there too, but I'm still confused a bit on those. From what I've read people talk about these residential fittings being "backward" in terms of flow which I suppose makes sense in their regular use. The common advise is to flatten out the crimping on the one end and instead, add it to the other. However, in this photo from Lowes, I'm not seeing why I'd have to do that... If the crimped end is always on the side "closest" to the dust collector, then what is the issue? Am I missing something?


                          Click image for larger version

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                          • #14

                            Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                            Nope, you are not missing anything, you'r correct. Say planner on the top in the image, saw on the right and crimped end going to the suck unit. Callee and Beakie summed it pretty good above, go for it.

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                            • #15

                              Re: Duct work for my 2 car garage.. help?!

                              LOL, Lowes must have caught on finally to the "Canadian Way".

                              When I finished my system in Aug/2015 the fittings I purchased there had the double ends crimped !

                              Which worked perfectly, the crimped ends fit snugly onto blast gates...

                              Click image for larger version

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                              Cheers, Don
                              Don Kondra - Furniture Designer/Maker
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