Thread Continues Below...
here are some more pic that I think you will find intersting
A grown man can not pick this motor up and I don't care how big you are. that's a tall boy can of beer for scale. I found this Wadkin motor with wadkin pulley's the right size for the head on the machines. this never happens. and the good part is it was free, so I have the head motor. I also got the electrics out of Daves Wadkin RM he is changing to single phase, so I have a starter for a 15hp motor, the PO's rig was a joke.
the head is missing a bolt for the clam and some of the bolts don't look wadkin
this a wadkin bolt it has a round head
these are not but there is the same one on the there side for balance
just so you can get a sence of the size of the jointer i put a tall beer on the table
Now friend Arthuror Matty may be the only one that will appreciate these next pics
the rack pinon handle is diffident from my older 16" RD its ARN with more webs. it could be use as a dating tool. so this machines is i would think after world war 2 when Britain had many aluminum foundry for the war effort.
the wadkin head tool and the canting table
jointer(planner) tables crank
see next post
notice the 25 hrzs
Once you get a chance please post the picture of one of the blades. I really like to see how you get a skewed (single) blade on a jointer.
I had a 1954 Seybold-Harris 45" guillotine in the print shop with a converted 7.5 Hp 25 Hz motor. I think the changeover was '57.
Thread Continues Below...
love this machine! keep posting!
I will in the next few days upload my progress on the wadkin. I hope you enjoy the rebuild. I have worked it piece mill and it is getting there. This has got to be the biggest machine i have ever work on.
I have pull the head out of the Wadkin RM and work the cutter block.
There was a stud and plate bolt missing in the head and i did not like the looks of the others. The thing that got me the most was I needed a 48"cheater pipe to brake the nut free of the head,so they were way to tight.
there is an old saying about moulding knife bolts::::
if you turn nut over and it wont thread on the threads are stretched. Most are that way and so here is were i need help.
the forged steel plate type cutterblock is really a great head with its skewed knifes and is also able to take moulding knifes. I did get the tool(spanner) for the head bolts that has short handle ,so i would think 60 to 100lbs is all that is need on the nuts.
any care to comment?
is there a source for the studs , and what is the grade of metal/thread etc?
the ones in there now appear to be mild steel.
They BSW 5/8" by 11
The plates are tapered and so the studs lengths are long on one side and get shorter as you go across.
here is the block with the missing bolt as i got the machine
this nut does not look wadkin
this is a Wadkin nut with the rounded top.
wadkin RM 26" over under
nice bearing on this one
2 RM 12 self aliening double rowed brass cage on the drive side with a 2308 SKF to the out board
hand scraped bearing retainer cap.
the head capless
Matty a mate down under found this and i quote
Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970
got the head cleaned up and ready to store until i am ready to work the other parts.I wanted to clean the rust and look at the bearing any way. here are some pics of the workings of the wadkin plate/clam head
here you can see that the cutter block is tapered on the sides the jointer knifes plates/clam go.
the wadkin head has keyed jacking/ knife adjustment screws and you don't need the plates to to hold the knifes from slipping like the Oliver head. the stud hole is through the head and the stud bottom on a small rim on the top edge.
a set of Wadkin spent knifes(no life left) with the key slot at the back on the blade. only half of the knifes are useful in this design. the blade are about 1 1/2" wide when new. You are still able to get theses from wadkin.
i have found regular knifes placed in front of the key screw. this is very dangerous with this type head.
you have a 12" section for moulding knifes in the jointer head and it does not upset the straight knifes.
the hard wood side of the head is thinner than the softwood side of the head by about 5/8" this is what skews the knife.
hope you enjoyed the view of the Wadkin Plate type head.
there are two guards on a modern jointer. There is the stander pork chop/bridge and what I will call the back guard that covers the head when the fence is move over the table. Most old jointer don,t have the main and very little have a back guard.The wakin RM never had the back guard and so I made one.
A safety guard has to do 3 things to be of any use.
1 The most important is protect the operator from the cutter head.
2 be easy to adjust and not be in the way of the machines function as it was designed to preform.
3 be easy to remove for assess to the cutter head.
it can than look good if you want .
I have 26" of head to cover at any given time and I wanted to be able to adjust while the machine was running. Most back guards are attached to the fence and so I designed mine to do the same. I simply welded a simple rod and bracket that screwed in taped holes to the fence base for my guard to attach.
Because the table slide in and out to open the cutter block for moulding my guard needed this adjustment as-well.
I made it from aluminum and copper to keep it light but strong.
adjustment for sliding in and out
fully extended to 26"
fence tip 45 drgs
making progress on the motor too. but there are to many pic so see next post.
It's about time you came back and updated this thread Jack....
It was getting to the point where I was going to do it for you...lol
Thread Continues Below...
In a few day I will have more than you have seen elsewhere posted here. I want to add to the OWWM ARN content here. I hope to show more the reason I like the old stuff. Hoping to get more to turn RUST JUNKIE and on to the path of enlightenment.
