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I modified the base on my Hitachi M12V to accomodate a larger diameter bit. Hacksaw and file did the trick.
If you don't want to cut your base, you could always add a sub-base to the top of your router table with a bigger opening, provided you can raise the bit high enough to make your cut.
If it similiar to your link it looks like a good file would take care of your problem in short order.If I read it correctly your Freud base is aluminum and your carbide router bit will go through Aluminum like butter. Put the Bit in the router, turn it on and then slowly lower the cutter through the base, Make sure any screws have been removed in the area that you are removing. I would really hestitate using a extension under any circumstance.
Just to add to Brian's comment...
I once saw Bob Rosendahl (the Router Workshop) do just this, plunge a big bit through a too small router base opening at a seminar. Brand new Hitachi router. The audience was stunned at first but it worked like a charm. He plunged the big bit fairly slowly and with considerable control. Nice silvery shavings.
If you do it, make sure there is no steel to come in contact with the bit and perhaps do something to prevent aluminum shavings getting into the router air vents. Oh yeah, wear face and hand protection!
Disclaimer: I've never done this myself.
I used my Dremel with a small grinding wheel to increase the size of the opening in my Makita 3612C.
I'd really wonder whether the material to remove is aluminum or white metal. The Makita appears to be cast white metal which I think is harder than aluminum. I'm sure someone will corect me if I'm wrong.
Mack C. in Brooklin ON
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If you decide to use your router bit to cut the hole, make sure that you remove the screws that are in it for the template guide adapter.
I route off those tangs all the time with my raised panel bit and it works great.
Freud Canada Inc.
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I mount the bit outside the "ears" & clamp a false top on the router table.
Best Regards, Ron.
Thanks for all the advise - I hooked up with the Freud rep who said to leave things as is and run the bit above the base.
Once I took the boots off the plunge arms, I found that I got another 1/2" - 3/4" of travel which actual brought collet above the table. This make it very easy to put the bit in place. My router plate is 3/8" thick so I can put the bit in place and still have 1/4" of clearance. So I will just leave things as is.
The Freud rep also let me know that they are coming out with a new 3hp+ router, with the base plate larger and above the table adjustment. that might explain why the ft 2200 has been an sale lately?
I use a 3 1/2 raised panel bit in my freud FT2000E, I just have to keep it up father..I also took the springs and dust covers off.
The newer Freud FT2200 has a longer shaft, so it works much better..the base should be left alone..It needs to be that size to except the dust collection and Bushings.
YOu could go with a collet extender or buy a vertical raised panel bit.