It is time to upgrade my kitchen with new cabinets. I had a Makita 2708 8-1/4" contractor saw with the optional extension table. Although this saw could handle the job, I wanted something better. I had decided on the King KC-26FXT/i30/Deluxe when a used Unisaw and King #KC-3105C Dust Collector showed up on Kijiji. I purchased them instead and ordered the following from King through Rideout Tool and Machine Inc:
1. KST-101 Sliding Table Attachment
2. KRT-100 Router Table Attachment
3. K-1501 Tenoning Jig
4. KMB-1275 Heavy-Duty Extendable Universal Mobile Base
5. KPF-32 Power Feeder
All arrived in ten days in good condition except for the King Sliding Table Attachment (KST-101) which was damaged upon receipt. There were delays in sending me a replacement, which finally arrived one month after the return was initiated. King offered me a discount on the original Sliding Table, which accounted for some of the delay. The replacement appeared to have been dropped. Packaging of the replacement was severely damaged. On opening the package at the store, we found that the table was damaged, and several parts were missing, including the entire box containing the extension table. I declined to accept the replacement. Unwilling to wait for another replacement, I purchased Craftex version (CX200S) which Busy Bee had in stock, only two blocks away from the King dealer.
The Craftex CX200S, and King KST101 appear to be identical units in identical packaging. The only difference I found was the manual included by the two companies. The Craftex unit came with a stripped down seven page user manual, while King included a full printed manual. Busy Bee does have a full manual available on-line.
My cap's off to Mike McGraw at Rideout Tool and Machine Inc, who worked hard to get the initial order and replacement for me. I highly recommend going to both this shop, and Mike for your tool purchases in Nova Scotia. They carry far more than just King products.
Prepping the Unisaw:
The fence, motor cover, and extention tables were removed. The saw was cleaned and lubricated. A cover was cut from sheet steel, and fitted with a Universal Flange (Busy Bee #W1010) for dust collection. Critical Step: Ensure the saw is fully aligned before installing any attachments!!!
Adding the Mobile Base:
Assemby of the mobile base is straight forward. Tilting the saw allowed me to slide a couple of one inch boards under the saw to fit the base. The cam-locked wheel are at the right side of the saw, to tilt the extension table (to be added later) up when the saw is moved.
Dust and Base.jpg
Mounting the Sliding Table:
The pre-drilled mounting holes are too low on the sliding table for my Delta Unisaw. New holes needed to be drilled. This also gave me an opportunity to position the sliding table to maximize its functionality. Three and a half inches are required to mount the fence. I marked this on the slide, as well as the center of the sliding table. I then set the sliding table on top of the table saw with the blade raised one inch, to determine the best position for it. I thought mounting the sliding table so that its center was 3-1/2 inches in front of the saw's table center would be safest. A 48" sheet of plywood will be about 6 inches in front of the blade when I start the saw, and just past the center of the blade upon completion of the cut. I used my drill press and a custom fence made of scrap wood to drill the new mounting holes accurately. The sliding table was then bolted to the saw using the original bolts for the Delta left extension table.
ST on Saw.jpg
Sliding Table on Unisaw
Closeup of Center Section
ST Start of Cut.jpg
Start of 4' Cut
ST End of Cut.jpg
End of 4' Cut
ST Support Parts.jpg
New and Modified Support Parts
Three & a half inches had to be cut from the support columns. The caps are welded on, and a helical cut needed to be made in the scrap section to recover the caps. They were then welded back on the shortened columns. The heads of the bolts used for the feet were cut off to form the studs. The brackets and rail are made from 2" angle iron. The brackets bolt to the mobile base's wheel supports, and the support rail bolts onto the brackets.
ST Support Details.jpg
The outer bolts holding the wheels to the base were removed, and the support barckets installed using 1" 5/16 bolts. A nut was used to lock the stud to the endcap of the support column with 2" exposed. A second nut is used to raise the support column, and a third with a washer / lock washer under the support rail secures the column in place. I used a square to ensure that the support columns were square to the sliding table, and support rail before tightening the columns to the table. A 4 ft level was used to ensure that the sliding table was parallel to the saw's table.