The motor I got for the Wadkin RM is Not a Wadkin Motor. I needed a footed motor to drive the head and This 3 phase 5 HP baby should do a fine job of it. It is most likely off an old band saw based on the bearings . It's got open deep grooved ball bearing set in the bells. One great features to these type motors is the grease bled at the bottom so you can't over grease and the old grease stays out of the motor winding. This motor should last forever for what I am using it for. They say it is wise to change the bearing when you got things apart ,but I have had good luck determining if bearing are good or not by running and looking in side. So far I have only been off once. I must have saved $2000 so far in the rebuild once I started checking the bearing in stead of just changing them because they were old. Most if not all the bearing I am talking about were open . I have never found good old sealed bearing.
the motor after a test run on power.
theses bearing looked a sound great and pressure on the shaft had no play. I cleaned the old grease out that was in general good looking . It was not hard or soapafied.
The fan end bell of the motor had a neat mesh grill to keep shaving out of the motor. It was neat but not up to what I wanted and thought it looked not all that great. It got filed away under G. I made my own at the drill press with some scrap sheet stock.more on that later.
So really all and all the rebuilding of this Motor was just maintenance and was ready to go to work.
For purely atheistic reasons I paint things at this point and like to add what i call an artistic licence. My restoration are what I think they should be and so I indulge myself. I find Machinery in it original state boring and drab and like to hot rod some things.If you like original look away
The motor finished
Your work is insanely clean and nice! Looking at your restoration thread is among the most fascinating tool magazines (including the new ones) I've seen.
The wadkin RM had some rust on it but everything moves,and I did not have time last winter to do any major work on it ;( When one gets a new toy it hard to leave them alone). I had been taking small parts off it this winter and working the machine peace meal.
The bridge Guard is a UK design and there are differences over the American pork chop guard . i was very lucky to have this still with the machine. You thing pork chop guards are hard to find try finding a UK bridge guard? Any way the guard was riveted together and to clean it the old rivets had to come out. I made new ones with carage head bolts turned down.
made a new handle and add spring load to the end plate . The chain for the counter wight is made of tin with bronzes pins. I just love how picky the Brits are/were.
the counter wight was missing and i am using the one i made for my Band saw. it's filled with sand and this time i want to use lead Shot.
Can you still get lead shot at the sport camping store/gun shop. I am not a hunter so I would not know. Does it cost a lot for say 5 lbs. Or are there any other sources for lead that are cheep?
there will be an opening in the counter weight of about 3/4".
the rusty RM
new handle with spring load end
bronze /tin chain for counter weight
the home made counter that I would like to fill with shot and make smaller.
You got to love machines that were made before plastic and tin/sheet metal was common.
The control station is solid bronzes cast. Wadkin painted it gray and I just could not do it. looks like a traffic light don't ya think?
out of practice on my lettering.LOL
i did find a Brooks feed motor for $30.
i started working the bed and what to most people looks bad just needs a shave. For old rusted tables I like to give them a shave.I buy my straight raisers in boxes of 100. took about an hour.
i pulled the bed rollers and checked the bearing. they were gone and because they are not to easily serviced I replaced them with rubber sealed SKF. $100.
the serrated infeed and smooth outfeed and bed rollers went to a metal lathe to bring them back in spec. I know the guy so $30 but a proshop should only charge an hours labor.
the blocks that hold the cutter head and rollers/ pressure bars are all cleaned up and the plain bearings for the rollers were in great shape. Steel in cast "ARN" with oil channels cut in the bearing like in Babbitt. there is a hole left from the hold downs spring rod that leaves a hole for the bearings oil and the ways are cut from there. should I and a piece of felt?
bearing were gone on the motor and new sealed SKF $30 bearing were instaled. it look like a rewind had be done. If you have never experienced how smooth a 3 phase motors run watch the video.
Thread Continues Below...
Took the Presures Bars out of The Wadkin RM . The infeed side was worn in the middle as is always the case. I want to get this thing tuned in when I get it all painted . I like to do the machinery side of thing first. I find it easy to work the with the small parts and after all the mechanical is repaired i jump in and jackifie.
the chip breaker and pressures bars on ether side of the Wadkin RM head
starting with the chip breaker
its was out about 3/32"
made a simple sled for the disk sander
milled chip breaker
If you don't have a disk sander I bet it on your list now
I'd post my true thoughts, on your project, but would probably be banned for the pornographic analogies. Let's just leave it at "I like what I see".
Lead shot... another option is to melt down some used tire weights.
I look forward to the day that I have the time.
Thanks for the update! Love the thread.
Any more shots of the making of the guard? That would be cool to see how you did that.
meanwhile, I like that guard, but the black star knob on the top seems a little out of place to me. Have you thought of some nice turned wood, maybe something like this?