Last night I got all my pieces down to 3/8", so this morning I was able to get the final machining done to make my T&G for the back.
First thing to do was to rip the stock into my widths that I will need.
Five pieces at 1 7/8", one at 2" and one at 2 1/4" for each section.
I put my groove in first with just my rip blade in.
Two passes to make sure the groove is centered.
Last thing to do is to knock the 1/16" off the tongue side. Router table won't work for this.
For this I have a couple of options.
First is to do all the pieces with a block plane.
If there were just a couple of pieces I would do this but with 24 pieces we will set the table saw up which is my second option.
With my blade tipped over to 45 degrees and just barely protruding we send a couple of test pieces through to get the correct set up.
And after these have gone through I have all my T&G made.
As I am only working with 3/8" stock my width had to be only 1 5/8" wide.
With the narrow width of each board the 1/8" reveal fits in nicely.
Now a little test fit and these 28 pieces will get pre- stained.
Last edited by Gary Zimmel; 07-21-2012 at 04:48 PM.
With a little extra shop time today I got my T&G sanded and got to do a test fit of the back.
Everything has gone to plan and she fits like a glove.
First and last pieces are made a tad narrow to allow for wood movement.
Now we get to knock everything down and do a little staining....
The next couple of nights will be finishing my staining.
I find on a project like this it's a lot easier to stain all the parts and then put it back together.
Now is when I finally see how my board selection has turned out.
All in all pretty good I'm thinking.
The two stiles were from one piece that had lots of ray fleck.
Panels have very little ray fleck so they don't compete with the other pieces.
As I have been staining I've been watching for any bleeding that happens.
In these pieces I have had a couple of spots that have bled.
Nothing ruins your day like a dried stain run on a nice chunk of wood....That you find next morning.
Typically one would build a face frame to complete the front to make sure there is no edge or end grain showing.
Being that my face is only 3/4" and I want everything real nice and tight I am adding the final trim after the hutch has been glued up.
Biggest thing I have to watch for is glue squeeze out.
This we can't have as we now are working on finish stained parts or finish sanded parts.
Would be a real task to get into some of the nooks and crannies to sand any glue spots now....
To make sure I don't have any squeeze out I put a cross cut blade in the table saw and have 1/16" of the blade exposed.
I couple passes through the saw and I have channels to catch the glue...
OK I'm curious. Why did you do the cross pieces before the vertical. I would have done them vertical then horizontal. That way I am cutting the horizontals to length which is pretty easy. I know if you put the cabinet on its side then they are reversed so what's the difference. But anyway I learn from all your posts so i am just curious. Great idea for the squeeze-out by the way.
Next on my agenda will be to make the two doors.
I was considering having a glass panel with a leaded design made for me.
However I don't want to wait 4-5 weeks to have them made or pay the 200 bucks a panel.
So we will do the doors with mutton bars that will give us six small glass panels on each door.
I'm thinking it will still add some interest and a little elegance to the piece.
Finally got a couple of shop sessions in to get my hutch doors started.
With these having the mutton bars in them the process is a tad different for me than a straight flat panel.
My stock is down to final thickness and rails, stiles and bars cut to length.
Next was to do the mortises that are 3/4" deep for the rails to fit into.
1/4" bit in the mortiser that is set to the 1/4" grooves and in short order we have the holes for the main tenons.
I use the table saw again for the tenons. Test piece gets me dialed in for a snug fit.
As I did the mortises I had them set back 1/4" to accept the haunched tenons.
We will use this method to make sure we have a clean edge where the tenon goes into the mortise.
As the haunch matches the width of the groove I can use the table saw to do the haunched tenons.
If the shelf is adjustable it can be set so it won't be hidden behind one of the cross pieces. I made a corner cabinet years ago with a fixed shelf that was not directly behind a cross piece. It was deliberate and it doesn't bother me, but my wife thinks it is a mistake. Just food for thought. Great work as always.