I plan to move from my basement shop to our attached garage, as my wife needs more room for her work and will be taking over the basement shop space.
It will be great for me as well, I will almost be doubling my shop size. I plan to have it wired and then I will insulate,drywall and paint the floor.
I plan to heat it with propane and I had thought of a radiant tube style heater but I think it would be pushing the allowable clearances if I wanted to bring in a vehicle and also be in my way for dust collection.
So I am now looking at the Hot Dawg heater made by Modine, I see a few people like them and I was curious if the shop dust effects them or not. Also is there much difference in efficiency between the tube style and the Hot Dawg.
The shop is 24x32 x9' 6" to the bottom of the trusses and 2x4 walls.There are 3 insulated doors 2- 7'x10' and one 8'x8.' I was considering the 60.000 btu model heater.
John.. I have a 1400 sq ft shop with a 135,000 btu radiant tube running on propane. It is costing about $280 a month to heat. I will be switching to Natural gas this summer and expect it to cost half of what propane is. I have the thermostat set at 12 during the day and down to about 5 at night.I was told by the propane sales rep that propane was about 10 % more than Nat. gas. It seemed good at the time but I should have done a little more research on cost of gas vs propane. I have a friend with a similiar heater to what you are looking at and it heats a double car garage really quick and is quite comfortable.Some have an enclosed burn chamber which draws its air for combustion from outside.These are a little more money and you avoid any concerns with fires. My friend has the other type and it works fine. Just keep an eye on it to make sure a lot of sawdust does not collect on it.
John, I would be inclined to go with the radiant tube. I installed mine last fall; I have kept the garage at about 20 degrees since Christmas and it only cost about $25/month to run (natural gas, double car garage).
Clearance from the bottom of the tubes to combustibles is 48". If you install it at a 45° angle, you should be fine bringing in the car. The residential heater is only 10' long anyway. I am fortunate that my ceiling is almost 12' high; the heater is well off the floor.
I was looking at the Hot Dawg as well. Problem I found was it is a forced air heater. Putting that up in the ceiling will really only blow hot air around above your head. I was also concerned about dust going through the air exchanger.
Hi Jim. I recently built a 25x25 shop with a 10' ceiling and just went throught the first winter. If you are reworking the shop before moving I would also consider enclosing the ceiling, more insulation and a fan.
In my shop I had the ceiling and walls closed and plenty of insulation put in and then covered with a vapour barrier and then OSB on top. This combined with a fan to ensure air circulation has resulted in requiring only a small electric heater to maintain temperature while not in the shop. Yes, a small $40 electric cube heater coupled with the fan easily maintained the temperature at 60 degrees F. Only in the dead of February did I require to turn on the main heat which is a standard $70 220 electric contractors heater and this was only when I was in the shop.
I have perhaps spent an additional $100-$200 on heat this winter.
John, first of all if you go with flame heat (propane or natural gas) you really need to go with direct venting for both the intake (combustion air) and the exhaust. Go with me for the reasons.
You have the opportunity to make yourself a nice comfy shop that should require very little heating, if you do it right. That means you need to do two things. The first, and most obvious, is as much insulation as you can reasonably put in, in the walls and the ceiling.
The second is to stop the infiltration as much as possible with a vapor barrier that has as few holes in it as possible. It should be sealed with Acousti-Seal to the top and bottom wall plates and around the doors and windows.
You also need to do your best to insulate and seal up around the overhead door(s), for the same reasons.
If you do all of that, and do it right, you will have a very comfy workspace. Since it's a garage with overhead doors, there's little danger of getting the space too airtight for shop use.
But this creates a problem for a flame heat source. First, it needs lots of air for combustion. If you did your job and sealed the space reasonably well from air infiltration, there will not be enough air infiltration for "make-up" air - to replace the oxygen that the heating unit is burning to heat the space.
This will kill you.
Second, from the propane or natural gas you burn, the exhaust is H2O -- nearly a gallon of water for every gallon of fuel burned. If you have a reasonably airtight space, you can create significant humidity problems for yourself. That's not good for the wood or the metal.
I use a 4800W/240V electrical construction heater in my 18' x 32' x 9'6" shop and it's more than enough.
I'm not trying to talk you into a particular solution. I just want to be sure you check very carefully before you decide on your final solution. And be sure it's not a really final solution.