FREE SAMPLE ISSUE FREE NEWSLETTER DIGITAL ISSUE PREVIEW

Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: screws for melamine

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Barrie
    Posts
    106
    Real Name
    Richard

    Default screws for melamine

    Just want to find out what type of screws to use for melamine cabinet construction. I have used the confirmat type screws before but they are a bit expensive and a pain to predrill on a large project. ( didnt have the stepped drill bit for them) Also if this is the best option where can I get the drill bit? I think I remember seeing it at lee valley but cant be sure and I cant seem to find it in the online cataloge.

    Thanks for the help

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sarnia ont
    Posts
    9,477
    Real Name
    Steve Morris

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    im sure LV carries the conformat screws and bits, i couldnt find them either

    #8 by 1 1/2 particle board screws work well, experiment a little to get the right pilot hole size, the right one will countersink the screw a tiny bit and not spin out and a biscuit or two will keep the parts aligned and provide some glueing surface
    my shop is a beaver lodge
    steve, sarnia, ont

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Muir, near Woodstock,Ont.
    Posts
    4,799

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    I have used confirmat screws many years ago and then switched to regular wood screws. I now used type 17 assembly screws. They look a bit like a regular wood screw but have a deep root, smaller shank and a cutter on the end of the screw. This cutter seems to help with the splitting of hardwoods. Some use particle board screws which are very similiar to assembly screws but do not have the cutter on the end.

    Brian
    " It is nice to be important but more important to be nice"

  4. #4

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    I have been using 1&1/2"- #8 coarse thread gold colored plated screws for assembling the melamine boxes for my son's kitchen. I had a plastic jar of 600 and went today to get another at the local Castle lumberyard. I was shocked at the $30 price tag so asked if they still had bulk screws. Got 3 pounds of the same screws for $12 which filled the jar .

    hobby woodworking since 1972

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Sugarbush near Horeseshoe Valley, Ontario
    Posts
    961
    Real Name
    Don

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    Quote Originally Posted by stevem View Post
    im sure LV carries the conformat screws and bits, i couldnt find them either

    #8 by 1 1/2 particle board screws work well, experiment a little to get the right pilot hole size, the right one will countersink the screw a tiny bit and not spin out and a biscuit or two will keep the parts aligned and provide some glueing surface
    Hi Steve
    Do do suggest that you glue kitchen cabinets?
    I am planning on using #8 x 2" PB as recommended by Mr. Proulx.
    Pre drill with a 1/8" with countersink.
    Last edited by HorseshoeHobby; 04-11-2009 at 02:14 PM.
    CHEERS
    Don B

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sarnia ont
    Posts
    9,477
    Real Name
    Steve Morris

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    glueing a melamine coated box wont do any good unless you rabbett all of the sides

    i would suggest using biscuits and glueing them in, a good biscuit joiner will make all of the pieces self aligning during assembly and the biscuit will strengthen the joint

    any of your cabinets that have a finished or exposed side, then just use biscuits on the exposed side
    my shop is a beaver lodge
    steve, sarnia, ont

  7. #7

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    [quote=reduni;219750]
    Just want to find out what type of screws to use for melamine cabinet construction.
    Here's my choice!
    http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,41315
    Mack C. in Brooklin (Whitby) ON
    It feels really great to sell a pen;
    It feels even greater to give one to a friend!

    If your presence doesn't make an impact,
    Your absence won't make a difference!

    I am a proud supporter of
    "Pens for Canadian Peacekeepers"!
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/One-o...95203433854962

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Ottawa
    Posts
    3,116

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    [quote=Mack C. in Brooklin ON;219790]
    Quote Originally Posted by reduni View Post
    I forgot how good those screws are.....Do you use a #6 ?? I imagine you still have to predrill a little bit though.
    Paul

  9. #9

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    [quote=OttawaP;219792][quote=Mack C. in Brooklin ON;219790]

    I forgot how good those screws are.....
    Do you use a #6 ??
    Hi Paul; It's been a couple of years now, but when I compare the heads, it appears I used # 8's x 1".
    I imagine you still have to predrill a little bit though.
    Not withstanding the literature advising drilling isn't necessary, I still predrilled. That ensures the hole is exactly where you want it to be.
    Mack C. in Brooklin (Whitby) ON
    It feels really great to sell a pen;
    It feels even greater to give one to a friend!

    If your presence doesn't make an impact,
    Your absence won't make a difference!

    I am a proud supporter of
    "Pens for Canadian Peacekeepers"!
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/One-o...95203433854962

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Spruce Grove Alberta
    Posts
    176

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    I use #8 1 1/2 for 3/4 stock #8 1 1/4 for 5/8 stock. My personal preferences are to predrill with 1/8 and set countersink depth at approx 1/4 shy of the screws nominal length. Also, during assembly I find the biscuit joiner to be really excessive, slow, and abrasive to the melamine surface and the edge banding. I just shoot it all together with 1 1/4 18ga brads before piloting and screwing. Very efficient and works quite well. It should be noted that my preferred melamine construction practices are based on the so called "higher grade" denser pine particle core, not the softer and less dense lower grade.
    If at first you don't succeed do it the way you were told.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Ottawa
    Posts
    774

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    http://cabinetmaking.com/pages/hardware.htm#screws

