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Thread: How to finish Walnut table top

  1. #1

    Default How to finish Walnut table top

    I have just completed a table using black walnut and about to finish. I intend to use a NGR dye then putting on wipe on poly. I read that with several coats and light sanding in between I could use it as a grain filler and then top coat at the end for a final finish with the same wipe on poly.

    I also read that I could stain, sand and seal with BLO ( or sand and seal with shellac) and Wipe on Poly to finish.

    Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default

    If you want to use the wipe-on poly as a grain filler, one way you can do it is to wet-sand with the poly. This will fill quicker than just applying the poly because it adds the sawdust into the mix and fills the pores quicker.

    ...ken...

  3. #3

    Default Finishing Table..

    Hi there..

    I replied to this post and the shellac as a sealer post together..

    If you need a complete schedule that will work just ask..

    ;)
    Axel Koch,

    AMS Inc. Painting
    http://www.amspainting.com
    Waterborne Coatings Distribution
    http://www.waterborne.ca

  4. #4

    Default Alex!!-Request for complete schedule

    Hello Alex

    Thanks for the information.
    Could you please post or message me the complete shedule to finish my walnut table top.

  5. #5

    Default Schedule..

    Did you want to do the table in solvent based or waterborne?

    On a scrap piece of wood step through this schedule to see the results..

    Solvent finish schedule

    - Finish sand the table 320g
    - Apply your NGR stain (if you find it to dark you need to pre-condition the wood with a conditioner that is compatible with the NGR)
    - Apply a 2# cut of blonde shellac (zinser sealcoat)2 light coats
    - Sand it lightly with 400g
    - Apply a clear polyester pore and grain filler as per directions on can
    - Sand it all back level with recommended grit for filler (220)
    - Sand it some more with 320-400
    - Apply your wiping varnish (not poly) in multiple thin, thin coats..
    - Apply 2-3 coats and then sand lightly with 400 to remove nubs
    - Repeat till you have 6-9 coats
    - Let cure for 7 days
    - Rub out to desired sheen using polishing compounds..

    I'll post the waterborne schedule as well later..
    Axel Koch,

    AMS Inc. Painting
    http://www.amspainting.com
    Waterborne Coatings Distribution
    http://www.waterborne.ca

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Northern Kentucky, USA
    Posts
    2,517

    Default

    Walnut pores seem to go forever... Trying to fill with poly or any other sealer will require a ton of applications and rubbing out. The sealer more than often only spans the pore and when you rub down for the next coat, it open up again. The best option is to seal and scuff one coat of either sanding sealer or your poly then wipe on a Paste Wood Filler (dark brown) Squeegie off the excess, allow to dry and buff sand the surface, The next coat of poly will shine like glass and the surface is ready. Add as many coats as you are confortable with but without the filler, you will be finishing come Christmas to get a total smooth surface.
    Bill "Hickory" Simpson

  7. #7

    Default Polyesyet Gain Filler..

    Hi Bill,

    The polyester grain fillers I am referring to are a trowel grade clear grain filler. They work identical to a paste but are clear.. In most cases you can brush them on and then squeegee the excess off. Once dry you sand off all the excess and the fill is complete.

    Paste fillers obscure the grain and the figure of the wood, where as a clear polyester filler will not..
    Axel Koch,

    AMS Inc. Painting
    http://www.amspainting.com
    Waterborne Coatings Distribution
    http://www.waterborne.ca

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Axel_in_Courtenay
    Hi Bill,

    The polyester grain fillers I am referring to are a trowel grade clear grain filler. They work identical to a paste but are clear.. In most cases you can brush them on and then squeegee the excess off. Once dry you sand off all the excess and the fill is complete.

    Paste fillers obscure the grain and the figure of the wood, where as a clear polyester filler will not..
    Axel-- Are there any brand names that you would recommend? Does Becker make one for under Lacquer?

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wally in Calgary
    Axel-- Are there any brand names that you would recommend? Does Becker make one for under Lacquer?
    Check with Jeff at Woodessence. He has some clear grain fillers. I don't recall the brands, but I'll be trying one out this winter when I get back to a piece that I'm doing in walnut.

    ...ken...

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken in Regina
    Check with Jeff at Woodessence. He has some clear grain fillers. I don't recall the brands, but I'll be trying one out this winter when I get back to a piece that I'm doing in walnut.

    ...ken...
    I have my own supplier right here in Calgary!!! I was asking Axel which one he prefers to use as he has the chance to use and try different products daily in his job.

  11. #11

    Talking Grain Filler

    Hi Wally,

    I use the HSF 5100 from Target Coatings of course. This is available in stock from us at Waterborne.ca and can be special ordered from Wood Essence. This is of course a waterborne grain filler that is totally clear when dry.

    As for solvent based polyesters, you'll have to shop around locally. ML Campbell has one, your Becker reps should be able to find some and any high end automotive supplier will also have trowel grade clear polyester.

    I used to do it the old way and mix my sawdust with reduced shellac and wet sand that back into the pores. Very time consuming messy and had to be done 2-3 times..
    Axel Koch,

    AMS Inc. Painting
    http://www.amspainting.com
    Waterborne Coatings Distribution
    http://www.waterborne.ca

  12. #12

    Default

    Thanks Axel!!

  13. #13

    Default Thanks Alex

    Thanks for the information.

    I will be looking forward to your water based method and schedule. Hoping to use this instead because of the low odour.

    Thanks again

  14. #14

    Thumbs up waterborne schedule

    This schedule may be a bit product specific but I have yet to find another manufacturer that has all these required products in one place..

    Waterborne finish schedule..

    Create a test panel by the following schedule..

    - Finish sand the table 320g
    - Apply your NGR stain (if you find it to dark you need to pre-condition the wood with a conditioner that is compatible with the NGR)
    - Apply a 2# cut of blonde waterbased shellac sealer (Target Coatings)2 light coats
    - Sand it lightly with 400g
    - Apply a clear polyester pore and grain filler (HSF 5100 from Target Coatings) as per directions on can
    - Sand it all back level with recommended grit for filler (320)
    - Sand it some more with 400
    - Apply your high grade waterborne gloss polyurethane such as EM9300 or EM9100 from Target Coatings in multiple thin, thin coats preferably by spray..
    - Apply 2-3 coats and then sand lightly with 400 to remove nubs
    - Repeat till you have 6-9 coats
    - Let cure for 3 days
    - Rub out to desired sheen using polishing compounds or abralon pads..

    If you are looking for a off the gun finish or a satin finish the top coats recommended above come in satin sheens that are relatively perfect off the gun.

    Please keep in mind that the waterborne products are very thickness specific. Most waterborne coatings should only be applied 2-4 mils wet film thickness. When you exceed the thickness or rush the re-coat time you can cause the product to blush, this will leave a bluish or purple-ish haze on the finish for several months until the solvents work their way out..
    Axel Koch,

    AMS Inc. Painting
    http://www.amspainting.com
    Waterborne Coatings Distribution
    http://www.waterborne.ca

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