ST Support System.JPG
Here's an image showing the complete support system.
Adding the Router Table:
The slots and holes in the Router table did not match those of the Unisaw. They were less than half the dimeter of the holes out, so these were filed to match.
A hole was drilled in the top of the Router table for the Ridgid router's through table height adjustment. I chose the Ridgid 2hp R29302 for this setup specificly for the ability to adjust the height through the table.
The original washers for the Delta right table were too large. The fillets of the router table prevented the bolts from seating properly. When tightened they raised the router table. The washers were ground down, then beveled to compensate for the fillets of the router table.
The fixed Ridgid router base was then clamped to the Router table using the supplied hardware.
Important Hint!: Floors in our shops are often not level. Move your saw to where you'll use it in the shop before adding any attachments that have legs extending to the floor. Level the front and rear of the saw using the adjustments of the mobile base. Check the level front to rear of the saw. If it is out by a lot, you can add spacers to the mobile base between the fixed wheels and base to bring it closer to level. Re-level the front and rear of the saw after adding spacers. Add your attachments, then mark your floor as to where the wheels and legs are on the floor. This avoids the problem of re-aligning the saw every time you pull it out to use it.
RT Prep Work.JPG
Preparing to mount the Router Table
The supplied leg was threaded to the Router table, and two pieces of scrap wood clamped to the top. These will support the table while it is fastened to the saw. This makes it a one man operation. Note that the motor cover has been rmoved from the saw to allow access to the center bolt for the Router Table. Open end wrenches must be used as there is not enough room for a socket or box wrench to fit the bolts.
RT Wood Clamped.JPG
Router Table, Ready to Install.
I decided not to cut the Unifence rail, and extend the table for its new location instead. New holes were drilled in Unifence rail and the mounting studs moved. Two inch angle iron (1/8" thick) was cut to form rails for the saw. The rails angle under the saw table, to provide support for the Router table Attachment. The front rail was drilled to match the Unifence.
The rear rail needed to be cut along its length to fit around the saw's cabinet. A 42" length of 2" angle iron was welded to the back of the rail providing an outfeed table mounting point. The rear rail was drilled to match the saw table.
Two inch angle iron, and the original Unisaw legs were used to fabricate the right leg assembly.
Three inch lengths of " X 1/8" steel bar were cut and drilled as adjustable mounts for the extension table, and outfeed tables. A 5/16 X 1.5" bolt was threaded and welded to the center of these supports.
Both front and rear tables had holes drilled in their bottoms to support the Router Table Attachment, mount the extension table, and attach the right leg assembly.
The new rails and support were coated with an epoxy paint.
1. Move the saw to the position in the shop where it will be used, and level as per instructions above.
2. Attach the router table to the saw table with the original Delta bolts and modified washers - finger tight only.
3. Attach the rails to the saw - finger tight only.
4. Attach the left legs to the rails, ensure the legs are square, and tighten.
5. Ensure that the router table is supported by its leg - not the rails.
6. Level the front and rear rails, using the adjustments on the leg assembly. Tighten bolts attaching the rails to the saw.
7. Insert the Router Table support studs through the front and rear rails. Thread a nut between the rails and Router Table. Ensure the studs are seated in the Router Table. Use these nuts to raise the Router Table slightly.
8. Remove the Router Table's leg by screwing the height adjusment in, and unscrewing the leg from the table.
9. Remove the stud for the leg from the Router Table.
10. Align the Router Table to the saw table using a dial indicator, and tighten the bolts holding the two together.
11. Use the nuts under the studs to level the Router Table with the saw table.
12. Install the washer, lock washer, and nut to the studs, under the rails, to lock the Router table in position.
Rails, legs, and Router Table Attachment Installed.
I now have enough of the saw put together to fabricate the extension, and outfeed tables. Delayed - I have to take it all apart again to align the blade with the saw table