    2" particle board screws and the Dimar carbide countersink work well for me (and Danny too)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Weyburn, Sask.
    Posts
    315

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    2 " partical board screw, I get mine bulk from Richeleau. Some excellent counter sinks there also. 4 screws per side on the uppers will hold anything. minimum 1.5 inches back from a corner.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Barrie
    Posts
    106
    Real Name
    Richard

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    Thanks for all the advice. I'll be looking into some of the screws from lee valley I think and giving them a try.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Victoria B.C.
    Posts
    33

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    Quote Originally Posted by Wish Upon A Saw Inc. View Post
    I use #8 1 1/2 for 3/4 stock #8 1 1/4 for 5/8 stock. My personal preferences are to predrill with 1/8 and set countersink depth at approx 1/4 shy of the screws nominal length. Also, during assembly I find the biscuit joiner to be really excessive, slow, and abrasive to the melamine surface and the edge banding. I just shoot it all together with 1 1/4 18ga brads before piloting and screwing. Very efficient and works quite well. It should be noted that my preferred melamine construction practices are based on the so called "higher grade" denser pine particle core, not the softer and less dense lower grade.
    This is pretty well exactly how I assemble kitchen cabinets, only difference being I typically use 1,1/4" staples and I'll drop to a #6 1,1/2 screw for 5/8. Once the cabinets are screwed together gable to gable and fasten to the wall, they are pretty darn strong, with exception to the rails on the lowers until counters are installed.

    stevem said:

    glueing a melamine coated box wont do any good unless you rabbett all of the sides

    i would suggest using biscuits and glueing them in, a good biscuit joiner will make all of the pieces self aligning during assembly and the biscuit will strengthen the joint

    any of your cabinets that have a finished or exposed side, then just use biscuits on the exposed side
    This is also excellent advise for melamine boxes, although a little time consuming. It also brings up a good point about finishing end gables when you screw and staple/pin your boxes together. I have two different ways I like to deal with it.

    1) You can p-lam or veneer your exposed end gables after assembly with materials that match what your doors are made of. But, this leaves a gap between the door and cabinet and a bit of the euro hinge exposed(when viewed from the side), which is fine for cabinets in the garage or laundry room, but very unsightly in a higher end kitchen. To avoid this gap I resort to option two.

    2) Option 2 is to use another gable that is the same thickness and style of your doors. For example, if your using style and rail doors, make up another door to use for the end gable. This gable should be wide enough to cover the exposed gable, the 1/8 gap and your door thickness, essentially giving you the look of an inset door. Fasten this finished gable from the inside of the cabinet. I will typically cut this panel 1/8" oversize (in width) incase the wall its going to butt up against isnt pretty and I need to scribe the panel for a nice tight fit rather than load the gap with caulking(yuk). Just make sure the gable is flush with the door face and has the same gap between them that you have for the rest of the doors and thats it. If I have some free time I will try to post some pics of each type.

    Hope that helped. And sorry for going a bit off topic.

    Craig

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sarnia ont
    Posts
    9,477
    Real Name
    Steve Morris

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    you might want to check the other thread going here too on screws and base cabinets, there's a pic of what i do to the end of a run of cabinets to hide all kinds of sins including the hinges as brought up by Craig

    here's the pic
    Attached Images Attached Images
    my shop is a beaver lodge
    steve, sarnia, ont

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Saskatoon
    Posts
    779

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    Quote Originally Posted by stevem View Post
    glueing a melamine coated box wont do any good unless you rabbett all of the sides
    There are glues designed for melamine. Roo Glue and Titebond Melamine are two of them, there are probably others.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Saskatoon
    Posts
    779

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    [QUOTE=Mack C. in Brooklin ON;219790]
    Quote Originally Posted by reduni View Post
    Those are good, but somewhat pricey. I find these screws from Lee Valley to be excellent, and about half the price. The self-drilling version is a about 10% more expensive, still much less than the Spax.
    Last edited by Chris in Saskatoon; 04-13-2009 at 12:26 PM.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Victoria B.C.
    Posts
    33

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris in Saskatoon View Post
    There are glues designed for melamine. Roo Glue and Titebond Melamine are two of them, there are probably others.
    True, but I would still be screwing and stapling them together so as to not rely on just the glue.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Aylmer, QC
    Posts
    94

    Default Re: screws for melamine

    I have build lots of kitchen cabinets and always preferred to create a rabbet 5/8 x 1/8 at each end of the side pieces and then assembling by using glue and 1 crown staples. Also, since melamine come in 5/8 tick, it make it easier to calculate each parts.
    Example: 24 X 30 box would convert into two sides of 30 long and two pieces 23 for bottom and top.

Similar Threads

  1. Screws keep breaking off
    By Trevor in Ottawa in forum Woodworking
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 12-23-2008, 11:26 AM
  2. Drywall Screws for Woodworking
    By stevem in forum Woodworking
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 11-08-2008, 08:59 AM
  3. source for Longer brass/copper finish screws?
    By ArtMulder in forum Woodworking
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-20-2006, 07:10 PM
  4. glue, screws and pine question
    By oregon_mike in forum Woodworking
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-22-2006, 03:09 PM
  5. Wood screws for Oak...
    By Steve in Kemptville, On. in forum Woodworking
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-30-2001, 11:43 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •