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I got my dust collector on the wall today.

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    I got the wire over to the machine and its alive. Wha hoo. Feels really good. I need to get a 15 amp 220 switch for it now and when I can swing it I will get a remote for it. Its not in the wallet to splurge on it right now. It will come though.

    I can run the piping over to the table saw now. This is going to be great. Want to do that tomorrow. Then I can start the next project.

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    Nice to hear.

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  • Lost in the Woods
    replied
    I took my 2 HP King extractor off it's roller base 15 years ago and affixed its base motor/impeller unit onto my wall. No regrets. I did it for a variety of fitting/space considerations primarily. One of the unexpected ancillary benefits was that the unit functions way more efficiently. I actually get what is a vortex effect in the collection bin once I also switched my upper bag to a pleated canister filter which also gave me a lot more suction, I have no need to go to a cyclone as I feel I'm pretty well getting it anyways.

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    Here is the new look for it. Yay. Click image for larger version

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    I had to open the overhead door and grab a pic. I didn't empty that side out to work on anything today. I know you cant really see anything. I will get better pics tomorrow maybe. It was raining too much. I have a huge plywood cart that I need to pull out and a couple other carts to get at the bench right now. I am hoping that I won't have to worry about having a plywood cart and that will be cut down or maybe eliminated totally.

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    No I need to run a wire over for it. But I figured the rubber floor pad cant do any harm. I know the collector runs fine. The fella I got it off ran it for me while I was there.

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Have you run the DC yet?

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    So yes I took it off the wall and cut a piece of plywood. Took a floor matt and cut it to the size of the plywood. Then I used spray adhesive 77 to glue a floor pad to one side. The took the pieces I cut off and put pieces of it under the edge of the collector motor housing. Glues them in place and screwed it down to the plywood. I then screwed the plywood to one stud and bobs your aunties uncles brothers sister. Im ready to run a 6" as far as I have to then branch off with 4" to the machines. Im hoping to get that done tomorrow.

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    Ok I can do that. I have those foam floor squares I can cut one to make up isolation pads for it then bond one whole piece to the back of the plywood to mount that to the wall. Maybe put foam behind that. Differing materials may cut down sound and vibration frequency as well. Thanks for the tip.

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  • beakie
    replied
    the Y could just be pressure fit, considering it seems to be plastic (or atleast a seperate piece than the plate)
    just noticed your update, good to hear.

    going to the full diameter should see a big increase in performance.

    as for isolating via foam, the lags will still transmit the vibrations.
    you could do as you planned, but lag a piece of plywood to the wall, large enough to then attach the DC to it.
    lag through the center of the plywood top & bottom into 1 stud, using foam as a spacer/standoff from the wall.
    then attach the DC as you have now, but again isolate it with foam AND use foam/rubber on the backside so the bolts are not directly against the plywood.
    it appears the DC has atleast 6 or even 8 bolts holding it to the wal, I think 4 would be enough, but if it's a concern use them all. considering 2 lags into the stud will be holding it up, err on safety if it is a concern, add more and reach 2 studs. just the more solid the attachment to the wall, the more vibes can be transmitted.



    not sure if any of that makes sense, I can try and draw a pic showing what I mean later... just heading to bed after night shift.


    basically, attach DC to a piece of ply, using foam/rubber to isolate it as much as possible.
    then attach that plywood to a single stud, or as few as possible, again isolating it as much as possible.
    Last edited by beakie; 03-24-2018, 06:37 AM.

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    I did get the Y off. It was tight and I really had to push on it. Shoved on one side and saw it tilt. After that a little twist and it came right out.

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    I could mount it on a piece of plywood and then put styrofoam behind that and lag it to the wall. That should get rid of any vibration transfer in to the wall right?

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  • Greg from K/W
    replied
    Awe good idea about the resonance. Thanks.

    As for the Y at the machine it came like that. I did unbolt the plate its mounted too and I could not find how to take that Y off. I was thinking the same thing use the biggest pipe to make the main run. I cannot see how the Y is attached. I looked inside the plate its attached too and could not see any fasteners at all. One run down the wall of my miter station with one Y to send a big run to the table saw and the planer would be great. Maybe that Y just pops off the plate?

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  • iamtooler
    replied
    Run it before you get too far along. You may have some resonance/vibration issues to resolve before you finish. Mounting machines to a wall (sounding board) can be tricky.
    Rob

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  • al.m..
    replied
    I agree with Marty,keep your main as large as the dc will support for as far as possiable,branch at the machine,not the dust collector

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  • MartyFromKingston
    replied
    Greg,

    Are you planning to use only one side of the vee inlet? If so, you could replace both with one, larger diameter pipe. That'd improve your ducting system's performance considerably.

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